http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...62711027_n.jpg

Got these AC 420s in on Friday, really stoked, super smooth bearings and way stiffer than what was on the bike.
Drug it up to Dallas to do the open track at EDS and ended up not being able to get out there before I left. not so stoked about that.

Looks great! Labels match the frame decals (though I always prefer de-labeled wheels).

awww how cute. you fellas wanna play with me again. sorry chums, this monkey don't dance no more.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/WinkKiss.gif

It was an honest question :/ I know plenty of people that are odd body geometry.

Based on the pictures from the WDYLL thread he's got long legs, long arms and a bike that's too small.

Mostly right.

http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/r...7/b13b0707.jpg

Impressive wingspan.

The bike doesn't feel too small to me. When you ride a 61cm/62cm/63cm bike it can be a bit cumbersome. Unwieldy even.
And since I'm not a strong muscular manly man, I don't mind "slightly smaller" (rather than risk going too big).
That way I end up with a bike that I can manage, rather than a bike I have to struggle with.

:lol:

Good one.

I wish there was a way to get video of me riding, so that you guys could point out exactly what indicators you see that show you my bike is too small for me. I know the seatpost is kind of high up, but I'd still have to have you watch me ride before I would buy into your diagnosis 100%. I know you guys know your stuff, but I'd still prefer someone be able to see me on the bike before I put too much stock in their analysis.

Is there anything I can watch for myself? Something that would be a surefire indicator that my bike is way too small for me? I don't have any soreness or discomfort or anything weird (afaik).

Pain usually means something is off, but fitment is sometimes something you don't realize is off until you finally ride something that fits correctly.

Easiest way would be to try a handy dandy fit calculator and compare it to the dimensions of your bike.

I'm sure Jaytron will point you to a fit calculator he knows of but off the bat here are my observations and things you should watch for:

-You're stem and bars are pointing to the sky, which seems strange since you have long arms. I know Brooks saddles favor a more 'upright' position so maybe that's why?
-While not excessive, you have a decent amount of spacers under your stem (basically just same as the above).
-What angle is your back, typically when you ride?

Things to watch out for that tell you your fit is too small:
-Your arms should aways be bent while riding. Something like 150* is a good medium bend, 90* when full aero mode (like when you're riding into a headwind).
-When you do this, does your torso feel cramped? Knees hitting your arms/chest?
-You diaphragm should be open and breathing deep shouldn't be a problem. Are you able to keep your back straight while doing this or do you have to 'hunch'? If you have to hunch, your frame is too small.
-It's hard to tell but it looks like your saddle is as far back on the rails as it can go (could just be the way Brooks are though, I'm not super familiar with them).

Honestly trying to help here.

It's not just too small, you've also got it set-up too small as well. The major thing is that your forward-most hand position is not over the front wheel contact point. Bigger bikes almost always need longer stems, even with bullhorns.

Short, high-rise stem.

If those bricks are close to a standard length your saddle is 10cm+ behind the BB. Which is a lot, even for your height.

You've got a very upright looking bike without upright-bike geometry, handlebars or stem length. Also, big bikes look weird anyway, which is what most people are actually commenting on, they just don't know it.

Post a pic of you actually on the bike. That's going to blow people's minds.

Those fitment calculators can be such a pain to find anyway.

Someone should make a website where you can search for anything you can think of. Even if that sort of thing did exist, I wouldn't even know what to search for.

Surely such a thing doesn't exist.















Since Jay is slackin'

Wow! I never noticed that Lagers have such a slack head tube angle.

Anyone care to explain those red/yellow lines a bit more please?

Also, to be fair, even though I did eventually ask a fitment question... it was you all who began the bike's too small talk. I was just sharing the pic because I think it's neat and I took it today. (Today I)

Thanks Jandro and Spoonrobot and all for taking the time to reply with useful info. Much appreciated.

I'll try to get the wife to snap some pics while I ride around a bit. Maybe that will help shed some more light on this. I'm shocked that the bike is so obviously too small for me haha all this time I've been riding around feeling like a badass but unknowingly looking like a dumbass. :(

Yellow is current positioning, or in the case of your handlebars; where I assume your current positioning is.

Red is where I think things should be for a proper, semi-aggressive/Cat 6 set-up.

Essentially:

• Larger frame.
• Saddle moved forward.
• Longer top tube.
• Longer head tube.
• Higher stem.
• Longer stem.
• Flatter stem.
• Better forward hand position.

You don't look like a dumbass, you look like the vast majority of riders who set themselves in a comfortable position, get used to it and never re-evaluate once they get stronger and more flexible. Don't change anything based on what BFSSFGbros post, go to a shop or have someone check you out in person before making changes. Then make one change at a time, give yourself time to adapt and go from there.

It's taken me the better part of 6 months to get my fitment really nailed down and it's a continuing work in progress.

I never get "thanks" for recommending a fitment calculator, when it is the single most important tool when determining fitment.

72 for all sizes. Prolly how he gets away with a 60mm stem and no posts about the bike being darty and hard to ride.

Go get your bike fitted and see whats up. but before you do flip the stem and send pics to slamthatstem for laughs or whatever.

Mine is a year or two newer than his, and I'm fairly certain it is less relaxed than that.

Wrong. The most important (and accurate) tool is asking what size Kilo you should get on the internet based on your jeans inseam.

@SpoonRobot - thanks again man. that's mighty nice of you to outline all that for me, even after I was a jerk to you in the past.
@Jaytron - thanks for the fitment calc. there. happy?
@Mcrusspants - not 60mm, 75mm. ;) (stock was 80mm fyi). is darty bad? i can easily make quick last second adjustments on the fly (potholes, debris, etc)
@Bryan - pics?

Fitment Calc - I did try to use one of these awhile back when you guys first suggested it to me. I was put off by the amount of info required. I have no idea what the length of my last toenail clippings were, etc. haha, I'm sure it's a great tool and I do plan to use it but I have to wait until I have a team together to measure all that for me. Very involved.

There is no time or space, only... Kilo TT.

You need a team of one person equipped with a tape measure.

Scrod, not trying to be argumentitive but I think it might be helpful to have a helper...
Might be hard to keep your back straight against the wall while you also do the measuring? Not impossible, just easier with help. I'll recruit the wife.

Trunk
Sit on a stool with your back straight and your pelvis hard against the wall. Make sure your back is straight and your pelvis is against the wall. Place the level on top of your AC (Acromioclavicular) joint and against the wall. The AC is the bony bump on top of your shoulder. Measure from the bottom of the level to the top of the stool. Measure both sides of your body and average the measurements.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/im...asure_ex_2.jpg

Dude, I'm saying you need one person in addition to yourself.