I just replaced the 1" threaded fork on one of my road bikes with a 1" threadless setup, featuring nashbar carbon fork (only $99!).

It has several advantages:
1) Lightens up the front end
2) Stiffens up the front end
3) Makes the cockpit components more comparable with my other bike, which is 1.125" threadless.

Did you really have to ask that question?

What you're getting at is: is it worth it.

I'm gonna go with no.

I'm a rider in the same weight range as you, and wouldn't go down that low. I have personal experience with a set of xr270's at 24/28. They were a good build, I trust the builder, but even they went out of true slightly more than I would like.

If I was you, I would veer clear of of 20/24 AND the flimsy xr200's. Just my two cents. I do tend do be pretty hard on my equipment, so take that for what it's worth I guess.

So tell me what you really think?

Yes, I was hoping, and likely foolishly, for someone to tell me that such a light build would not fall apart under me.

Thanx for your reply, I will take it seriously.

Hope to hear from others too...

Switching bars is a hell of a lot easier with a threadless stem than it is with a quill.

No because threadless is ****ing ugly. Besides if you arent having issues with stiffness or you arent a weight weenie no need. a nice quill and lugged fork will always look better than a threadless setup and perform just fine.

Totally:

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/all-city-...e-19171_13.jpg

:rolleyes:

ew.

In the interest of fairness in the quill stem vs "threadless is ****ing ugly" debate, could you please post an equally nice pic of your Raleigh track bike's quill stem?

Until then, and please keep in mind that I am a lousy photographer - here is my poor attempt at picturing a daily ridden quill stem...

http://i58.tinypic.com/x4j886.jpg

You get to put cool topcaps on threadless stems tho

http://i.imgur.com/tUzJNhgl.jpg

stupid file too large ****.
http://www.pedalroom.com/p/for-sale-...os-2197_21.jpg
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=407613
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=407614
then there is this
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ill-stems.html

really... that is super ugly, its bulky looking and not smooth at all. I get that threadless is superior but threaded works just fine for your average cyclist and isnt ugly.

and yes you should really do a side by side comparison with pictures from your raleigh and that bike.


Quill stem/threaded setups are elegant while doing what are intended to do just fine while threadless stems/setups are function over form.

Of course that bike you quoted is 1-1/8" and most 1-1/8" quills are pretty ugly. Maybe you could find a sweet old Dean 1-1/8" quill if lucky, but then you could only run 25.4 bars. :)

I don't think I would. Pretty steady supply of Cinelli 1a stems and Cinelli 66 and 64 bars around here.

As nice as these parts are, I don't find thomson stems all that ttractive, especially the x4. CK headsets are beautiful. Spacers are not.

Yeah, proper bike fit is overrated.

Absolutely not what I said. I said spacers don't look good.

Should I get 38mm or 50mm carbon rims for the BMC. I'm going to put the wheels currently on it, back on the old leader frame and build that up for my brother since it's just been sitting around in the garage gathering dust.

As it is now http://i.imgur.com/VQUNi1i.jpg

I like the way my threadless stem looks:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=407857

That thing needs gears.

I say 38

Kinlin XR19W?

Agh, someone beat me to it.

Gears are for people over 45, or at least that's what the sub-forum thingy says. I went with 50s. Hopefully they aren't too gaudy looking. They down tube is 48mm so the rims should blend well hopefully.

Next question is which rear hub.
The low flange Novatec hub at 217g (actually already in the mail because this is a tough to find hub and I'll use it eventually): http://katalog.bikeboard.pl/katalog2...nt-a266sbt.jpg
or visually one of my favorite track hubs of all time which is 290g. Found a guy with a few NOS for not too much (he has the blue, red, and silver in stock. Which color): http://content.mtbr.com/images/Trade.../prodimg12.jpg
Can I even use the cane creek hub or does the rim need to be drilled with a smaller hole since the spoke flange is at the top?

No, you need the straight pull spokes with hex nuts that are specific to those hubs. The rims are the same as any other ones.

Yar I know that. I have a couple sources for the nipples, a bit expensive but not too hard to find. Just wasn't sure if the head of a spoke was large enough not to just pull through a normal sized rim hole.

The head of the spoke is just like a normal nipple. The difference is that instead of inserting the spokes through the hub flanges first and then threading them into the rim with nipples, you insert them into the rim first and then attach them to the hub with the hex nuts.

Should I trade my *very used* but just trued & tensioned Open Pros w/ bianchi sealed hubs +$50 for some new H+Son Archetypes with formula hubs?

I would do that.

where you find? i want haz.

Going to convert my Shogun to SS and make it my main commuter. All I really need is a single freewheel, real saddle, and a chainring (running Biopace at the moment), but I want to replace the ugly cockpit too. Should I go drops and be classy or risers and be townie? Probably going quill stem either way.

http://i.imgur.com/qQ2aQtw.jpg

Thank goodness you're going with a quill stem :thumb:. Class it up with some drops.