Singlespeed build parts list.. Thoughts?
#51
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Memphis, TN
Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210
Yeah, you'll need a flip flop hub if you'd like to have both a freewheel and a fixed cog option. I would imagine that more than 80% of everyone on this forum is riding on formula hubs, which are flip flop. Getting these wheels would cut your budget down significantly, and would still provide a quality ride. That you want a single speed option is the kind of information that we need to suggest parts to you though.
#52
#53
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I dig those.. I should've reiterated that its for a single speed build. I tried to be specific in the thread header.
Yeah, you'll need a flip flop hub if you'd like to have both a freewheel and a fixed cog option. I would imagine that more than 80% of everyone on this forum is riding on formula hubs, which are flip flop. Getting these wheels would cut your budget down significantly, and would still provide a quality ride. That you want a single speed option is the kind of information that we need to suggest parts to you though.
#54
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
#56
If you have time:
Order a nice set of hubs: I suggest getting the Arvon hubs, advertised on the buysell, for riding around the city they are light and will last forever.
Rims: If you like the DT swiss ones, go for it. Otherwise I am really a fan of openpros.
Stem: you dont need some fancy track specific stem for on the streets, find a cheap stem, upgrade later
Handlebars: your choice
Seatpost: Miche supertype seatpost is cool and affordable, but you can probably find a nice vintage aero seatpost (Old campy ones are nice, I sold one for 50 bucks so I know they can be found afforably and cleaned up)
Seat: If you like the brooks, do it. for me, I like somthing lower profile.
Order a nice set of hubs: I suggest getting the Arvon hubs, advertised on the buysell, for riding around the city they are light and will last forever.
Rims: If you like the DT swiss ones, go for it. Otherwise I am really a fan of openpros.
Stem: you dont need some fancy track specific stem for on the streets, find a cheap stem, upgrade later
Handlebars: your choice
Seatpost: Miche supertype seatpost is cool and affordable, but you can probably find a nice vintage aero seatpost (Old campy ones are nice, I sold one for 50 bucks so I know they can be found afforably and cleaned up)
Seat: If you like the brooks, do it. for me, I like somthing lower profile.
#57
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I found these wheels for the same price.. They both seem like good deals. Is there any reason to go with 36h over 32h? Or to go with open pros over pure aero, besides the fact that I've never heard of them.
Yeah, you'll need a flip flop hub if you'd like to have both a freewheel and a fixed cog option. I would imagine that more than 80% of everyone on this forum is riding on formula hubs, which are flip flop. Getting these wheels would cut your budget down significantly, and would still provide a quality ride. That you want a single speed option is the kind of information that we need to suggest parts to you though.
#58
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
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From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
36h rims are stronger than 32h rims.
I would have no problem putting those "Pure Aero" wheels on my junk beater frame.
I would not put those wheels on my $700 frame.
"Pure" is a brand no one has ever heard of. The rims are probably made by the same factory workers that make some fancy rims, but we'll never know. You're taking a bit of a gamble on build quality, which doesn't seem necessary given your budget.
I might be tempted to contact someone like this guy: https://www.psimet.com/
Regarding a fully tailored hand built wheelset. I don't know how his pricing works first hand, but I imagine he could work with you in your price range.
I would have no problem putting those "Pure Aero" wheels on my junk beater frame.
I would not put those wheels on my $700 frame.
"Pure" is a brand no one has ever heard of. The rims are probably made by the same factory workers that make some fancy rims, but we'll never know. You're taking a bit of a gamble on build quality, which doesn't seem necessary given your budget.
I might be tempted to contact someone like this guy: https://www.psimet.com/
Regarding a fully tailored hand built wheelset. I don't know how his pricing works first hand, but I imagine he could work with you in your price range.
#59
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That's pretty much what I figured.. but had to ask
Is there a preferred spoke count for city riding? My LBS said they would never put out a 28h wheel because it wouldn't hold up in the city and recommended at least 32h.
Is there a preferred spoke count for city riding? My LBS said they would never put out a 28h wheel because it wouldn't hold up in the city and recommended at least 32h.
36h rims are stronger than 32h rims.
I would have no problem putting those "Pure Aero" wheels on my junk beater frame.
I would not put those wheels on my $700 frame.
"Pure" is a brand no one has ever heard of. The rims are probably made by the same factory workers that make some fancy rims, but we'll never know. You're taking a bit of a gamble on build quality, which doesn't seem necessary given your budget.
I might be tempted to contact someone like this guy: https://www.psimet.com/
Regarding a fully tailored hand built wheelset. I don't know how his pricing works first hand, but I imagine he could work with you in your price range.
I would have no problem putting those "Pure Aero" wheels on my junk beater frame.
I would not put those wheels on my $700 frame.
"Pure" is a brand no one has ever heard of. The rims are probably made by the same factory workers that make some fancy rims, but we'll never know. You're taking a bit of a gamble on build quality, which doesn't seem necessary given your budget.
I might be tempted to contact someone like this guy: https://www.psimet.com/
Regarding a fully tailored hand built wheelset. I don't know how his pricing works first hand, but I imagine he could work with you in your price range.
#60
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
Likes: 0
From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
How much do you weigh?
For a commuter / city rider there really isn't any reason to go less than 36h except for aesthetic reasons, but to say no 28h wheel will "hold up" is a bit over the top. A properly built 28h wheel with a strong rim will be plenty strong.
For a commuter / city rider there really isn't any reason to go less than 36h except for aesthetic reasons, but to say no 28h wheel will "hold up" is a bit over the top. A properly built 28h wheel with a strong rim will be plenty strong.
#61
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140pds.. I don't think I'd be putting too much pressure on em'
#62
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
32 will be fine. You could go lower, but I don't see any reason to. If your LBS can't build a 28 spoke wheel that will hold up to city riding, you might want to have your wheels built elsewhere.
#63
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Oh ya at this point I don't think I'll be having wheels built.. Just trying to gauge what the ideal wheel spoke count is.
#64
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,866
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 82 wheels
Buddy, you are overthinking this. It really doesn't matter that much. Just find some quality wheels that are hand built with name brand spokes and rims. Velomine or whatever.
#65
モㄥ工匕モ 爪モ爪乃モ尺
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: LA San Gabriel, California
Bikes: Custom frame
+1 on velomine. You can pick up a philwood or a durace for around 500-400
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=751
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=751
#69
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Hahaha.. I figured but.. Better than just assuming and finding out the hard way, right? Probably not.
#70
Buy some reasonable wheels...dont' worry about the spoke count. As you ride you'll discover what works best for you and what doesn't. Its impossible to get everything right the first time.
#73
Bike Hoarder
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Bikes: 80's Graecross Courier Fixie, 2010 Bauer Suburban, 1988 Thruster 300 Volt BMX
What's really funny is that I've overheard the owner of the shop where I work as a seasonal tech tell customers that when it comes to bikes and bike parts, everything bought online are factory seconds and that's why you should always pay the extra and buy from a shop. The worst part is that some people actually fall for it.
and i was thinking of getting a set of straps
#74
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
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From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
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