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That's pretty vague. Two of my favorites are the KMC D-101 and K-710SL. Izumi Eco chains are actually really good too.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15314890)
Also, would you mind telling me how putting a spacer on the NDS would possibly have any effect on chainline? Here in the dimension where I live, it wouldn't.
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Originally Posted by calv
(Post 15313523)
Something with RiBMo (so far my favorite tire, 0 flats for 2 year old tires) level protection but rolls faster. Comfort can be a factor, but not necessary.
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That's funny, I was going to suggest Ribmos. If you keep them inflated a wee bit over recommended PSI, they roll pretty damn fast.
Durano Plus is also a really good choice. Not as meaty as Ribmos but extremely durable. |
Forget it, I won't **** with whats not broken.
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I love my durano plus, theyre fast as **** and havent been stabbed yet
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15316159)
That's funny, I was going to suggest Ribmos. If you keep them inflated a wee bit over recommended PSI, they roll pretty damn fast.
Durano Plus is also a really good choice. Not as meaty as Ribmos but extremely durable. |
hi scrod did you miss me?
anyways, your thoughts on hutchinson tires? ive got a set of fusion 3's is got a deal on and so far i love them, smooth comfy and roll pretty well. Just curious if youve had experience with them and likes or dislikes, durability ect.... ive read some good reviews throughout the web but would like to here what you think. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15289948)
Dude's wasted.
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Is it better to have a large front gear with a bigger rear than to have the same ratio but with smaller gears? E.g. 53/13 = 4.08/1 or 44/11 = 4/1
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
(Post 15317580)
hi scrod did you miss me?
anyways, your thoughts on hutchinson tires? ive got a set of fusion 3's is got a deal on and so far i love them, smooth comfy and roll pretty well. Just curious if youve had experience with them and likes or dislikes, durability ect.... ive read some good reviews throughout the web but would like to here what you think. |
Originally Posted by bwilli88
(Post 15318166)
Is it better to have a large front gear with a bigger rear than to have the same ratio but with smaller gears? E.g. 53/13 = 4.08/1 or 44/11 = 4/1
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post15286520 |
Lol
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This is random, but..
Do you have any car dealer stories to tell? :lol: |
Yo Scrod - I'm trying to remember the name of a company that was making super-compact bike boxes for flying. I remember people buying them back in 2004. Small enough that you had to take the crank and fork off, but worked well. Any idea what I'm talking about?
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Someone asks you for SIS shift cable housing for one bike. How many inches do you give them?
Then they tell you it's for a tri bike w the shifters out on aero bars does the answer change? |
Scrod, looks like I owe you an apology - tried removing the spacer from my GXP BB and it reassembled fine. Thanks for setting me (and others) straight.
I think I may have been misremembering how it actually happened at installation time back when I got it. I got the frame new and was anxious to get riding - the BB shell was never faced, and a shop I took it to for the headset installation told me I didn't need to worry about it. When I went to install the BB, it would bind up when I tightened the crank arm down all the way. I looked around for instructions and saw the junk about the spacers, but after installing spacers on each side, the chainline was obviously off. I took the spacer off the drive side, which corrected the chainline, and kept the spacer on the NDS, which removed the binding issue. I've since had the shell faced but didn't think much of the spacer when I put it back together. However, now it seems to not bind without the spacer, so I would guess that the slightly narrower faced BB shell allowed the crank arm to seat fully without impacting the bearing seal. Thanks again! |
Scodsie poo - can you recommend me a "decent" fixed wheelset for less than $150 - has to be all black. Thanks bbgrl.
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Originally Posted by Bat56
(Post 15321466)
Someone asks you for SIS shift cable housing for one bike. How many inches do you give them?
Then they tell you it's for a tri bike w the shifters out on aero bars does the answer change? |
Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
(Post 15321406)
Yo Scrod - I'm trying to remember the name of a company that was making super-compact bike boxes for flying. I remember people buying them back in 2004. Small enough that you had to take the crank and fork off, but worked well. Any idea what I'm talking about?
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Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15327875)
Scodsie poo - can you recommend me a "decent" fixed wheelset for less than $150 - has to be all black. Thanks bbgrl.
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Originally Posted by boom
(Post 15325526)
Scrod, looks like I owe you an apology - tried removing the spacer from my GXP BB and it reassembled fine. Thanks for setting me (and others) straight.
I think I may have been misremembering how it actually happened at installation time back when I got it. I got the frame new and was anxious to get riding - the BB shell was never faced, and a shop I took it to for the headset installation told me I didn't need to worry about it. When I went to install the BB, it would bind up when I tightened the crank arm down all the way. I looked around for instructions and saw the junk about the spacers, but after installing spacers on each side, the chainline was obviously off. I took the spacer off the drive side, which corrected the chainline, and kept the spacer on the NDS, which removed the binding issue. I've since had the shell faced but didn't think much of the spacer when I put it back together. However, now it seems to not bind without the spacer, so I would guess that the slightly narrower faced BB shell allowed the crank arm to seat fully without impacting the bearing seal. Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15327891)
Need more details than that, hombre. Box section, 30mm, 42mm, sealed hubs, etc?
BASICALLY - I was thinking of upgrading the beater with a new wheelset - something like the Alex + forumula combo you have on the RG site, but now I'm wondering if I should just keep my Hour as-is and put that money towards another bike. |
Bianchi super pista vs one of the cinellis vs a gazzetta
Which would you recommend most for weight, ride quality, stiffness, and money? I'm leaning towards super P. |
Originally Posted by FixedDriveJess
(Post 15328102)
Bianchi super pista vs one of the cinellis vs a gazzetta
Which would you recommend most for weight, ride quality, stiffness, and money? I'm leaning towards super P. |
Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15327932)
Uhhh, they have to fit on my Windsor Hour - and preferably work with a front brake? (I'm still learning all of this bicycle knowledge, pretty ignorant when it comes to wheelsets, forgive me).
BASICALLY - I was thinking of upgrading the beater with a new wheelset - something like the Alex + forumula combo you have on the RG site, but now I'm wondering if I should just keep my Hour as-is and put that money towards another bike. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15328215)
The Alex/Novatec set is much better. It's got machined sidewalls though.
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It means you can use a brake.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15328395)
It means you can use a brake.
Since they are machined - does that mean they aren't 100% blacked out? Do they have a silver strip around where the pad would touch? Thanks again for the help mi amigo - i appreciate it. |
Originally Posted by SSbalt
(Post 15328420)
Since they are machined - does that mean they aren't 100% blacked out? Do they have a silver strip around where the pad would touch?
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