Understood. That's kinda what I thought but I've seen suggestions on the web to grease them to prevent seizing and creaking. Thanks for the clarification.

Alternatively, just get the proper size stem/clamp/bars and you don't have to worry about it at all.

Also, then you can swap bars around later down the line.

I switch between Nitto B176 drops (26mm clamp) and B302AA townie bars (25.4) on my Bare Knuckle, making the shim quite useful.

Should I put my two week notice in today and hope for a real job at a real bike shop next summer?

Good plan.

(woulda just bought 26.0 bars but Nitto RB010AA only come in 25.4)

There's nothing wrong with shims. 31.8mm is what I usually aim for with my choice of stem when avail. and I have a collection of shims to use interchangeably need be. After all, shims are ~$10 a set (minus nitto's obviously) vs. a stems that cost a whole lot more.

They kinda make me feel dirty. I'd prefer a clean/direct fit (eventually).
Hard to believe six tenths of a mm can cause such a ruckus.

should i:

aquarack
+
mash bottles x2

or

iZumi Quest shorts
+
iZumi Quest jersey

or

Deda RHM 02
+
Deda Zero-01 stem

want drops so bad but want longer rides so bad too..decisions decisions...

if you don't have shorts, that's the most important thing for longer rides imo

shorts > bars > bottle holder > stem > jersey > boutique bottle

i think the most important thing for longer rides is cash or a card that works. then you just ride. ride until you need to stop to eat or drink or get a bus back because you have nothing left.

get alluh that stuff AFTER you start realizing which is worse- your taint or your sweat glands.

ive been using that system for a while and its been alright but im interested in doing some rides where there isnt a lot of estabishments, most of the time i ride close enough to water fountains

though i think the shorts/jersey option might win, my taint region started to go numb at the 50 mile mark last week and that was kinda scary

wish the road shoes i wanted were cheaper too ..

feel like running a brake tonight for Mass but I don't have any levers at the moment.

Should I do just one cross lever? or one cane creek scr-5? or two cane creek scr 5?

i'm kind of playing with the possibility of having hoods on my bike all the time even though i ride brakeless

one hood looks dumb

its all dumb, buy a car

here's a pic of me and my new truck

no jorts?

one hood would only be for occasions like critical mass

I ran my Kagero with no brakes and two hoods. The hand position is super nice. I see no reason not to run hoods if you're running road drops, brakes or not. Just make sure you get hoods that have springs in them so they don't rattle around.

Should I buy black or silver cranks for my BK?

I don't see anything wrong as is; it works with the wheelset.

I second that, but do think if you get something else you should go black.

It looks fine, but the back of the spider is only a few mm away from the chain stay and its hit before, figured better safe than sorry.

should I get matching deep V's (i know some of you hate them) for my Fuji? or just keep it classic looking?

I had the same scenario on my commuter, darn omniums left a parting gift on the chainstay. Went for the OG silver 75's that I had laying around. Can't go wrong with them and can be had cheap that they're a bit saturated on the scene and kiddies selling them off for the cheaper omniums because they're in.

Intentional color matched rims are so 2009.

This is my current dilemna as well.
Velomine has a great price on deepv/formula sets.
But then I went to PedalRoom and searched for DeepV, to see what they look like on various bikes.
Now I'm pretty sure I don't want them.
Kinda heavy, and kinda played out.

you just need to ask yourself if you want to be seen as a fashionable fixie dude, or a bike riding sonofagun who just happens to like fixed gear.

PS- Wabi GX410 wheelset is light (ish) and classic looking. $190 shipped, taped.