E: photoshop's a pain in the balls with a trackpad:
http://i.imgur.com/JXl4XQ2.jpg

I am buying a threaded fork for a project and have a question. The fork I want comes in 160mm steerer with 65mm of threads, the rest are all definitely too big or too small. My head tube is 122 mm and the headset I plan to use is the Tange Levin headset which I believe has a stack height of 34 mm. The numbers come out to seem like the fork will fit, but it seems to be cutting it close. You think it will be good?

Yeah. You'll either need to shave a few mm off or use a small spacer in the headset.

do you know of another type of cog that fits on a sturmey archer s3x hub besides the proprietary ones?

i want a 19t 3/32 and the SA 3/32 ones only come in 12 or 13t

Surly makes splined cogs that fit on the S3X hub. AFAIK, there is a 19T, 3/32" version available. Otherwise, the S3X driver is threaded for a standard track cog. If you have a 19T, 3/32" threaded cog you can use that if you put one of the splined SA spacers between the cog and the lockring.

eBay also has an abundance of inexpensive, splined 3/32" cogs:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40

Scrod is it ever okay for your saddle and bars to not match?

**EDIT** double dip - what's your take on saddles that have "anotomic relief" (aka those taint valleys)

I've got a bunch of e-mail to answer regarding tracking info, wheel builds and special orders. I'll forward it to you in the morning.

Scrod, why you don't answer the Retrogression thread?

Because I don't spend every waking moment on this ****ing forum.

Not everything in the world needs to be instant and you should try having some patience.

Yes.

Some of them work, some of them don't. YMMV

Scrod,

Have a Redline 925 with stock Vero cranks with 110 bb (I think). Could I swap out with some Andels and their bb and keep the same chainline?

Yes.

As long as you use the spindle length recommended for any crankset you buy, your chainline will be the same (or really damn close).

Good lord, man. What are we paying you for, anyway? :lol:

If I were after a 1" threadless / 25.4mm clamp stem what would you recommend?

I'd recommend buying a 1 1/8" stem and using a shim.

Hey Scrod, is the only difference between the Deda RMH01 or RMH02 the top of the bars? the 02 is flat and the 01 is round like traditional bars?

You got it.

Can you recommend me tires that'll blow Conti Ultra Sports out of the water in terms of... Everything? Should I just spend the $100+ on Hardshells?

Ultrasports are bunk. Hardshells are very durable but offer a pretty unforgiving ride. I have a pretty good idea of how I'll answer but what are you looking for specifically?

Please check the retrogression thread in the market place.

Thanks Dan.

No prob.

My bad, didn't know about that thread.

It's mentioned in the very first post of this thread.

Something with RiBMo (so far my favorite tire, 0 flats for 2 year old tires) level protection but rolls faster. Comfort can be a factor, but not necessary.

Not scrod, but did you make sure you installed a spacer (probably 2.5mm) on the non-drive side between your GXP cup and your BB shell?

First of all, you're right. You're not me. If you could refrain from answeing quesions in my thread - especially ones I've already addressed - that would be great.

Secondly, you're not supposed to use spacers on the GXP BB that comes with Omniums because it will prevent the non-drive side arm from bottoming out on the spindle, as it was designed to do when properly installed. I don't know why people insist on telling everyone to use spacers.

The chainline is not even close without a spacer on the NDS, at least in my case. I have a 68mm bottom bracket shell and I've used two different GXP bottom brackets with the same result.

If I am spreading misinformation I am sorry. but this is the setup that works for me. I am not the official SRAM messenger.

EDIT: FWIW I am using the 2012 Omniums.

Another edit: Also, I acknowledge at this point that the reason this thread exists is so that people can get your opinion (and yours alone) on their issues. This issue doesn't seem to be cut and dry so I thought I would chime in. I'm done now, so carry on. Once spring starts and I get a reason to tear everything down and clean it out, I'll try again without spacers and see what it looks like.

It doesn't matter what year your Omniums are. You're not supposed to use spacers because the included BB was designed for use on a 68mm shell and the spindle attached to the drive side arm's length reflects that. Unless you have a way of magically lengthening the spindle to compensate for the 2.5mm spacer, you can't properly install the non-drive side arm when using a spacer on either side.

Also, would you mind telling me how putting a spacer on the NDS would possibly have any effect on chainline? Here in the dimension where I live, it wouldn't.

What chain would you recommend most for street use?