Ask Scrod
10-04-11 | 11:47 AM
#376
Painfully average.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,304
Likes: 4
Bikes: Caad10 / All-City SP
Dear Scrod,
If I ever came over, could I crash at your place for a week?
If I ever came over, could I crash at your place for a week?
10-04-11 | 11:53 AM
#377
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
As long as you'd be okay with Mofo (my 18 lb cat) sleeping on your neck.
10-04-11 | 12:06 PM
#378
Rhythm is rhythm
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 1
From: Salt Lake City
10-04-11 | 03:18 PM
#379
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 0
From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
Hi Scrod,
My fg is a Fuji Del-Rey conversion. The bb I use is a Sugino 103mm BB3 and my cranks are a mix of a 170mm Bulletproof spyder w/a RR 48t chainring and some generic 170mm square taper NDS crank. So far in 3+ years I've gone thru 2 of these bbs. After a period of time...maybe 6 mos, I experience a 'ka-chunk,ka-chunk, ka-chunk' while pedaling. Usually under stress. Then it'll go away and come back. I've repacked the bbs a couple of times each which helps for a while, but the hitch in my getalong comes back.
Btw, I commute 42 mi rt w/79.1 GI 48x16 on rolling terrain w/some 6-8% climbs and decends. 500 ft drop to work and a 500 ft climb home. It's also impossible to disassemble the cartrige to replace bearings w/o destroying it(I tried
).
So, my question is this: Is it worth it to me to invest in a pricer bb say a Phil or Campy for 100.00+ or just factor the cost(43.00 @ bikeisland) into my commuting budget? Get a new one every year or so? Outside of cost what's the differences between the Sugino and/the P or C? Harder bearings? Better materials? Close tolerances, etc? All of the above? Thanks alot, nash
My fg is a Fuji Del-Rey conversion. The bb I use is a Sugino 103mm BB3 and my cranks are a mix of a 170mm Bulletproof spyder w/a RR 48t chainring and some generic 170mm square taper NDS crank. So far in 3+ years I've gone thru 2 of these bbs. After a period of time...maybe 6 mos, I experience a 'ka-chunk,ka-chunk, ka-chunk' while pedaling. Usually under stress. Then it'll go away and come back. I've repacked the bbs a couple of times each which helps for a while, but the hitch in my getalong comes back.
Btw, I commute 42 mi rt w/79.1 GI 48x16 on rolling terrain w/some 6-8% climbs and decends. 500 ft drop to work and a 500 ft climb home. It's also impossible to disassemble the cartrige to replace bearings w/o destroying it(I tried
).So, my question is this: Is it worth it to me to invest in a pricer bb say a Phil or Campy for 100.00+ or just factor the cost(43.00 @ bikeisland) into my commuting budget? Get a new one every year or so? Outside of cost what's the differences between the Sugino and/the P or C? Harder bearings? Better materials? Close tolerances, etc? All of the above? Thanks alot, nash
10-04-11 | 04:17 PM
#380
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
That's a weird one and without having the bike right in front of me, I may not be able to give you an answer.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell.
Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell.
Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better.
10-04-11 | 05:20 PM
#382
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
10-04-11 | 05:31 PM
#383
Hi, I'm Bryan.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,650
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: 2010 Focus Mares
Mofo is a cutie. What is this I'm hearing about Chinese Dodicis? I was debating between a Gara and a Leader 725 for my next bike. If they're gonna be Chinese, I'm leaning toward Leader. Made in 'Merica, si?
10-04-11 | 05:32 PM
#384
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
No.
When it comes to the Dodici Gara - they went and changed a lot of what I like about the frame for 2012. The flat chainstays, butted downtube and new dropouts are bunk IMO:
The older model is much nicer:
When it comes to the Dodici Gara - they went and changed a lot of what I like about the frame for 2012. The flat chainstays, butted downtube and new dropouts are bunk IMO:
The older model is much nicer:
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 10-04-11 at 05:36 PM.
10-04-11 | 05:35 PM
#385
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 0
From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
That's a weird one and without having the bike right in front of me, I may not be able to give you an answer.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell.
Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better.
I've actually never had any trouble with my Sugino 103mm BB - or even various Shimano UN54 BBs ( which are considered by many as "cheap") - so it's hard to say. The only thing I can think of off the top of my melon is that the mismatched crank arms have different Q-factors and it's putting some kind of strain on one side of your BB. Either that or your BB shell was never faced properly and the BB spindle isn't sitting in there perfectly straight with the BB installled. I would probably start by chasing the BB shell.
Because I've never had issues with "cheapo" BBs (except the damn GXP that came with my Omniums), I don't really have an opinion of why pricey BBs are better.
Yeah, a good mechanic/guru friend of mine made this suggestion as well. Originally, I had a matched set of Bulletproof cranks, but the NDS cranks rounded out in pretty short order, so I replaced it w/one I picked up at a co-op nearby. Have sold off one of my vehicles(going car-lite+...got a scooter, sold the pick-up), so I've got some extra coinage. Plan on getting a matching set of Sugino 103mm bb and RD-2 crankset.
I think it's either what you and my friend spoke of or my stroke is off a little. That would explain similar problems from 2 different bbs. Thanks again.
10-04-11 | 05:46 PM
#386
Hi, I'm Bryan.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,650
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: 2010 Focus Mares
Meh, I'd still get the Leader. There aren't really any decent bikes in that range made in America are there? And I agree to an extent about the new Gara. The stays look odd to me.
10-04-11 | 08:01 PM
#389
sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,986
Likes: 0
From: seattle, too many links
Bikes: fixed gear recumbent trike
cat ate your mustache
10-04-11 | 09:03 PM
#391
sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,986
Likes: 0
From: seattle, too many links
Bikes: fixed gear recumbent trike
lol scrods!
10-05-11 | 12:24 AM
#392
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: Sheboygan, WI
Bikes: 2010 Windsor The Hour, 1982 Fuji Supreme
Dear Scrod,
On my messenger bag shoulder strap there's at least a foot and a half of extra nylon that flaps in the breeze as it was apparently made for giants. Is there any foreseeable reason that I might need that extra room at some point or can I chop it shorter with a clean conscience?
On my messenger bag shoulder strap there's at least a foot and a half of extra nylon that flaps in the breeze as it was apparently made for giants. Is there any foreseeable reason that I might need that extra room at some point or can I chop it shorter with a clean conscience?
10-05-11 | 12:37 AM
#393
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
Big loads need extra strap.
Awkward loads sometimes need extra strap. Sometimes I use more strap if I need to lower/raise center of gravity while I'm riding.
I would never chop mine--I just find a good way to 'keep' it. Looping it under the main strap works.
Awkward loads sometimes need extra strap. Sometimes I use more strap if I need to lower/raise center of gravity while I'm riding.
I would never chop mine--I just find a good way to 'keep' it. Looping it under the main strap works.
10-05-11 | 12:43 AM
#394
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: Sheboygan, WI
Bikes: 2010 Windsor The Hour, 1982 Fuji Supreme
Good to know. I'll get creative with strap retention.
10-05-11 | 06:59 AM
#395
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
get a thick rubber band to hold them rolled.
10-05-11 | 07:38 AM
#396
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
hailandkill - increasing trail by adding more rake will be good when going fast but may make your steering feel a little sluggish at slower speeds.
Also, see here:
https://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Rake:
The "rake" or "offset" of a fork is the distance between the wheel axle and the extension of the steering axis. This may be accomplished by bending the fork blades, or by attaching the fork ends to the front of the blades, or by tilting the blades where they attach to the crown.
Rake is one of the three factors that affect the trail of the bicycle, which has a considerable influence on the handling qualities.
The "rake" or "offset" of a fork is the distance between the wheel axle and the extension of the steering axis. This may be accomplished by bending the fork blades, or by attaching the fork ends to the front of the blades, or by tilting the blades where they attach to the crown.
Rake is one of the three factors that affect the trail of the bicycle, which has a considerable influence on the handling qualities.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Trail:
Trail is the distance from the center of the contact point of the front wheel with the riding surface to the intersection of the steering axis (head tube) with the surface. The trail is a function of the head angle, the fork rake, and the tire diameter. Trail has a major effect on the handling of a bicycle. More trail increases the bicycle's tendency to steer straight ahead. A bicycle with a largish trail dimension will be very stable, and easy to ride "no hands". A bicycle with a smaller trail dimension will be more manuverable and responsive.
Trail is the distance from the center of the contact point of the front wheel with the riding surface to the intersection of the steering axis (head tube) with the surface. The trail is a function of the head angle, the fork rake, and the tire diameter. Trail has a major effect on the handling of a bicycle. More trail increases the bicycle's tendency to steer straight ahead. A bicycle with a largish trail dimension will be very stable, and easy to ride "no hands". A bicycle with a smaller trail dimension will be more manuverable and responsive.
https://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 10-05-11 at 07:44 AM.
10-05-11 | 07:40 AM
#397
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
10-05-11 | 08:41 AM
#398
Beausage is Beautiful
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 13
From: Saitama, Japan
Bikes: Nabiis Alchemy
Dear Scrod,
I have no bike and I'm slowly gaining weight. At least six months until I have a bike again. Also, my knee is still f*cked up from getting hit so I can't run. What would you recommend: yoga or spastic dancing?
I have no bike and I'm slowly gaining weight. At least six months until I have a bike again. Also, my knee is still f*cked up from getting hit so I can't run. What would you recommend: yoga or spastic dancing?
__________________
Yo. Everything I’m doing is linked on What’s up with Dave? but most of note currently is Somewhere in Japan.
Yo. Everything I’m doing is linked on What’s up with Dave? but most of note currently is Somewhere in Japan.
10-05-11 | 08:54 AM
#399
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
Two words: portion control.
Also - if you drink soda, stop.
Also - if you drink soda, stop.
10-05-11 | 09:06 AM
#400
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 28
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: CAAD 10 4, Dolan DF4, Fuji Track Classic