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Old 06-27-14 | 09:06 AM
  #8726  
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It took me a few days, but finally read this whole thread. Very entertaining! Learned a bit as well.

I do have 1 question, What would you recommend for a replacement BB for the GXP?
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Old 06-27-14 | 12:03 PM
  #8727  
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Hey Scrod,

I have a few quick questions:

1. After using the matte black Leader 725 for a couple years, did you notice any part of the matte finish turning glossy? I don't mind nicks or scratches, but an uneven finish is my pet peeve

2. I know you just installed the Tange-Seiki bb, but would you recommend it over the ProType one? In terms of feel/ durability, do you have any opinions either one?

Thanks!
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Old 06-27-14 | 12:32 PM
  #8728  
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Any matte finish will get glossy if repeatedly scuffed by clothing, shoes and whatnot. My black frame is a mess now but I like it.

We stopped carrying the ProType because the quality of the Tange-Seiki BB is much better so that should answer that question.
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Old 06-27-14 | 12:42 PM
  #8729  
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Originally Posted by jr59
It took me a few days, but finally read this whole thread. Very entertaining! Learned a bit as well.

I do have 1 question, What would you recommend for a replacement BB for the GXP?
You read the whole thread?

You really can't go wrong with the Phil Wood outboard bearing BB w/ Sram adapter.
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Old 06-27-14 | 01:03 PM
  #8730  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
You read the whole thread?

You really can't go wrong with the Phil Wood outboard bearing BB w/ Sram adapter.

Yes, the whole thing! But isn't that better than asking some lame type question that you have already answered about 10000000000000 times before?
Then you would have just told me to read page 1.


Thanks for the BB!
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Old 06-27-14 | 01:13 PM
  #8731  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
We stopped carrying the ProType because the quality of the Tange-Seiki BB is much better so that should answer that question.
Have you heard of complaints about the ProType BB ? I've had no problems with mine after several thousand miles of use.
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Old 06-27-14 | 01:36 PM
  #8732  
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No complaints from customers and the ones I've used on my own bikes were fine but I noticed several variances in the spindle length and taper. That's enough for me.
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Old 06-28-14 | 07:42 PM
  #8733  
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I am about to pull the trigger on most of a build kit, a few quick questions:

I am lacing h+son archetypes to all city new sheriff hubs (my first time building wheels). Have you built these recently? Averaging multiple calculators I come up with 287.64mm front and 287.1mm rear for spokes. I was thinking 287mm Sapim Lasers front and rear. Does this sound correct?

Also, any input on the Fyxation Rodeo Pursuit bars? Specifically 25.4 vs. 31.8 and stiffness. They look similar to Nitto RB-002s, which I currently have and love, but I really want to go to 31.8 unless they are overly stiff and harsh for typical city riding. 31.8 clamps seem to be the new standard and should be easier to mix and match stems and bars should the need arise (dial in fit, change to drops, etc...)


Thanks
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Old 06-29-14 | 11:25 AM
  #8734  
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287mm is what I'd use.

Regarding the bars, any handlebar having a 31.8 center will (in theory) be stiffer than one having a 25.4 or 26.0 center. Rodeo Pursuits do have more drop than the Nitto RB-002 and are a little closer to the RB-021.
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Old 06-29-14 | 02:52 PM
  #8735  
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Hey Scrod,

I recently bought a Izumi standard track chain from the shop, but cannot figure out how to remove the chainlink to make it a shorter chain. It seems like the rivet isn't popping through the chain. Am i suppose to just somehow ply it off the pivot?
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Old 06-29-14 | 10:13 PM
  #8736  
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I've never had any trouble using a chain tool.
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Old 06-30-14 | 04:25 PM
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Hey Scrod,

Do you have any input about tapered vs non tapered head tubes for fixed gear bikes?

Thanks!
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Old 06-30-14 | 04:51 PM
  #8738  
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Tapered head tubes seem to be all the rage for 2015 but I think it's a little unnecessary.

Is it stiffer, stronger, more cred-worthy, etc? Maybe, but I don't particularly care about the new fad. I ride fixed gear bikes on the street, not down the side of a mountain.
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Old 06-30-14 | 07:56 PM
  #8739  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Tapered head tubes seem to be all the rage for 2015 but I think it's a little unnecessary.

Is it stiffer, stronger, more cred-worthy, etc? Maybe, but I don't particularly care about the new fad.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the purpose of a tapered head tube to permit use of an integrated headset ? Why would an integrated headset be stiffer or stronger than a conventional external headset ? Other than the clean flush look and low stack height, what is the advantage ?
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Old 06-30-14 | 09:34 PM
  #8740  
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it allows the headtube to be the exact height you want it to be without having to factor in the height of a headset and the variable out there. so puts geometry into an exact instead of a near measurement.

-not scrod
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Old 06-30-14 | 10:26 PM
  #8741  
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the purpose of a tapered head tube to permit use of an integrated headset ? Why would an integrated headset be stiffer or stronger than a conventional external headset ? Other than the clean flush look and low stack height, what is the advantage ?
TT, I love you man...but you're slipping!

There are plenty of standard 1 1/8" head tubes that are designed for use with an integrated headset. A tapered head tube/steerer (like that on the Cinelli Parallax, countless modern mountain bikes and road bikes) is one that is 1 1/8" at the top and 1.5" at the bottom.

Just watch, it's about to become all the rage with aluminum track frames.



Originally Posted by craigcraigcraig
it allows the headtube to be the exact height you want it to be without having to factor in the height of a headset and the variable out there. so puts geometry into an exact instead of a near measurement.

-not scrod
This is a perfect example of why this is not the 'Ask craigcraigcraig' thread.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 06-30-14 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 07-01-14 | 06:12 AM
  #8742  
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dear scrod why does state bike co have a vidoe of their most expensive bike "undefeated" with rider doing skids in traffic in the middle lane or having uncapped handle bars in full kit bobbing and weaving in traffic. Why do they also not list a bb drop/height for their frames???

yours truly - genestarwand

ps. You should be a mod again.

Last edited by GENESTARWIND; 07-01-14 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:06 AM
  #8743  
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
dear scrod why does state bike co have a vidoe of their most expensive bike "undefeated" with rider doing skids in traffic in the middle lane or having uncapped handle bars in full kit bobbing and weaving in traffic.
.
because street cred

/notscrod
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:13 AM
  #8744  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Tapered head tubes seem to be all the rage for 2015 but I think it's a little unnecessary.

Is it stiffer, stronger, more cred-worthy, etc? Maybe, but I don't particularly care about the new fad. I ride fixed gear bikes on the street, not down the side of a mountain.
I could see the advantage of a larger diameter bearing at the bottom since it is the one the that takes the most punishment, particularly in an off road application as you mention above.

Is this design limited to frames with large diameter tubes, in particular the downtube, which also implies hydro-formed aluminium or carbon fiber?

You couldn't have this on a bike with "traditional" steel tubes, right?
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:34 AM
  #8745  
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scrod whats the point of having a ask scrod thread if others are going to answer for you.

ps.

I still think you should be a mod again.
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:43 AM
  #8746  
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Originally Posted by rex615
I could see the advantage of a larger diameter bearing at the bottom since it is the one the that takes the most punishment, particularly in an off road application as you mention above.

Is this design limited to frames with large diameter tubes, in particular the downtube, which also implies hydro-formed aluminium or carbon fiber?

You couldn't have this on a bike with "traditional" steel tubes, right?
I suppose a frame with smaller steel tubes could use a huge tapered head tube but that would be even sillier.
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:47 AM
  #8747  
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
dear scrod why does state bike co have a vidoe of their most expensive bike "undefeated" with rider doing skids in traffic in the middle lane or having uncapped handle bars in full kit bobbing and weaving in traffic. Why do they also not list a bb drop/height for their frames???

yours truly - genestarwand

ps. You should be a mod again.
I have no good answer for why State Bicycle Co. does what they do. Maybe they want fixie kids to die.

I don't ever want to "moderate" this forum again.
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Old 07-01-14 | 07:49 AM
  #8748  
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
scrod whats the point of having a ask scrod thread if others are going to answer for you.
I can't help it if people wish they were as cool as me.
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Old 07-01-14 | 08:03 AM
  #8749  
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damn you and your logical answers. Also not to answer without a question.

what are your thoughts on older shimano 600ex cranksets, Geared or used as single speed.

random: 107mm bottoms with shimano 600ex crankset give a good chainline for singlespeed or fixed gear purposes on the outer ring.

:edit for search purposes

Last edited by GENESTARWIND; 07-01-14 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 07-01-14 | 09:57 AM
  #8750  
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I'm still on the hunt for searching for a fixed gear bike. You appear to be looked upon as the Fixie god. Three of my lbs are wanting me to spend way more then my budget. Wanting to build me a bike using mainly all origin8 parts or surly. Another is throwing bikes at me around 8-1000. Are the bikes I'm looking at worthless? The lbs look at me like I'm crazy.

Budget. 5-600$

Bikes I am thinking about:
Khs 100
Rush hour
East side

I don't really want to jump on the kilo bandwagon.

This will be my first Fixie. Will mod it here and there.

Looking for some advice. Direction.

Thank you either way.
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