Ask Scrod
#4276
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,287
Likes: 837
Ok, so in your culture the word geometry refers only to the frame? Here is how I see it, when you position or adjust any of the contact or pivot points the riding geometry will change. What is proper about the lengths between 90mm and 120mm, or rather what is inappropriate about a 70mm stem?
Just picked up a 90mm Thomson X4 by the way, appreciate the advice Scrod and Yummy.
Just picked up a 90mm Thomson X4 by the way, appreciate the advice Scrod and Yummy.
Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.
For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.
80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
#4277
Your personal geometry can change (ie you grow or shrink) and your fit can change as your level of fitness does. But if frame geometry is tube length and angles of welds, the only way that can change is if you're a frame builder and cut the sucker apart change the miter and/or swap in new tubes and re-weld. Other than that, headtube angle and height, seattube angle and length, and top tube length aren't going to be doing much changing.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4278
The whole wide world of bicycles considers geometry the same way. It's not any culture, it's the status quo, for a reason.
Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.
For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.
80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.
For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.
80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4280
And I freely admit to not knowing what I'm talking about, but in the spirit of the late Rodney King, I just wonder if we can't all just get along.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4281
Despite what people think, the culture of SSFG on bike forums is one of help and consideration. We want people to ride bikes, the right ones. So we are here to help out and give advice.
But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.
Try again, people will be nice if you are too.
But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.
Try again, people will be nice if you are too.
#4282
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,287
Likes: 837
Flat bars don't abrogate the basic tenets of fitment. A shorter top tube/better handlebar design is more appropriate than a shorter stem.
#4283
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
The whole wide world of bicycles considers geometry the same way. It's not any culture, it's the status quo, for a reason.
Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.
For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.
80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.
For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.
80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
That makes sense, thanks dude.
#4284
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Your personal geometry can change (ie you grow or shrink) and your fit can change as your level of fitness does. But if frame geometry is tube length and angles of welds, the only way that can change is if you're a frame builder and cut the sucker apart change the miter and/or swap in new tubes and re-weld. Other than that, headtube angle and height, seattube angle and length, and top tube length aren't going to be doing much changing.
Ok, what I said was riding geometry, I never mentioned the frame geometry. I'm aware this can't change much, haha. What I meant to say having this explained was riding position, this is helpful. Thanks.
#4285
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
#4286
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Despite what people think, the culture of SSFG on bike forums is one of help and consideration. We want people to ride bikes, the right ones. So we are here to help out and give advice.
But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.
Try again, people will be nice if you are too.
But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.
Try again, people will be nice if you are too.
I don't know where you apparently took offense, but you're the only one who seems to be upset. Everyone else is helpful. Internet communication is hard for you.
#4287
To be honest though, since mtb riders on flat bars are typically grasping the bar at the distance of the stem from the fork, while when I ride on drop bars I'm grabbing my bars the length of the stem plus the length of the ramps from the fork, you'd think that flat bar riders would want a longer stem not a shorter one. Obviously, I'm missing something vital like mountain bikes having a longer top tube to account for that or something equally obvious. Like I said, I know nothing.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4289
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
#4290
Tyler, when bike people say "tight geometry" they usually mean something like the fact that the wheels are closer together which makes for a more responsive, more aggressive and harsher ride. You said that you wanted a shorter stem which indicates that you are looking to be less stretched out and thus having a less aggressive, less harsh ride so the term that you were using was in direct contradiction to the result. As for proper stem length, it is often suggested that the front of your hands should end up directly behind a position directly above the front axle. This is somewhat shorter on frames with tight geometry than on road bikes but it is more dependent on the handlebars.
/still not scrod gosh darnit
/still not scrod gosh darnit
#4293
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Tyler, when bike people say "tight geometry" they usually mean something like the fact that the wheels are closer together which makes for a more responsive, more aggressive and harsher ride. You said that you wanted a shorter stem which indicates that you are looking to be less stretched out and thus having a less aggressive, less harsh ride so the term that you were using was in direct contradiction to the result. As for proper stem length, it is often suggested that the front of your hands should end up directly behind a position directly above the front axle. This is somewhat shorter on frames with tight geometry than on road bikes but it is more dependent on the handlebars.
/still not scrod gosh darnit
/still not scrod gosh darnit
#4294
Thread Starter
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
Which is also why shorter stems are considered "proper" on Leader's aluminum frames.
#4296
We win all charity rides
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 0
From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
#4297
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Parma, Ohio
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Pro,Scatantte X330
Hey Scrod finally placed an order. My question is, will the seat height gonna have to be adjusted once i ride with clips? i normally ride with the front of my foot on the pedal spindle. With cages i have to put my foot further in than I'm use to right? This will affect height or no?
#4298
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,671
Likes: 21
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
#4300
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
From: Providence, RI
Bikes: Civilian Le Roi Le Veut, Kazane Track, Ciocc Designer '84, Serotta Colorado AL 25th anniversary, '85 Guerciotti Pista, '84 Trek 660, Volume Credence
Dear Scrod,
My chain recently dropped when I skip stopped. I put it back on but then it started to make clicking noises occasionally, not with my pedaling, but randomly. So when i got home I inspected my chain for stiff links or to see if it got twisted or anything and I could not detect anything wrong with it. I still took it off and cleaned it thoroughly as well as my chainring and cog and stuff, but it still makes the clicking noise like it is catching or the chainline is horribly wrong. I have the KMC 710 Sl as well. Also, i have not changed anything in the drive train on my bike in a few months. And this was the first time my chain has ever fallen off. I also measured my chainline and it is only 2mm off. I am stumped. Thanks.
My chain recently dropped when I skip stopped. I put it back on but then it started to make clicking noises occasionally, not with my pedaling, but randomly. So when i got home I inspected my chain for stiff links or to see if it got twisted or anything and I could not detect anything wrong with it. I still took it off and cleaned it thoroughly as well as my chainring and cog and stuff, but it still makes the clicking noise like it is catching or the chainline is horribly wrong. I have the KMC 710 Sl as well. Also, i have not changed anything in the drive train on my bike in a few months. And this was the first time my chain has ever fallen off. I also measured my chainline and it is only 2mm off. I am stumped. Thanks.






