There's no such thing as a '722TS Heritage'. The original 722TS was replaced by the Heritage Edition and Heritage LO.

FWIW, those shops are clueless. Leader is out of stock.

All new frames coming will be 2015 models. I have no idea what colors will be available.

I see, whats the difference between the 722TS and the new Heritage? Or is the TS the original 722? I know the original 722 didn't have that seat tube cut out for tire clearance. Thanks for the clear up Scrod, guess I have to wait until Aug/Sept to order a new frame.

You just answered your own question.

There's a Campy Nuovo Tipo front hub at a local bike coop for $50. I'm gonna start building a new wheelset sometime in the near future. Is the Campy worth it or am I better off with a modern hub (Surly, All City, etc.)?

Scrod,

have you seen drop outs like this on an all city big block?

shouldnt there be a gap on the bottom?

i found this frame for a steal, It is the silver/grayish model

Nuovo Tipo was the at the bottom as far as Campy hubs go. Personally, I'd pass.

That's what they've all looked like for quite some time. They did away with the cutout because idiots were trick riding on their frames and breaking them.

Dearest Scrod,

I have been off of the forums for a few years and somehow stumbled back here. Do you still have that set of dreadlocks?

Welcome back!

I cut my dreads off when I arrived in San Diego back in November but am in the process of growing them back. I still feel naked without them but needed a fresh start.

Dear Scrod,

If I replace this fork with this fork, what difference am I going to feel riding? Only difference looks like 30mm rake vs. 35mm rake. Will that be noticeable when riding and how so?

I'm trying to find a fork suitable for running a brake with. I've read online of people drilling the Alpina F04 forks and saying that it isn't too hard, but I don't have the tools in my apartment to drill it myself and I've heard that some bike shops won't mess around with drilling and possibly ruining a perfectly good fork. Do you have any experience or knowledge/opinions on drilling an Alpina fork?

Just curious if it'd be worth getting it drilled (if I can find anyone to do it) or just getting a pre-drilled fork and what my best options are getting close to the 30mm rake of the Alpina. I can't find a whole lot of other carbon blade/alu steerer forks that are drilled w/ 30mm rake. I don't think the Leader forks will work since my frame isn't an integrated headset.

Thanks for any help you can provide Scrod

Stephen Dolan has personally told me that he strongly advises against drilling the F04. I've encountered two people who have tried it and (you guessed it) ruined their forks.

You most likely won't notice a difference. 5mm is pretty slight. If you do buy that Columbus fork and want me to remove the plug for you, let me know.

Hey Scrod,

Just to double check before I 100% commit-- do you suggest I go for the newer 2015 leader 725 or the 2014 version? I remember you saying something a while back about the 2013 725 being one of the best frames that Leader had produced, and since the 2014 version is essentially the 2013, should I stick with the tried and true? I realize you may not have tested/heard of any experiences with the 2015 since it's so new, but thought I'd ask here anyways.

I'm more concerned about functionality then cosmetics, just in case looks would play a factor in your decision.

Thanks again!

thanks for the info Scrod. I did go ahead and purchase the Columbus fork (along with a BB and seatpost collar) from you Scrod and would love for you to remove the plug. I apologize now for the overkill on messages, because I did message you through the website asking the same thing. If you can't tell I'm a little excited to get this new build finished and riding. Thanks again for all the knowledge and help.

Seems like my rear phil hub is loose. Wiggles ever so slightly and it's killing me. Assuming you've done this a bajillion times, how do I tighten this up? Never really worked on a hub before.

https://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSAinstructions.pdf

My god that tutorial is beautiful. Now I want Phil hubs even more.

Hey Scrod, just in case you missed this

The 2014 model is just about all gone so finding one in the right size/color may be difficult at this point.

I have a 2015 prototype 735 here at the shop and despite the tapered head tube and mega-oversized fork crown (which I'm not particularly fond of on any frame), it looks like a great frame.

I have a question for you Scrod, I don think anyone has asked before but who knows. Who have you looked up to in the bicycle world since you were young or currently?

So what I'm taking for this is that I should take off the bolts, grab two 8mms and tighten that part (instead of loosen, like it shows in the tutorial)?

Use your judgement.

As weird as it sounds, nobody comes to mind (Sheldon Brown goes without saying.). I thought the dude who owned the BMX shop in my neighborhood when I was kid was a rad guy but that's really about it.

I'm my own hero, my own master.

I have the 2014 frameset already, but I'm not sure if I want to sell it for a 2015 one (I would be getting the 2015 frame for about the same cost as I sold the 2014 for). Thoughts? It seems like you might favor the 2014 one a bit more, but that makes sense since 2015 is super new.

Ok, literally in the middle of that part. How tight do I want them?

Tight enough so there's no play in your hub.