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Dear Scrod,
If I ever came over, could I crash at your place for a week? |
As long as you'd be okay with Mofo (my 18 lb cat) sleeping on your neck.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by fixedgear80
(Post 13316904)
Capo if you got the funds! LIGHTweight
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=221366 |
Hi Scrod,
My fg is a Fuji Del-Rey conversion. The bb I use is a Sugino 103mm BB3 and my cranks are a mix of a 170mm Bulletproof spyder w/a RR 48t chainring and some generic 170mm square taper NDS crank. So far in 3+ years I've gone thru 2 of these bbs. After a period of time...maybe 6 mos, I experience a 'ka-chunk,ka-chunk, ka-chunk' while pedaling. Usually under stress. Then it'll go away and come back. I've repacked the bbs a couple of times each which helps for a while, but the hitch in my getalong comes back. Btw, I commute 42 mi rt w/79.1 GI 48x16 on rolling terrain w/some 6-8% climbs and decends. 500 ft drop to work and a 500 ft climb home. It's also impossible to disassemble the cartrige to replace bearings w/o destroying it(I tried :o). So, my question is this: Is it worth it to me to invest in a pricer bb say a Phil or Campy for 100.00+ or just factor the cost(43.00 @ bikeisland) into my commuting budget? Get a new one every year or so? Outside of cost what's the differences between the Sugino and/the P or C? Harder bearings? Better materials? Close tolerances, etc? All of the above? Thanks alot, nash |
That's a weird one and without having the bike right in front of me, I may not be able to give you an answer.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell. Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13317700)
As long as you'd be okay with Mofo (my 18 lb cat) sleeping on your neck.
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Originally Posted by homebrewk
(Post 13319073)
Only Scrod is capable of having a cat named Mofo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/memofo-1.jpg |
Mofo is a cutie. What is this I'm hearing about Chinese Dodicis? I was debating between a Gara and a Leader 725 for my next bike. If they're gonna be Chinese, I'm leaning toward Leader. Made in 'Merica, si?
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Originally Posted by jimmytango
(Post 13319163)
Made in 'Merica, si?
When it comes to the Dodici Gara - they went and changed a lot of what I like about the frame for 2012. The flat chainstays, butted downtube and new dropouts are bunk IMO: http://fixie-factory.com/shop/528-17...-gara-2012.jpg The older model is much nicer: http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/eCommI...0000001209.jpg |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13318881)
That's a weird one and without having the bike right in front of me, I may not be able to give you an answer.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell. Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better. Yeah, a good mechanic/guru friend of mine made this suggestion as well. Originally, I had a matched set of Bulletproof cranks, but the NDS cranks rounded out in pretty short order, so I replaced it w/one I picked up at a co-op nearby. Have sold off one of my vehicles(going car-lite+...got a scooter, sold the pick-up), so I've got some extra coinage. Plan on getting a matching set of Sugino 103mm bb and RD-2 crankset. I think it's either what you and my friend spoke of or my stroke is off a little. That would explain similar problems from 2 different bbs. Thanks again. |
Meh, I'd still get the Leader. There aren't really any decent bikes in that range made in America are there? And I agree to an extent about the new Gara. The stays look odd to me.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13314713)
What's the head tube angle on your Visp?
Originally Posted by hailandkill
(Post 13314974)
According to the eBay ad, 74.5 degrees
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13319118)
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cat ate your mustache
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lolwut?
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lol scrods!
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Dear Scrod,
On my messenger bag shoulder strap there's at least a foot and a half of extra nylon that flaps in the breeze as it was apparently made for giants. Is there any foreseeable reason that I might need that extra room at some point or can I chop it shorter with a clean conscience? |
Big loads need extra strap.
Awkward loads sometimes need extra strap. Sometimes I use more strap if I need to lower/raise center of gravity while I'm riding. I would never chop mine--I just find a good way to 'keep' it. Looping it under the main strap works. |
Good to know. I'll get creative with strap retention.
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get a thick rubber band to hold them rolled.
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hailandkill - increasing trail by adding more rake will be good when going fast but may make your steering feel a little sluggish at slower speeds.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Rake:
The "rake" or "offset" of a fork is the distance between the wheel axle and the extension of the steering axis. This may be accomplished by bending the fork blades, or by attaching the fork ends to the front of the blades, or by tilting the blades where they attach to the crown. Rake is one of the three factors that affect the trail of the bicycle, which has a considerable influence on the handling qualities.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Trail:
Trail is the distance from the center of the contact point of the front wheel with the riding surface to the intersection of the steering axis (head tube) with the surface. The trail is a function of the head angle, the fork rake, and the tire diameter. Trail has a major effect on the handling of a bicycle. More trail increases the bicycle's tendency to steer straight ahead. A bicycle with a largish trail dimension will be very stable, and easy to ride "no hands". A bicycle with a smaller trail dimension will be more manuverable and responsive. http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html |
Originally Posted by 8bits
(Post 13321024)
get a thick rubber band to hold them rolled.
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Dear Scrod,
I have no bike and I'm slowly gaining weight. At least six months until I have a bike again. Also, my knee is still f*cked up from getting hit so I can't run. What would you recommend: yoga or spastic dancing? |
Two words: portion control.
Also - if you drink soda, stop. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13321559)
Two words: portion control.
Also - if you drink soda, stop. |
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