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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
(Post 15317580)
hi scrod did you miss me?
anyways, your thoughts on hutchinson tires? ive got a set of fusion 3's is got a deal on and so far i love them, smooth comfy and roll pretty well. Just curious if youve had experience with them and likes or dislikes, durability ect.... ive read some good reviews throughout the web but would like to here what you think. |
Originally Posted by bwilli88
(Post 15318166)
Is it better to have a large front gear with a bigger rear than to have the same ratio but with smaller gears? E.g. 53/13 = 4.08/1 or 44/11 = 4/1
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post15286520 |
Lol
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This is random, but..
Do you have any car dealer stories to tell? :lol: |
Yo Scrod - I'm trying to remember the name of a company that was making super-compact bike boxes for flying. I remember people buying them back in 2004. Small enough that you had to take the crank and fork off, but worked well. Any idea what I'm talking about?
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Someone asks you for SIS shift cable housing for one bike. How many inches do you give them?
Then they tell you it's for a tri bike w the shifters out on aero bars does the answer change? |
Scrod, looks like I owe you an apology - tried removing the spacer from my GXP BB and it reassembled fine. Thanks for setting me (and others) straight.
I think I may have been misremembering how it actually happened at installation time back when I got it. I got the frame new and was anxious to get riding - the BB shell was never faced, and a shop I took it to for the headset installation told me I didn't need to worry about it. When I went to install the BB, it would bind up when I tightened the crank arm down all the way. I looked around for instructions and saw the junk about the spacers, but after installing spacers on each side, the chainline was obviously off. I took the spacer off the drive side, which corrected the chainline, and kept the spacer on the NDS, which removed the binding issue. I've since had the shell faced but didn't think much of the spacer when I put it back together. However, now it seems to not bind without the spacer, so I would guess that the slightly narrower faced BB shell allowed the crank arm to seat fully without impacting the bearing seal. Thanks again! |
Scodsie poo - can you recommend me a "decent" fixed wheelset for less than $150 - has to be all black. Thanks bbgrl.
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Originally Posted by Bat56
(Post 15321466)
Someone asks you for SIS shift cable housing for one bike. How many inches do you give them?
Then they tell you it's for a tri bike w the shifters out on aero bars does the answer change? |
Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
(Post 15321406)
Yo Scrod - I'm trying to remember the name of a company that was making super-compact bike boxes for flying. I remember people buying them back in 2004. Small enough that you had to take the crank and fork off, but worked well. Any idea what I'm talking about?
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Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15327875)
Scodsie poo - can you recommend me a "decent" fixed wheelset for less than $150 - has to be all black. Thanks bbgrl.
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Originally Posted by boom
(Post 15325526)
Scrod, looks like I owe you an apology - tried removing the spacer from my GXP BB and it reassembled fine. Thanks for setting me (and others) straight.
I think I may have been misremembering how it actually happened at installation time back when I got it. I got the frame new and was anxious to get riding - the BB shell was never faced, and a shop I took it to for the headset installation told me I didn't need to worry about it. When I went to install the BB, it would bind up when I tightened the crank arm down all the way. I looked around for instructions and saw the junk about the spacers, but after installing spacers on each side, the chainline was obviously off. I took the spacer off the drive side, which corrected the chainline, and kept the spacer on the NDS, which removed the binding issue. I've since had the shell faced but didn't think much of the spacer when I put it back together. However, now it seems to not bind without the spacer, so I would guess that the slightly narrower faced BB shell allowed the crank arm to seat fully without impacting the bearing seal. Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15327891)
Need more details than that, hombre. Box section, 30mm, 42mm, sealed hubs, etc?
BASICALLY - I was thinking of upgrading the beater with a new wheelset - something like the Alex + forumula combo you have on the RG site, but now I'm wondering if I should just keep my Hour as-is and put that money towards another bike. |
Bianchi super pista vs one of the cinellis vs a gazzetta
Which would you recommend most for weight, ride quality, stiffness, and money? I'm leaning towards super P. |
Originally Posted by FixedDriveJess
(Post 15328102)
Bianchi super pista vs one of the cinellis vs a gazzetta
Which would you recommend most for weight, ride quality, stiffness, and money? I'm leaning towards super P. |
Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15327932)
Uhhh, they have to fit on my Windsor Hour - and preferably work with a front brake? (I'm still learning all of this bicycle knowledge, pretty ignorant when it comes to wheelsets, forgive me).
BASICALLY - I was thinking of upgrading the beater with a new wheelset - something like the Alex + forumula combo you have on the RG site, but now I'm wondering if I should just keep my Hour as-is and put that money towards another bike. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15328215)
The Alex/Novatec set is much better. It's got machined sidewalls though.
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It means you can use a brake.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15328395)
It means you can use a brake.
Since they are machined - does that mean they aren't 100% blacked out? Do they have a silver strip around where the pad would touch? Thanks again for the help mi amigo - i appreciate it. |
Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15328420)
Since they are machined - does that mean they aren't 100% blacked out? Do they have a silver strip around where the pad would touch?
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15327884)
The markup on cable housing is ridiculous and I'm always really generous.
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Somewhat related to previous box question: Do you ever ship complete bikes? If so, what is your preferred shipper (Fedex, UPS, etc) in terms of rates and service?
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We sell All-City completes on our site and have shipped quite a few. USPS Parcel Select (which is a new business class rate introduced this year) takes 5-7 days in the continental US and costs much less than FedEx or UPS Ground.
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Hey,
So I have been having some creaking problems on the left side of my BB/crank region whenever lots or pressure was applied. I was able to replicate it on the stand even. So I took it all out and regreased and reinstalled the BB and cranks and the creaking went away for a few days and came back today so I took it all out again and inspected it all. The crank arm looked good. No deformation or rounding of the interface. When I put it back together I could not replicate the creaking again. The BB is fairly new and was just installed a few weeks ago as well. Is there anything else that would be making the creaking noise or anything else that I should look out for? |
Creaks are the devil. How did you go about replicating it on the stand? Could it be a pedal?
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