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My LBS came back with a "custom" build of all orgin8 products for a fixe coming in at $480. I still think I am sold on the fyxation eastside.
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That video was made as a spoof of this:
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So I have nitto rb-001 bullhorns (similar to rb-002 but different clamp size) and I am having trouble getting bar plugs that will fit, given that the ends curl and are not straight. Do you know if the nitto plugs you sell will fit my bars?
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Scrod, I recently built a cinelli and come to you again with an issue I just can't solve. I'm using a Kmc K710 Kool 1/8" Chain, and when I try to skid stop, I occasionally get a massive "clank!" as if the chain jumps a tooth or something. I've tested my chain line and it looks straight and the chain doesn't seem to want to jump off at all. Also, occasionally from a dead stop, if I give it a hard pedal my rear wheel skips on occasion briefly, then rides normal. My chain link tool may have messed up one of the links on a bit of a grunt install (chain was so big it didn't fit perfectly), but I was careful, and they all look perfect and don't seem to be seized. Any advice? New Chain? I am using an all city cog and omnium cranks.
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Looking to buy a bike for around $300; which one would you choose and why?
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Originally Posted by iTripped
(Post 16913704)
So I have nitto rb-001 bullhorns (similar to rb-002 but different clamp size) and I am having trouble getting bar plugs that will fit, given that the ends curl and are not straight. Do you know if the nitto plugs you sell will fit my bars?
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Originally Posted by CinelliFix
(Post 16914258)
Scrod, I recently built a cinelli and come to you again with an issue I just can't solve. I'm using a Kmc K710 Kool 1/8" Chain, and when I try to skid stop, I occasionally get a massive "clank!" as if the chain jumps a tooth or something. I've tested my chain line and it looks straight and the chain doesn't seem to want to jump off at all. Also, occasionally from a dead stop, if I give it a hard pedal my rear wheel skips on occasion briefly, then rides normal. My chain link tool may have messed up one of the links on a bit of a grunt install (chain was so big it didn't fit perfectly), but I was careful, and they all look perfect and don't seem to be seized. Any advice? New Chain? I am using an all city cog and omnium cranks.
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Originally Posted by sa1vation
(Post 16914313)
Looking to buy a bike for around $300; which one would you choose and why?
Windsor Clockwork PLUS: Save Up To 60% Off Windsor Fixie Singlespeed Bikes - Clockwork Motobecane Record CF: Save Up To 60% Off Fixie Track Bikes | Track Bikes | Fixie Gear | Single Speed Bicycles | Motobecane singlespeed bicycles | Save up to 60% off list prices Motobecane Track: Save Up to 60% Off Motobecane Singlespeed Bikes - 2012 Track Bicycles by Motobecane USA up to 60% Off |
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by CinelliFix
(Post 16914258)
Scrod, I recently built a cinelli and come to you again with an issue I just can't solve. I'm using a Kmc K710 Kool 1/8" Chain, and when I try to skid stop, I occasionally get a massive "clank!" as if the chain jumps a tooth or something. I've tested my chain line and it looks straight and the chain doesn't seem to want to jump off at all. Also, occasionally from a dead stop, if I give it a hard pedal my rear wheel skips on occasion briefly, then rides normal. My chain link tool may have messed up one of the links on a bit of a grunt install (chain was so big it didn't fit perfectly), but I was careful, and they all look perfect and don't seem to be seized. Any advice? New Chain? I am using an all city cog and omnium cranks.
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16914557)
It's really easy to **** up the pins on those chains by removing them and pushing them back in. You should've used the master link.
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
(Post 16914982)
i had this happening with my first bike and it turns out the chain wasnt skipping, the cog just wasnt fully tightened and needed to use my massive guads to tighten it all the way down. make sure to check the lockring and if it can be tightened again thats probably it
+1 It sounds like a loose lockring/cog to me, as opposed to a chain issue. I had this happen on my first bike, and occasionally when I change my gearing. Really tighten that thing down, and see if it stops. |
Considering that we are talking about that specific chain and that he admittedly may have messed up one of the links I immediately figured it would be the chain, as I've heard (and felt) quite a few of them click and pop right where the fouled link is.
My refusal to believe that people still don't know how to properly tighten a cog or lockring made me overlook it. I suppose it could be a possibility, although a cog slipping usually doesn't make that much noise. |
I have a good chain whip and park tool lock ring wrench, so I'm certain these were put on properly. I'm going to my lbs to buy a new chain today, I'll use the master link as suggested. Thanks for the help guys. Btw, scrod, that video is awesome ha.
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Hey Scrod,
Regarding cogs-- I'm planning on running a 1/8 cog, do you suggest EAI or All-City Standard? Checked out your PR and saw you used the latter, would you recommend it over EAI? Thanks! |
Scrod, looking at forks for a leader 725 that will be strictly street ridden, would a 43mm rake be a bad idea? It was just mentioned in a thread that it might make handling unstable. I tried doing research but it seems like some people think the bigger rake is okay if ridden in the streets. Would it be best to stick with the leader forks that have a 28 mm rake?
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are you following the tdf, scrod?
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After doing more research I think I found my answer, would probably be best to stick with a fork around 28 to 30 rake. Looks like the leader i806tr would be the best bet.
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Originally Posted by dimethi
(Post 16918285)
Hey Scrod,
Regarding cogs-- I'm planning on running a 1/8 cog, do you suggest EAI or All-City Standard? Checked out your PR and saw you used the latter, would you recommend it over EAI? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by bro
(Post 16918404)
are you following the tdf, scrod?
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Originally Posted by murrellington
(Post 16918417)
After doing more research I think I found my answer, would probably be best to stick with a fork around 28 to 30 rake. Looks like the leader i806tr would be the best bet.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16919083)
No.
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It may be "sacrilege" because I'm a shop owner and all but the Tour de France really doesn't interest me at all. I'd honestly rather watch a knitting competition.
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i was immediately surprised when i found out that this was a thing, then i realized this is america and everything is a thing |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16922540)
It may be "sacrilege" because I'm a shop owner and all but the Tour de France really doesn't interest me at all. I'd honestly rather watch a knitting competition.
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Hey Scrod, whats the difference between the leader i803 and the leader i805? worth it to just get the i805? not really considering the i806 since i would need a new headset for the carbon steerer
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The I803 has thinner blades and looks more sleek. Weight, rake and axle to crown is the same as the I805.
Also, the I805 is out of stock until late August. |
2 Attachment(s)
Hi Scrod,
Do you (or anyone else here) know what frame this is and if it comes as a complete bike. It reminds me of an orange creamsicle and I want to take a bite out of it each time I pass by it (at work). http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=392474http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=392475 |
Scrod,
Curious if you ever ride in the velodrome or if you strictly ride streets only? |
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