chain tension - pedal play
11-16-10, 09:36 AM
#26
Your cog is slipping.
This. The one I had barely looked like the edges were machined at all. I believe it was an older one though. Weren't the older Surly cogs considered to be more problematic?
11-16-10, 09:57 AM
#27
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Yes. They were machined incorrectly, such that the tooth pitch (spacing) was off. I replaced mine with a Dura Ace, which completely solved the problem. Although the newer Surly cogs may be ok, I can't see paying more for them when the less expensive Dura Ace cogs are just as good if not better. For cogs larger than 16T, Soma is golden.
11-16-10, 10:19 AM
#28
Your cog is slipping.
I thought so. Thanks TT.
Right now I'm using an EAI Superstar and it's amazingly quiet.
Right now I'm using an EAI Superstar and it's amazingly quiet.
11-16-10, 11:06 AM
#29
Senior Member
Yes. They were machined incorrectly, such that the tooth pitch (spacing) was off. I replaced mine with a Dura Ace, which completely solved the problem. Although the newer Surly cogs may be ok, I can't see paying more for them when the less expensive Dura Ace cogs are just as good if not better. For cogs larger than 16T, Soma is golden.
11-17-10, 02:53 AM
#30
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you want the chain to move at LEAST a half inch total, back and forth when pressing and pulling on it in the center of the chain. when you're stopped, you want the pedals to move a small amount. the amount will change depending on your gear ratio and how much slack you actually have.
if you're running a 1/8 chain and cog and chainring you'll be just fine if you have as much as an inch or more of slack, even if the pedals move a ton while tensioning the top or the bottom part of the chain. if you have 3/32 components or you are using a ramped ring, you want hardly any slack at all. a track chain and track components won't derail even with tons of slack, say, two inches total. a ramped chainring and an 8 speed chain will derail at the slightest provocation with even a half inch of slack.
if you're running a 1/8 chain and cog and chainring you'll be just fine if you have as much as an inch or more of slack, even if the pedals move a ton while tensioning the top or the bottom part of the chain. if you have 3/32 components or you are using a ramped ring, you want hardly any slack at all. a track chain and track components won't derail even with tons of slack, say, two inches total. a ramped chainring and an 8 speed chain will derail at the slightest provocation with even a half inch of slack.
11-18-10, 06:53 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Cog, chainring, and chain came today. Just got done swapping it. 1st time doing this, hope I did it right haha. Greased up the threads, put the cog on fairly tight didn't crank as hard as I could, bottomed it and then gave it a bit more. Lockring though I exerted myself.
Should be cool, will check the chainring bolts and lockring in a few days.
But the drivetrain is silent. I mean you can still the gears meshing in a silent room. But when riding just hear the tires, no vibrations in my foot, no popping or cracks when climbing or pushing hard. It's nice. Very smooth. And the surly chainring looks pretty sweet.
Got the half link in there too, so have plenty of clearance with those 35's which is how this all started. Happy it's all taken care of. Thanks for the help.
Should be cool, will check the chainring bolts and lockring in a few days.
But the drivetrain is silent. I mean you can still the gears meshing in a silent room. But when riding just hear the tires, no vibrations in my foot, no popping or cracks when climbing or pushing hard. It's nice. Very smooth. And the surly chainring looks pretty sweet.
Got the half link in there too, so have plenty of clearance with those 35's which is how this all started. Happy it's all taken care of. Thanks for the help.
11-18-10, 09:25 AM
#32
Senior Member
Make sure your cog is sufficiently tight. It really doesn't matter how much you tighten your lockring if the cog isn't tight enough. If the cog slips forward the lockring will simultaneously become loose.
11-18-10, 02:27 PM
#34
Senior Member
I have always tightened my cogs with this method....https://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm.
It has never failed me...meaning, I have never stripped a hub, nor has a cog or lockring ever slipped. If you try this, don't overdo it...you can generate way more torque this way than you can with a wrench. Also helps to wrap your BB with a rag so you don't scratch it.
It has never failed me...meaning, I have never stripped a hub, nor has a cog or lockring ever slipped. If you try this, don't overdo it...you can generate way more torque this way than you can with a wrench. Also helps to wrap your BB with a rag so you don't scratch it.
11-18-10, 02:33 PM
#35
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^^ Same. I actually like to keep an old chain around for this purpose so I don't have to worry about stretching the one I ride. Not sure if it's even necessary, but gives me peace of mind.
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