Alright, thank you! Too bad I didn't order it from your shop (didn't find it online). I told them twice that it's for SRAM

Hi there,
I am looking to purchase a new fork for my 49cm pake rum runner. I am currently on Pake's straight fork (383mm). I noticed your straight-blade lugged fork ($68 1-1/8) has 365mm axel to crown length. According to those measurements, your fork will lower the front end by about 18mm. Is that right? My goal is to drop the front end as much as possible to minimize the top tube slope. Any thoughts or recommendations?
Thanks.

It seems like you've already answered your own question.

My quick release on my front brake came loose. It doesn't work smoothly now, I don't know where the spacer and washer should be behind the lever. I see the one silver washer has a little notch on it that matches a little notch on the brake arm itself. I don't know where these should be positioned before I tighten the allen bolt down. I have it semi working, I can't find anywhere online that shows you how to adjust it. Sorry if i'm bad at describing the problem lol. I have take pictures if need be, but i'm sure you get me.

:EDIT I think I got it, you can disregard this post. I just kept messing with it.

hey man dont mean to bother you. but i have a 2012 flite 100 size 57 frame. i royally ****ed the fork up and am in need of a replacement. any idea what replacements would work best when one is used to the stock fork with a 28 mm rake? finding it very difficult to find a replacement stock fork here in toronto. also my chain keeps slipping off; being the reason i need a new fork.. (and also a new rear wheel, somehow front made it through ok) but anyway the bearings on the rear wheel were kinda messed up and it wasnt spinning properly. could it have been seizing and caused the chain to have jumped off? the chain was tight, checked that morning. also when tightening the nuts on the wheels to the frame. i tightened them fairly tight but did not want to over tighten them. is that possible? or should i just tighten them as much as possible pretty much? after the incident rear wheel was little bent anyway so couldnt tell if it slipped from before or after. sorry for all the question man but have been on a bunch of the forums and you always have a straight input and the most reasonable and understandable answer.


thanks

Pat yourself on the back. It's been quite a while since I've read a post that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever.

Order placed. Thanks!

well thanks for the help... what doesnt make sense? the chain popped off in the middle of traffic causing me to crash and **** up the fork and i am wondering what would be a good replacement? i am not sure what companies make 28 mm rake forks and its proving hard to find that out. and i would also like to know why the chain popped off so many times if it was tight.. was the back wheel seizing? or did the wheel have to have slipped forward?

Finding this literally took less than 5 seconds.

I honestly don't understand how you can expect me to diagnose what's wrong with your bike over the internet. Go to a bike shop.

It's Not About The Bike

Hey scrod,

Is the lockring threading on grandcompe hubs the standard 1.29"x 24 tpi?

Yep.

Hey Scrod,

What do you think of the 2014 725 frames compared to the 2013 ones? I'm looking at this set , and the seller told me I could replace the 2013 matte gray frame with a 2014 matte purple frame free of charge, since they sold out of the gray frame. Do you think I should go for it?

Thanks!

The only difference between the 2013 and 2014 frames is the decals.

Also, the seller (coghouse5) is Leader.

I see you swapped out for a 2014 purple frame! I'd like to think my post contributed somewhat to that, mine is on the way

the purple looks awesome!
dunno how it's gonna look with the seafoam green fork though. post up some build pics.

Scrod, can you tell everyone to stop getting purple Leader frames? It's reducing my uniqueness stock index.

Also WTH is going on with the huge gap between my dust cap and bearing cup? It's a 45 x 45 degree integrated headset bearing (caged ball type). You think a sealed bearing type will help shorten the gap?

Take the cap off and post a pic of what's going on underneath it.

Compared to the Campy Hiddensets I've seen, it almost looks like that's the wrong compression/centering ring for that headset. If it is the correct one, you may need to tap it down before putting on the dust cap. Either that or your top bearing is installed upside down.

The guy I bought the bike from seemed like a pretty capable guy but it's possible it was set up incorrectly. If I can't figure it out I'll just get a Campy compatible sealed bearing headset and replace it. Thanks

Scrod,

Do you think that the the kevlar bead in the Pasela PT tire is worth the extra $12 vs. the wire bead. I've never used a kevlar tire and am just curious if the weight difference is noticeable at all? I would be throwing them on my Bareknuckle and since you have done the same your opinion would be appreciated.

Also while I'm here, off the top of your head do you know of any compact drops other than Soma Hwy One that fit 26.0??? I really want to try a pair but I'd rather spend my money on tires or handlebars over a new stem.

Even experts get it wrong from time to time. Give Scrod's suggestion a try then, if the guy's a mate, you'll have something to tease him about

I typically use the steel bead version because I'm not a weight weenie and they're a little easier to put on.

What's wrong with the Soma bars? I think they're really nice.

Deda made a compact drop called the Piega that ran around 30 bucks if you can still find them. There's also the Civia Emerson (which are the same exact bars as the HWY ONE with different branding).

Scrod, non bike question here.

Do you use any products for your awesome beard?

I've started growing one (about 3 months in) and I'm bombarded with all of these products I'm told I need for a good beard, much like when I began riding bikes