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Originally Posted by rms13
(Post 16685420)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=375669http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=375670
Is this intentional or just an eerie coincidence? |
Originally Posted by iTripped
(Post 16679371)
Ok Scrod, here's one for you:
A while ago my grandfather passed and left each of his grandkids an inheritance. I'd like to use some of that to get something for my bike in his memory. Something classy, possibly vintage or at least evocative of an earlier time. Last year I got a Brooks Swift (in antique brown) from your online shop and have really been enjoying that so one possibility that came to mind was to get the same saddle in black. So anyway, I tell you all of that just to give you the background for my question: Can you think of other saddles that might be suitable to what I am looking for? I was looking at the Brooks Swallow, but as far as I can tell I can only get one with copper rivets if I get the Select model and that doesn't come in black? I have other copper accents on my bike which is why I wanted that. Also, I don't know much about other vintage saddle brands, so I wouldn't even know what to search for on ebay, etc. This is a bit of a wild goose chase, I admit and don't worry, I'm not hanging this all on you. I just figured I'd post it this thread so that I'd get at least one legit response. :) |
Is that the Bern Allston you are wearing in your new avatar? If so how do you like it? I've been wanting something that blends a little better to a guy who wears nothing but t-shirts and jean shorts and yet still has reasonable venting.
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It is the Allston. I needed to get a new helmet when I cut my dreads off because my XXXL Brentwood no longer fit.
I love the hell out of that thing. |
Thanks for the suggestion - I'll have to look into that
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16685636)
Surprisingly, it was a coincidence. Matt Lingo took that photo at the Velodrome a couple of weeks ago and quite a few people have pointed out that it looks like that pic of Sheldon. I've got a little toy gorilla I've been considering sticking to the top of my helmet too. :lol:
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Originally Posted by rex615
(Post 16685810)
I propose that you are a worthy candidate to carry on his legacy; like him you are a great mechanic that shares his knowledge on line. You also have a great sense of humor and even often chose an eclectic look for your internet persona. I am sure I am forgetting something else but that s enough for now.
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is there any danger in installing a miche carrier and cog on a formula hub but with a lockring that does not fully cover the splined area?
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Originally Posted by RAISEDBYWOLVES
(Post 16686440)
is there any danger in installing a miche carrier and cog on a formula hub but with a lockring that does not fully cover the splined area?
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1 Attachment(s)
the lockring i have covers most of the spline teeth on the cog but does not extend further - coming just short of the main body of the cog. here is a little mock up
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=375755 it seems solid enough installed, but im worried the minimal contact would be a weak and potentially dangerous liability |
You'll be fine.
Once the cog is installed on the carrier, it essentially becomes the same as any other threaded cog and the only way for it to come loose from the cog is to be threaded off. |
Thoughts on this vs a star-nut?
Nashbar Expanding Fork Plug |
Expander plugs are typically for use on carbon steeerers, as inserting a starnut will damage the carbon. There's no real need to use one on a steel or aluminum steerer.
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Bought Origin 8 risers that are 25.4 in clamp diameter. Are the bar end sizing on for the levers all universal? Don't know if I need 22.2 or 24mm levers.
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Nitto risers are 24mm. Just about all others are 22.2mm.
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okay so i'm replacing the crankset on my beater.
currently running fsa cranks on a 107mm shimano un55 bb (i think fsa recommends 110 or something). i wouldnt be able to use any shorter of a spindle with these. i got the chainring on the outside, formula hub, origin8 cog, and what seems like a pretty straight/quiet chainline. i might buy some vuelta pista cranks i found for cheap, and i was wondering. if i use them with my 107mm bb, would i have to put the ring on the inside for 42ish chainline? or should i just get a 103. also this might be ******** but for example if i used my fsa's on a 103mm bb, the cranks would slide on so far as to touch the bb and wouldnt be able to get tightened all the way... i dont want that to happen with the vueltas and waste $25 on a bb. and i also dont want to run the chainring on the inside. do ya think a 103 would be long enough to stick vuelta cranks on? |
What kind of gearing would you go with for a path racer?
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Originally Posted by bro
(Post 16694330)
okay so i'm replacing the crankset on my beater.
currently running fsa cranks on a 107mm shimano un55 bb (i think fsa recommends 110 or something). i wouldnt be able to use any shorter of a spindle with these. i got the chainring on the outside, formula hub, origin8 cog, and what seems like a pretty straight/quiet chainline. i might buy some vuelta pista cranks i found for cheap, and i was wondering. if i use them with my 107mm bb, would i have to put the ring on the inside for 42ish chainline? or should i just get a 103. also this might be ******** but for example if i used my fsa's on a 103mm bb, the cranks would slide on so far as to touch the bb and wouldnt be able to get tightened all the way... i dont want that to happen with the vueltas and waste $25 on a bb. and i also dont want to run the chainring on the inside. do ya think a 103 would be long enough to stick vuelta cranks on? If you already have a 107mm, try it and see what kind of chain line you end up with. |
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
(Post 16694374)
What kind of gearing would you go with for a path racer?
Something pretty spinny but not annoyingly so. I'm thinking 46/19 or 48/20 for 63ish gear inches. |
Cool, thanks.
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hey buddy, do they (still?) make paselas in all black?
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Paselas, yes. Pasela PTs, no. If you want the added puncture protection, go for T-Serves.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16698264)
Paselas, yes. Pasela PTs, no. If you want the added puncture protection, go for T-Serves.
rebuilding my scrambler for a friend whos trying to get in shape, what would be a decent & cheap brake + lever combo (front and rear, making it SS) for a ~$300 bike? i was thinking tektro or diacompe something but i figured youd have a better, more specific insight |
I would just go with Tektro. If you need a single cross lever, let me know. We've got a bunch of random ones hanging around at the shop.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 16698934)
I would just go with Tektro. If you need a single cross lever, let me know. We've got a bunch of random ones hanging around at the shop.
ps: can i use the ct-5 on a 710sl? |
I'm pretty sure you can.
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<3
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Newb question.
So I'm about to buy a frame & goodies to start on my first build. Eventually I'd love to get an old school Campy Pista crankset. I've seen several out there with prices ranging according to condition. My question is, why the hell are there tons of right crankarms but no left arms? I know there's gotta be a logical reason. Thanks in advance. PS Be warned, I'll probably have more dumb questions as I start tinkering about. |
Wow, they must have been REALLY bad. Thanks for clearing that up.
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The short answer in this case would be 'I have no idea'.
I know some of those old Campy cranks had drive side arms that were prone to cracking where the arm joins the spider, which would probably mean there would be less on the market instead of more. |
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