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That's what I thought-- I've had leader frames and none had this type of problem, so I was pretty unhappy.
I have contacted them, I'll update with results when I get a response. Thanks for your input as well JDT! |
i'm looking to upgrade a crankset (chainring has a lot of high/low spots) and overall it's a stock lower quality set. everyone is in love with omniums but i don't think i have the legs or budget to warrant spending that kind of money on the stiffest track crank i can find. or maybe it's not about ability, and the stiffness is worth it in the long run for quality…. any thoughts or recommendations?
also i'm getting a lot of noise off the chain. part of the issue was the chainring. i swapped it out for a sugino ring i had on an older bike which quieted the crank up. the generic cog in the back is still pretty noisy. i double checked the alignment of the crank/cog so the chain is straight and greased it, and the tension is even but it still sounds like i've got a baseball card in the spokes. any cogs you've used that seem quieter than the rest? |
An update to the 2015 leader 725 frameset I received: Alex from Leader bikes has told me that both the inch long scratch on the fork (that I can run my finger over and feel an obvious skip/crevice) and the craters/pinholes on the frame are purely cosmetic; they will not be replacing any parts. The best they can do is have me pay for return s/h and refund me. To be fair, the head badge is also falling off, and they have sent me a new one to replace it.
Overall, I'm pretty dissatisfied. No leader frame I had before had those holes in the bb shell, brake bridge, and down tube/head tube connection area (found a new one there..) and it bums me out to know I paid for a new frame that has those things. I respect their decision, but begrudgingly so. Just wanted to fulfill my update on the situation. Edit: I should also add that I spent over an hour trying to fish out a foreign object out of the seatstay through the tiny vent holes. Every time I moved the frame it would make a sound. Turns out it was a piece of welding that came loose and was rattling in there. |
I can almost understand them saying that about the welds, if it really is cosmetic.
But if you buy a 500 dollar frameset, I think you deserve a fork that doesn't have a gash down it........... just my two cents /notscrod |
Originally Posted by cestlaguerre
(Post 17077706)
i'm looking to upgrade a crankset (chainring has a lot of high/low spots) and overall it's a stock lower quality set. everyone is in love with omniums but i don't think i have the legs or budget to warrant spending that kind of money on the stiffest track crank i can find. or maybe it's not about ability, and the stiffness is worth it in the long run for quality…. any thoughts or recommendations?
also i'm getting a lot of noise off the chain. part of the issue was the chainring. i swapped it out for a sugino ring i had on an older bike which quieted the crank up. the generic cog in the back is still pretty noisy. i double checked the alignment of the crank/cog so the chain is straight and greased it, and the tension is even but it still sounds like i've got a baseball card in the spokes. any cogs you've used that seem quieter than the rest? Also, your chain could just be too tight. Regarding the crankset, if you don't want to spring for Omniums or think they're unnecessary and still want something good having 144bcd, pick up a set of Andels or the IRD Defiant (depending on which aesthetic you're going for). |
thanks for the suggestion. I'll try the eai cog and check on my chain tension and see if it helps.
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Hey Scrod,
There is another problem that I found with the 2015 Leader 725 frame. The bottom bracket is welded badly and is not round: Picture 1 Picture 2 This frame wasn't bought off their eBay site-- I am aware those framesets are not warranted. I ordered this off their official website, and with the slew of problems I've been mentioning earlier, I'm really questioning why they're so reluctant to replace the frame. Do any 725's at your shop have this, or have I been shipped an eBay-worthy frame? Thanks! |
None of the 2015 leader frames I've seen have any of the issues you are describing.
Also, I don't work for Leader so I suggest taking this up with them (again). |
Have you heard of any issues with the Andel deluxe track bb? I'm looking into both Andel's but don't want the issues some of the Sram ppl have had with the outboard bb.
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I've put quite a few on customers' bikes and haven't heard any complaints.
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Scrod, you know a fair bit about Leader's merchandise...
what's the bottom bracket shell width on the 2015 Leader 735 frames? I'm trying to select a BB and crankset that will fit properly. |
Originally Posted by Owlex
(Post 17088819)
Scrod, what's the bottom bracket shell width on the 2015 Leader 735 frames? I'm trying to select a BB and crankset that will fit properly.
2015 Leader 735/I806 frameset | Retrogression |
Hey do you stock the gum hood version of the Cane Creek SCR-5?
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Originally Posted by cosmicwheelie
(Post 17089191)
Hey do you stock the gum hood version of the Cane Creek SCR-5?
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 17089080)
See bottom of the RG webpage for the very obvious answer:
2015 Leader 735/I806 frameset | Retrogression |
Thanks for the answer, guys. First time I've been on the RetroGression site. Looks like some pretty good prices across the board on there.
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Second question, maybe also one I should know the answer to... what benefit does a powerspline-style spindle BB give over a standard square one? It would seem to me that going the powerspline route really only limits you in the long run in terms of what cranks can be put on, etc.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17089709)
SCR-5 levers are only available with black hoods but gum hoods can be bought separately. My shop stocks them for $12.
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[MENTION=164476]Scrodzilla[/MENTION]
did they change the scr-5 levers? because i got mine from you iirc and theyre the gum jobs |
I was reading a climbing thread on FG & heard mentioning of gi & "hear in the 70 - 80 range". Would anyone mind explaining this to me?
Sorry for the redundant/scrub questions :p:innocent: |
Originally Posted by Mumonkan
(Post 17091112)
@Scrodzilla
did they change the scr-5 levers? because i got mine from you iirc and theyre the gum jobs |
Originally Posted by Owlex
(Post 17090640)
Second question, maybe also one I should know the answer to... what benefit does a powerspline-style spindle BB give over a standard square one? It would seem to me that going the powerspline route really only limits you in the long run in terms of what cranks can be put on, etc.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17091278)
There's really no benefit, just Sram trying to reinvent the wheel (or crankset, in this case) as they often do.
I'll probably be ordering the Andel 110mm bottom bracket from your site, then. Cheers. |
What crankset will you be using? BB spindle length is determined by the crankset, not the frame.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17092051)
What crankset will you be using? BB spindle length is determined by the crankset, not the frame.
correct. I was planning to use the corresponding 110mm Andel cranks, unless you'd recommend otherwise? |
Originally Posted by Cortet
(Post 17091178)
I was reading a climbing thread on FG & heard mentioning of gi & "hear in the 70 - 80 range". Would anyone mind explaining this to me?
Sorry for the redundant/scrub questions :p:innocent: |
Miche Pistard Track Bike Fixed Gear Wheelset TUBULAR [1551V0000000T] - $259.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
or H + Plus Son Archetype Black Formula Track hubs Wheelset [74106] - $235.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike i've seen some complaints about the formula rear track hub. but being as their getting rebranded by various companies maybe it's just a matter of more units on the street leaving more reviews overall than the pistard? idk. haven't found many gripes about the miche other than people complaining about the weight (which is half the weight my current set, even if heavier than the current lightweight standard). a lot of solid reviews on city use; wheels staying true and hubs running smooth. what's your opinion? |
My opinion is that using tubulars on the street is stupid. Miche Pistard wheels are excellent but unless you plan on only using them at the track, get the clincher version.
Formula hubs are fine. The complaints you see online typically come from idiots who don't know how to properly install a cog and lockring, which will ruin any hub in the same manner. |
Thank you, I found that in the stickies (first place I should of really checked) & seen it. I was going to say something, but figured the question may be ignored because the question has been asked a million times before.
if this question has already been answered in a sticky then just tell me banana split, but what makes certain frames, forks, or parts more wanted than others? Would it be how the durability on it is? The lightness of it? I'm going to be slowing upgrading my Felt bike and was looking at the building a FG on a budget & reading off the different parts & stuff. I still have much research to go, thought I would ask as I go. Thank you in advance! |
I didn't even realize the link was tubular. haha, I'm actually planning on ordering from retrogression but didn't want to bias out the opinion by making one of the options your own shop. thanks for the feedback man. I'll be handing over my paycheck to you soon enough
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