Hey Scrod,

Regarding cogs-- I'm planning on running a 1/8 cog, do you suggest EAI or All-City Standard? Checked out your PR and saw you used the latter, would you recommend it over EAI?

Thanks!

Scrod, looking at forks for a leader 725 that will be strictly street ridden, would a 43mm rake be a bad idea? It was just mentioned in a thread that it might make handling unstable. I tried doing research but it seems like some people think the bigger rake is okay if ridden in the streets. Would it be best to stick with the leader forks that have a 28 mm rake?

are you following the tdf, scrod?

After doing more research I think I found my answer, would probably be best to stick with a fork around 28 to 30 rake. Looks like the leader i806tr would be the best bet.

I've used both and they're both good cogs. EAI is a little quieter.

No.

Agreed. 43mm rake will make that frame ride weird.

oh okay.

It may be "sacrilege" because I'm a shop owner and all but the Tour de France really doesn't interest me at all. I'd honestly rather watch a knitting competition.

i was immediately surprised when i found out that this was a thing, then i realized this is america and everything is a thing

Well, first off most bike shops show interest in the TdF because it helps them sell merchandise, nothing more. Second, bicycle road racing is a very poor spectator sport. Track racing is far better, since it is essentially a stadium sport. Events like the TdF interest me, only because I have participated in those types of races, and appreciate what is involved.

Hey Scrod, whats the difference between the leader i803 and the leader i805? worth it to just get the i805? not really considering the i806 since i would need a new headset for the carbon steerer

The I803 has thinner blades and looks more sleek. Weight, rake and axle to crown is the same as the I805.

Also, the I805 is out of stock until late August.

Hi Scrod,

Do you (or anyone else here) know what frame this is and if it comes as a complete bike. It reminds me of an orange creamsicle and I want to take a bite out of it each time I pass by it (at work).

Scrod,

Curious if you ever ride in the velodrome or if you strictly ride streets only?

Just the street.

Scrod,
How much free movement should there be as you begin to pedal before the chain engages fully?

Also, crunchy or creamy PB?

If your cog and lockring are installed properly, none.

Creamy all day long.

Not even enough to take up a little slack in the chain?

He didn't specifically ask about slack in the chain, he asked about the chain "engaging".

I need a threaded 1" headset with 38-39 mm stack height and don't want to pay an arm and a leg. I like the looks of the Tange Levin NJS, but I've had some people telling me needle bearings are the way to go and I should look into something like the Miche Primato headset. Any preferences/other suggestions for me, Scrod?

I was picturing him asking about a track stand kind of situation. It seems to me that if you track stand and there isn't a little bit of movement back and forth without the "chain engaging" then your chain is too tight. I took his question to mean "how far can you move the crank before the wheel is also moving." but you know best.

IRD Technoglide has a stack height of 35.9mm that is available either with sealed cartridge or caged ball/needle lower bearings. You could easily make up the difference with a small 1" headset spacer if you don't want to cut your fork.

I suppose only he knows what he meant. It often blows my mind that people can't figure out how tight their chains should be.

I would think Bill Nye would be able to figure that out on his own.

General physics I get. Bike physics though...

Anyway, I ask because I just built the bike, brand new chain, and I know chains stretch over time. When I started, the chain tension was pretty tight, but I think it loosened pretty quickly. The other day I was riding home and I went to start pedaling after stopping to drink, and it felt like the chain skipped and caught or binded, not sure I didn't see it, just felt the shudder. Just checking the tension it was much more loose.
The brief moment I was referring to before the chain "engages" was you when you're coasting and you go to pedal again, there might be this split second where there seems to be no resistance before it kicks in and you know you're putting effot into it. I'm guessing that's maybe some slack? I dunno.

maybe i'm crazy.