You need a 130bcd chainring.

Ill stop answering and start asking.

My problem is my surly rear hub. It's the oder one ("Surly New Hub") with the angled cartridge bearings (7901) where you have to adjust the bearing pre-load. I can adjust the bearing fine to where there is no noticeable play and the hub spins smoothly. I adjust the bearing by first tightening the locknut on one side, then securing that side of the wheel either in frame on on a spare fork I have (I don't have axle vice, so I use this to immobilize the axle) and the adjust the other side, then tighten the locknut. However, when I put the wheel on the bike and tighten the axle nuts, the pre-load increases so much that what was butta smooth becomes really sticky. Even if I leave a bit of play to the bearing, tightening the axle nuts also tightens the bearing. So I need to leave quite a bit of play there and so far have not managed to leave just the right amount so that tightening the axle nuts would get rid of the play but not overtighten the bearing.

My questions:

1. Why does this happen? Isn't the locknut supposed to lock the bearing? I've heard that a QR might compress the axle a bit but on a bolt on axle?

2. Do you have experience with the "Surly Ultra New Hubs" which use the regular 6901 cartridge bearing and have shouldered axle? Would I get better results if I just bought the innards of the new design (the hub shells are identical according to Surly)?

About the Ultra New Hubs: https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/were...u_up_hub_style

The Surly 'New Hub' is notorious for being problematic and having issues with the bearings.

I have no experience with the 'Ultra New Hub' but I'm pretty sure you can buy an axle kit to replace your adjustable bearing bull**** mechanism with the newer non-adjustable version.

They went from one problem to another. The bolt on axle is going to be an epic failure as well, I see a bunch of stripped axles in the near future. All surly needs to do to solve these issues would be to run a fixed shoulder axle and uses track nuts instead of bolts.

Should I sell the dmr and put the money towards a surf rod or a track bike?

The bolt-on thing looked kinda flimsy to mee too, although I would like the possibility of fixing a flat without carrying the 15mm wrench. Has any other manufacturer made this type of axles? Have they been unsuccesful?

I'm just trying to evaluate wheteher to throw those Surly hubs off the bridge and buy something better of to buy the ultra new guts for what I have. I'd be buying the axle kit locally, so I shouldn't think I'd have too much hassle with warranty isssues, should problems arise.

Edit: OTOH my winter fixed gear has a QR axle in the back and I've had zero problems with it, so maybe those flimsy looking bolts are up to the task too.

Phil Wood, Profile, Paul, and All-City New Sheriff (to name a few) all use that type of axle/bolts. Personally, I hate them.

You ride it so much that you'll miss it once it's gone. Keep it.

Would you say a Pake French 75 is similar quality to a Leader 725 or a 735?

It's a different frame entirely, making it difficult to compare.

Hey Scrod, have you ever tried these Sugino lockrings? https://www.universalcycles.com/image...arge/64203.jpg

That's actually a carrier system for Sugino's alloy cogs. I've been tempted to try it but meh.

No recommendation to replace them with Phil Woods bearings? That seems to be a common remedy offered.

-

Miche makes a similar system that is moderatly popular on the track.

Keep it and build a track bike.

scrod,

A23 or Archetype?

H+S seem to be slightly heavier and it seems like the general consensus says A23 is slightly superior in build quality and stays true better

also do you know if the decals come off the archetypes?

Can I ask why? Just personal preference or problems with them?

Also, are the Phil Wood bearings a good replacement? As far as I understand they are not strictly speaking the right type even though the dimensions are the same. Phils are 6901 vs. Surly New Hubs take the angular contact version 7901. 7901 is designed to bear axial loads as well as radial and I read it somewhere that 6901 would wear out faster in the "new hub" style system without the shouldered axle.

My Phil hub was constantly slipping forward no matter how much gorilla force I used to tighten the damn thing.

We've got some on the way but I haven't even seen the Archtype in person yet.

My Surly New Hub does the same thing even though it has the regular nuts... :/

Edit: any comment on the 6901/7901 thingy?

ohh, are you guys just getting into them or are they that new? i think i read they were introduced in '09, could be wrong tho

Soooo.... wanna hear a funny story? I finally got myself measured for the fit calculator, and it turns out that your Excel frame ended up giving me a dead-on-balls French fit. Apparently I've been riding too-small bikes for a while now. So thanks for THAT.

Now I want upgrades. Do I:

1) Thomson stem and seatpost (from VO Tall-Stack/Kalloy UNO)

2) Gatorskins (from Serfas Seca/Specialized something-or-other)

3) Smaller chainring and cog, say 42/15 (from 53/19)

I like the idea of shaving grams, but I also like the idea of some faster rolling tires.

Not Scrod:

1: Seat post yes, their stems are starting to use some oddball bolts for a stem.
2: While the Gatorskins are good, I feel that the sidewalls on them and the hardshells are not what they used to be.
3: I rock 42x15 gearing, I like it, gets the job done.

Scrod,

What happened to LessonLearned... again? Didn't see anything more than his usual defensive responses, did I miss something?

He's "gone to live on a farm".