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Old 06-19-12 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerMatthews
Ok, so in your culture the word geometry refers only to the frame? Here is how I see it, when you position or adjust any of the contact or pivot points the riding geometry will change. What is proper about the lengths between 90mm and 120mm, or rather what is inappropriate about a 70mm stem?

Just picked up a 90mm Thomson X4 by the way, appreciate the advice Scrod and Yummy.
The whole wide world of bicycles considers geometry the same way. It's not any culture, it's the status quo, for a reason.

Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.

For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.

80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerMatthews
That's irrelevant though, geometry can change, no?
Your personal geometry can change (ie you grow or shrink) and your fit can change as your level of fitness does. But if frame geometry is tube length and angles of welds, the only way that can change is if you're a frame builder and cut the sucker apart change the miter and/or swap in new tubes and re-weld. Other than that, headtube angle and height, seattube angle and length, and top tube length aren't going to be doing much changing.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
The whole wide world of bicycles considers geometry the same way. It's not any culture, it's the status quo, for a reason.

Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.

For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.

80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.
Though he does have flat bars on his bike if memory serves and some people like shorter stems with flat bars. Or maybe he just has short arms. I know I have crazy long monkey arms (and if memory serves Scrod does too), but for there to be an average there have to be people with as much shorter arms as we have longer arms.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Then you don't know what you're talking about.
Haha, what? Is this in regards to my reply to Kayce?
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:42 PM
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And I freely admit to not knowing what I'm talking about, but in the spirit of the late Rodney King, I just wonder if we can't all just get along.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:44 PM
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Despite what people think, the culture of SSFG on bike forums is one of help and consideration. We want people to ride bikes, the right ones. So we are here to help out and give advice.

But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.

Try again, people will be nice if you are too.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:45 PM
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Flat bars don't abrogate the basic tenets of fitment. A shorter top tube/better handlebar design is more appropriate than a shorter stem.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
The whole wide world of bicycles considers geometry the same way. It's not any culture, it's the status quo, for a reason.

Fitment or Fit is the word you're looking for.

For most people, 90-120mm will put distribute their weight appropriately, allow them to use all the positions offered by drop bars with good posture and present them with a comfortable fit when the saddle is positioned over the BB to maximize power.

80 and shorter do not allow these things to happen as easily as well as causing the bike to wander during climbing and feel sluggish and slow.

That makes sense, thanks dude.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau
Your personal geometry can change (ie you grow or shrink) and your fit can change as your level of fitness does. But if frame geometry is tube length and angles of welds, the only way that can change is if you're a frame builder and cut the sucker apart change the miter and/or swap in new tubes and re-weld. Other than that, headtube angle and height, seattube angle and length, and top tube length aren't going to be doing much changing.

Ok, what I said was riding geometry, I never mentioned the frame geometry. I'm aware this can't change much, haha. What I meant to say having this explained was riding position, this is helpful. Thanks.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:49 PM
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Kayce
Despite what people think, the culture of SSFG on bike forums is one of help and consideration. We want people to ride bikes, the right ones. So we are here to help out and give advice.

But when people come on and are arrogent without and knowledge, and refuse to take advice we turn on them. There is no reason to waste our time helping people that don't care. So go back and read the advice people have given you.

Try again, people will be nice if you are too.

I don't know where you apparently took offense, but you're the only one who seems to be upset. Everyone else is helpful. Internet communication is hard for you.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
Flat bars don't abrogate the basic tenets of fitment. A shorter top tube/better handlebar design is more appropriate than a shorter stem.
True, just for some reason lately I've seen a lot of people riding mountain bikes with short stems. Not saying it's right, just had seen a lot of that lately and that got me thinking.

To be honest though, since mtb riders on flat bars are typically grasping the bar at the distance of the stem from the fork, while when I ride on drop bars I'm grabbing my bars the length of the stem plus the length of the ramps from the fork, you'd think that flat bar riders would want a longer stem not a shorter one. Obviously, I'm missing something vital like mountain bikes having a longer top tube to account for that or something equally obvious. Like I said, I know nothing.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Aww, you're so cute Scrod.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:55 PM
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:56 PM
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Tyler, when bike people say "tight geometry" they usually mean something like the fact that the wheels are closer together which makes for a more responsive, more aggressive and harsher ride. You said that you wanted a shorter stem which indicates that you are looking to be less stretched out and thus having a less aggressive, less harsh ride so the term that you were using was in direct contradiction to the result. As for proper stem length, it is often suggested that the front of your hands should end up directly behind a position directly above the front axle. This is somewhat shorter on frames with tight geometry than on road bikes but it is more dependent on the handlebars.

/still not scrod gosh darnit
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla

Haha. Regardless, appreciate the discussion.
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:57 PM
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Old 06-19-12 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by prooftheory
Tyler, when bike people say "tight geometry" they usually mean something like the fact that the wheels are closer together which makes for a more responsive, more aggressive and harsher ride. You said that you wanted a shorter stem which indicates that you are looking to be less stretched out and thus having a less aggressive, less harsh ride so the term that you were using was in direct contradiction to the result. As for proper stem length, it is often suggested that the front of your hands should end up directly behind a position directly above the front axle. This is somewhat shorter on frames with tight geometry than on road bikes but it is more dependent on the handlebars.

/still not scrod gosh darnit
Perfect.
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Old 06-19-12 | 02:25 PM
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Which is also why shorter stems are considered "proper" on Leader's aluminum frames.
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Old 06-19-12 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
this is so disturbing, but i am enthralled. where is this from?

/irrelevant
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Old 06-19-12 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
this is so disturbing, but i am enthralled.
So much lawling
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Old 06-20-12 | 10:27 AM
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Hey Scrod finally placed an order. My question is, will the seat height gonna have to be adjusted once i ride with clips? i normally ride with the front of my foot on the pedal spindle. With cages i have to put my foot further in than I'm use to right? This will affect height or no?
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Old 06-20-12 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
this is so disturbing, but i am enthralled. where is this from?

/irrelevant
Leonard Pt. 6

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Old 06-20-12 | 02:20 PM
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From: The Bad Woods.
Originally Posted by Leukybear
Leonard Pt. 6

/not scrod
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Old 06-20-12 | 07:03 PM
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Dear Scrod,
My chain recently dropped when I skip stopped. I put it back on but then it started to make clicking noises occasionally, not with my pedaling, but randomly. So when i got home I inspected my chain for stiff links or to see if it got twisted or anything and I could not detect anything wrong with it. I still took it off and cleaned it thoroughly as well as my chainring and cog and stuff, but it still makes the clicking noise like it is catching or the chainline is horribly wrong. I have the KMC 710 Sl as well. Also, i have not changed anything in the drive train on my bike in a few months. And this was the first time my chain has ever fallen off. I also measured my chainline and it is only 2mm off. I am stumped. Thanks.
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