It really depends on the tire.

For example: steel bead Randos are much easier to mount than folding Gator Hardshells.

Good luck with that!

No. She still has a full-time gig as a photojournalist and does a ton of freelance stuff. I don't know how she does it.

Its all good, figured you were busy and its not urgent

In that Pake French 75 thread, you say your Dodici rides better. For a noob like me, can you describe what a better riding frame feels like and what contributes to the better ride between the two frames.

Aluminum typically gives a much more harsh ride than steel. My Dodici - which is made of Dedacciai Fire 7003-AL - rides much more like a steel frame, in that it absorbs more road vibrations than lower to mid-grade aluminum without flexing quite as much as steel.

Got it.

Scrod, not sure if this goes here or the Retrogression thread. What's your opinion of the Andel crankset? Also, do you know if there are any clearance issues with them and the BK frame?

Andels are awesome for the money. The non drive-side arm is a little ugly (imo) but there shouldn't be any issues with clearance.

Hey Scrod or other users, looking for a new, fatter rear tire.

Currently have a 25c Vittoria Rando I want to move to the front. Of course flat protection and durability are important, I don't skid and I still want a higher max psi. Looking for pros and cons (if any) for the following in 28c:

Panaracer RibMo's
T-Servs
Rando's

Scrod - Are the differences between the Paselas and T-Serves just the sidewall? The tread patterns look the same from pics. Thanks.

= I'm too lazy to actually look it up on the Panaracer website... Judging by the data available on their site, there seems to be difference in both puncture protection and the compound.

/notevenclosetoscrod

My 25c T-Serv's are nice and grippy, and feel great on the road IMO. The sidewall says "for messenger" which I thought was sort of funny.

Sometimes I think you guys ask questions here instead of doing a bit of extremely simple research. While I obviously don't mind answering most of the questions here, I don't want to be the slightest bit responsible for the dumbing down of America's youth.

I'm certainly here to help but I'm not Google.

Coming from not America's youth, being 47 years old, I wasn't too lazy to go to Panaracer's web site as I indeed go there first. However, my lack of knowledge in bicycle tire terminology led me to post the question here. Panaracer's desrciption of the tires:

[h=2]T-SERV PT[/h]T-Serv is a great performance tire for urban city use, incorporating ZSG compound, 400D Lite Extra Cord, and PT technologies. Hands down, T-Serv PT is the best urban strength to weight ratio tire on the market today. Need to get through your urban jungle quickly and reliably? T-serv PT is the answer.


[h=2]PASELA[/h]Pasela is our standard all around touring or urban commuting tire. Its comprehensive size range insures that you can find a Pasela for most any usage. Ride it and trust it. 2 tread patterns available.


The part that confused me the most was why they use what looks like the same tread pattern yet call it two different names. I would think they would just use a smilar name and make an ammendment to it, like the Pasela and Pasela TG.

Now, I don't ask questions here too often, I am one to do simple research - but when I don't understand the results of the research I'll ask. I apologize for wasting other's time.

No need to take offense. I wasn't necessarily aiming my comments at you - or anyone in particular. Just stating some very simple facts. There an awful lot of really dumb questions in this thread.

http://namebrandidentity.files.wordp...y20vanilli.jpg

T-Serv has the technologies mentioned in the bolded part. Pasela only has the 400D. This should be clear from the little icons next to each tire on the website. The "technologies" section on the site will explain what they mean: http://www.panaracer.com/technologies.php

Why should the use different thread pattern? Thread patterns are pretty inconsequential on hard surfaces anyway.

No offense taken, just got a little short (you know, the assumption that FG/SS rider are for youngsters only) - my apologies.

Thanks for the link on the Technologies tab, I missed that on their website and that explaines alot.

Edit - also just realized that the technologies explanations pop up when you hover over the icons. Never knew that and should have tried before posting - sorry.

One more thing, most versions of Pasela are steel bead (only two aramid versions) whereas T-Serv is all aramid.

True, but of all their tires these are the only two that look identical - which is what sparked my questions.

You crack me up, man!

In the end, through all of this, I gained knowledge that I didn't have and now know the differences between the two and more :thumb:

Yeah really, I learn so much just from reading this thread. One of my favorites on this forum by far.

Scrod-
New member looking for either some direction on where to get the answers or your knowledge should you know the answers. I'm a super newb with little to no knowledge of bikes.

I have a 2012 SE Draft Lite-yes I know they are cheap and crap. (I've researched that much) Its the first bike I have purchased for over 20 years, I'm using it for a round town commuter.

So far i've added some MKS GR-9 pedals, All-City Clips, straps and a new saddle.

The confusion im having is choosing wheels and a new crankset.

When I shop for wheelsets I know I need to look at 700c, but when it comes to the hubs and spokes im not sure what to get. I run front brake so I would like to have MSW, this is the main reason for switching as my current wheels squeal like a banshee. Looking to keep my total wheelset cost under $200.

With the crankset I've found out that i have a Euro BB which is a bit different then the standard JIS or Square. I'm not seeing any crankset's advertised as being Euro BB compatible. So if I want to purchase a Pake or Origin8 crankset what needs to be done? Or do you have another suggestion? Im looking to keep my crank under 100 but closer to $50 would be good. (the gearing isnt an issue, I found that sticky :))

Hope this is something you might be able to help me with. i've been trolling the forum for a few months trying to learn but when entering a new sport/hobby its quite overwhelming. Thanks in advance for any help you might provide.

(tried to PM this but couldn't due to post count) Hopefully this is inline with the thread purpose, thanks.

It's been a while since I've seen a Draft Lite - do the BB cups press in or thread in? If they thread in, you can replace it with any English threaded BB, whether square-taper, GXP, or otherwise. "JIS" is one of two versions of square-taper interfaces (the other being ISO). The BB you get depends on what crankset you'll be using. The Pake track cranksets use a 68X107mm English-threaded JIS square-taper.

Regarding wheels, you're not going to find a better deal than Velomine.