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-   -   Ask Scrod (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/769181-ask-scrod.html)

Scrodzilla 08-27-12 04:27 PM

A weird Fred-type asked me that a couple of years ago at the old shop where I used to work. I don't think we came up with anything, though.

hairnet 08-27-12 04:28 PM

dont breath that crap in!

jimmytango 08-27-12 04:37 PM

Not Scrod, but something like this?

Xgecko 08-27-12 05:18 PM

opps wrong place

Nagrom_ 08-27-12 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by jimmytango (Post 14659984)
Not Scrod, but something like this?

Exactly.

Thanks!

Scrodzilla 08-27-12 05:43 PM


Originally Posted by hairnet (Post 14659943)
dont breath that crap in!

Seriously. Carbon dust is nasty stuff.

Scrodzilla 08-27-12 05:45 PM


Originally Posted by jimmytango (Post 14659984)
Not Scrod, but something like [URL="http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39593&category=44"]this[/oURL]?

Holy crap. :lol:

Bat56 08-27-12 06:53 PM

Ask jimmy!
Ask jimmy!
Ask jimmy!

jimmytango 08-27-12 08:26 PM

I only knew about that because a customer had them a few days ago and I was curious.

Nagrom_ 08-27-12 08:37 PM


Originally Posted by jimmytango (Post 14660887)
I only knew about that because a customer had them a few days ago and I was curious.

Did you notice if you could put bar plugs in the end of them? or do they serve as the bar plug?

jimmytango 08-27-12 08:43 PM

They are the plugs.

Nagrom_ 08-27-12 08:43 PM


Originally Posted by jimmytango (Post 14660962)
They are the plugs.

Hm... goofy lol.

Thanks.

Muffin Man 08-27-12 09:10 PM

So I just got new brake pads for the BRS-100, and its better now, but the brake itself is now flexing. :l
And I just realized that I spent 30 on a brake that was originally 24. dammit.

Scrodzilla 08-27-12 09:57 PM

I'm not really sure why you're having so much trouble. Angie's really doesn't flex that much.

Muffin Man 08-27-12 10:35 PM

Yea I have no idea why also... This is the first brake I've seen do this...

Pinkbullet3 08-28-12 12:56 PM

I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.

http://i.imgur.com/6vWcf.png

The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.

ddeadserious 08-28-12 02:54 PM

Scrod, did you have the chance to look at some rack options for me?

hamfoh 08-28-12 04:35 PM

scrod my vegan concor is loud as hell. had the original and never heard crap but the rails just sound like I'm going to snap them everytime I ride it. anything to do with the different material or anything else you can think of? so annoying

Scrodzilla 08-29-12 08:30 AM


Originally Posted by hamfoh (Post 14664763)
scrod my vegan concor is loud as hell. had the original and never heard crap but the rails just sound like I'm going to snap them everytime I ride it. anything to do with the different material or anything else you can think of? so annoying

No idea. Is it coming from where the rails meet the body of the saddle or where the rails are clamped in the seatpost?

Scrodzilla 08-29-12 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by ddeadserious (Post 14664416)
Scrod, did you have the chance to look at some rack options for me?

I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.

Scrodzilla 08-29-12 08:33 AM


Originally Posted by Pinkbullet3 (Post 14663823)
I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.

http://i.imgur.com/6vWcf.png

The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.

The hub hardware on the stock Kilo hubs is exceptionally shoddy. If your hubs are adjusted properly though, that shouldn't be happening.

8bits 08-29-12 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 14667041)
I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.


/notscrod
I've heard only nice things about http://cetmacargo.com/ and it can be fitted with track forks.

trilobite 08-29-12 11:40 AM


Originally Posted by Pinkbullet3 (Post 14663823)
I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.

http://i.imgur.com/6vWcf.png

The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.

Looks like the cone (gray thing to the left of the black arrow), locknut (black arrow), axle bolt (red arrow) -- http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The locknut should not be loosened / tightened willy-nilly. It's responsible for keeping the cone at a particular tightness so that the the bearings in the hub are appropriately restrained. If the cone is too loose, the hub wobbles left and right on the axle. If the cone is too tight, the wheel doesn't turn or turns "grime-ly" as your bearings are being ground down. The right tightness with smooth wheel rotation and no left/right play of the hub can be on the order of single degrees adjustments to the cone. The locknut keeps the cone adjusted that way.

It sounds like you should at least get / perform a cone adjustment. The axle bolt rotating the locknut is a separate (but possibly related) issue that I can't comment on. I can't imagine why the axle bolt would be so far to the left to be pressed up against and rotating the locknut. Hope this helps with at least putting names to metal parts.

/notscrod

striknein 08-29-12 11:54 AM

1st post ban? That would be HILARIOUS.

Scrodzilla 08-29-12 11:57 AM

Ha! I meant to come back and edit my post with more details but got busy at the shop.

At least he was helpful.

striknein 08-29-12 12:13 PM

Definitely one way to make an impression.

Pinkbullet3 08-29-12 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by trilobite (Post 14667970)
Looks like the cone (gray thing to the left of the black arrow), locknut (black arrow), axle bolt (red arrow) -- http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The locknut should not be loosened / tightened willy-nilly. It's responsible for keeping the cone at a particular tightness so that the the bearings in the hub are appropriately restrained. If the cone is too loose, the hub wobbles left and right on the axle. If the cone is too tight, the wheel doesn't turn or turns "grime-ly" as your bearings are being ground down. The right tightness with smooth wheel rotation and no left/right play of the hub can be on the order of single degrees adjustments to the cone. The locknut keeps the cone adjusted that way.

It sounds like you should at least get / perform a cone adjustment. The axle bolt rotating the locknut is a separate (but possibly related) issue that I can't comment on. I can't imagine why the axle bolt would be so far to the left to be pressed up against and rotating the locknut. Hope this helps with at least putting names to metal parts.

/notscrod

Very helpful, thank you.

hamfoh 08-29-12 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 14667034)
No idea. Is it coming from where the rails meet the body of the saddle or where the rails are clamped in the seatpost?

haven't investigated enough to find this out. I always forget about it, then when I'm bouncing around on a rough rode or adjusting myself or going fast the thing sounds like it wants to break off

Nagrom_ 08-29-12 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by hamfoh (Post 14668381)
haven't investigated enough to find this out. I always forget about it, then when I'm bouncing around on a rough rode or adjusting myself or going fast the thing sounds like it wants to break off

grease the rails a little.

/notscrod

ddeadserious 08-29-12 05:12 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 14667041)
I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.

Bummer. Thanks for checking for me anyways. I'll probably just grab that Nitto one, I was just hoping to find something less pricey. :lol:


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