Have you heard of complaints about the ProType BB ? I've had no problems with mine after several thousand miles of use.

No complaints from customers and the ones I've used on my own bikes were fine but I noticed several variances in the spindle length and taper. That's enough for me.

I am about to pull the trigger on most of a build kit, a few quick questions:

I am lacing h+son archetypes to all city new sheriff hubs (my first time building wheels). Have you built these recently? Averaging multiple calculators I come up with 287.64mm front and 287.1mm rear for spokes. I was thinking 287mm Sapim Lasers front and rear. Does this sound correct?

Also, any input on the Fyxation Rodeo Pursuit bars? Specifically 25.4 vs. 31.8 and stiffness. They look similar to Nitto RB-002s, which I currently have and love, but I really want to go to 31.8 unless they are overly stiff and harsh for typical city riding. 31.8 clamps seem to be the new standard and should be easier to mix and match stems and bars should the need arise (dial in fit, change to drops, etc...)


Thanks

287mm is what I'd use.

Regarding the bars, any handlebar having a 31.8 center will (in theory) be stiffer than one having a 25.4 or 26.0 center. Rodeo Pursuits do have more drop than the Nitto RB-002 and are a little closer to the RB-021.

Hey Scrod,

I recently bought a Izumi standard track chain from the shop, but cannot figure out how to remove the chainlink to make it a shorter chain. It seems like the rivet isn't popping through the chain. Am i suppose to just somehow ply it off the pivot?

I've never had any trouble using a chain tool.

Hey Scrod,

Do you have any input about tapered vs non tapered head tubes for fixed gear bikes?

Thanks!

Tapered head tubes seem to be all the rage for 2015 but I think it's a little unnecessary.

Is it stiffer, stronger, more cred-worthy, etc? Maybe, but I don't particularly care about the new fad. I ride fixed gear bikes on the street, not down the side of a mountain.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the purpose of a tapered head tube to permit use of an integrated headset ? Why would an integrated headset be stiffer or stronger than a conventional external headset ? Other than the clean flush look and low stack height, what is the advantage ?

it allows the headtube to be the exact height you want it to be without having to factor in the height of a headset and the variable out there. so puts geometry into an exact instead of a near measurement.

-not scrod

TT, I love you man...but you're slipping!

There are plenty of standard 1 1/8" head tubes that are designed for use with an integrated headset. A tapered head tube/steerer (like that on the Cinelli Parallax, countless modern mountain bikes and road bikes) is one that is 1 1/8" at the top and 1.5" at the bottom.

Just watch, it's about to become all the rage with aluminum track frames.

http://oldglorymtb.com/wp-content/up...eerer-tube.jpg

This is a perfect example of why this is not the 'Ask craigcraigcraig' thread.

dear scrod why does state bike co have a vidoe of their most expensive bike "undefeated" with rider doing skids in traffic in the middle lane or having uncapped handle bars in full kit bobbing and weaving in traffic. Why do they also not list a bb drop/height for their frames???

yours truly - genestarwand

ps. You should be a mod again.

because street cred

/notscrod

I could see the advantage of a larger diameter bearing at the bottom since it is the one the that takes the most punishment, particularly in an off road application as you mention above.

Is this design limited to frames with large diameter tubes, in particular the downtube, which also implies hydro-formed aluminium or carbon fiber?

You couldn't have this on a bike with "traditional" steel tubes, right?

scrod whats the point of having a ask scrod thread if others are going to answer for you.

ps.

I still think you should be a mod again.

I suppose a frame with smaller steel tubes could use a huge tapered head tube but that would be even sillier.

I have no good answer for why State Bicycle Co. does what they do. Maybe they want fixie kids to die.

I don't ever want to "moderate" this forum again.

I can't help it if people wish they were as cool as me. :)

damn you and your logical answers. Also not to answer without a question.

what are your thoughts on older shimano 600ex cranksets, Geared or used as single speed.

random: 107mm bottoms with shimano 600ex crankset give a good chainline for singlespeed or fixed gear purposes on the outer ring.

:edit for search purposes

I'm still on the hunt for searching for a fixed gear bike. You appear to be looked upon as the Fixie god. Three of my lbs are wanting me to spend way more then my budget. Wanting to build me a bike using mainly all origin8 parts or surly. Another is throwing bikes at me around 8-1000. Are the bikes I'm looking at worthless? The lbs look at me like I'm crazy.

Budget. 5-600$

Bikes I am thinking about:
Khs 100
Rush hour
East side

I don't really want to jump on the kilo bandwagon.

This will be my first Fixie. Will mod it here and there.

Looking for some advice. Direction.

Thank you either way.

Well now you've done it. You called Scrod the "Fixie God"
He's gone back into his den and there will be 6 more weeks of winter.

To answer your question, all the bikes you've listed are just fine. Pick one you like and buy it.
Better yet, check the *cough* Retrogression *cough* website and see if any of those are there.

/not scrod

Correction: Fixed gear god.

At least once a week, someone will come into the shop with ideas of doing a "full custom build" and have a projected budget of $600 or less. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a budget of $500-600 but even with the crappiest parts, it's just not possible. For example, an average Pake build done here using mid-range components and cutting a few corners when it comes to smaller things runs in the $750-850 range (including build labor) and typical Leader builds can easily add up to anywhere between $1200-1600.

All three of the bikes you mention are pretty good bang for the buck as far as off-the-shelf completes go.

my first bike came out to about 600 not counting shipping costs, and that was truly bottom of the barrel parts, by no means a fast race bike.
it was good enough to see that i loved it and what i wanted out of a "good" bike, my leader is somewhere upwards of 1500, thats with a totally on sale frame and recycling some parts

in retrospect i shouldve bought complete, it wouldve been better for less money and provided me with the same if not better experience

just my nickels, cuz nickels is money too.

Hey Scrod,

Do these crankarms look like they're in good condition? (let me know if you need any more photos to tell :p)

Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4

Thanks!

The BB interface looks good. How are the pedal threads?

Fixie God? Think Hulk with a chainwhip

Pedal threads are in even better condition :)-- I was just unsure about the BB interface, thanks for letting me know!

How does it feel to not only be the fixie god but also fixie famous.
Couldn't help but notice your shop in the newest leader video. You're so cool you get put on bike blogs now....

:lol:

Link ?