I'm not sure if I need new brakes or new levers. I have Tektro levers (hoods) and cheap tektro brakes.

when I apply the brakes the tension is hard no matter how I adjust the brakes. I am looking for something smoother like on my caad10.

my bike for reference.

Would the canecreek levers you sell be an improvement?

Since Scrod hasn't replied, I'll chime in with my 2 cents. More than likely the issue is with the brake cable and housing, and not the calipers or levers. What you perceive as "tension" is drag due to poor cable routing or cheap cables and/or housings. Also, you won't see any benefit in replacing the Tektro levers with Cane Creek, since they are essentially the same design and quality.

Sorry, man. I've been busy. What you're describing is one of those things I'd likely need to see in front of me to figure out but TT is probably right.

id also suggest juicin up all the hingey areas with some triflow, scrod asked if i had done that on the old dia compe brakes that were on the fuji when i found it, and it breathed new life into those bastards, good as new(ish)

Thanks guys. I'll give that a try. I think you're probably right about the poor cable routing.

Any brand cable/housing you specifically recommend? Truthfully, I have been using some cheap jagwire.

Nothing wrong with Jagwire, IMO.

Yeah, that's what I use. Works fine for me. Also, make sure you use a good quality cable cutter on the housing, and check for sharp edges at the ends.

This. After cutting the housing, always be sure to open up the ends before installing the inner cable or it will snag.

i recommend using the awl that came in your craftsman 104 piece toolset that sees no action, its the perfect tool

fwiw i use cheaper than jagwire cables and housing

cutting the housing with a bit of old cable in where the cut will be seems to help too.

Hey Scrod,
I just bought a used bareknuckle frame but I need to replace the fork that the previous owner had busted. I'm having trouble finding a place that sells the actual EAI fork. Do you know where I can order one? Or could you recommend a comparable cromo or carbon fork you have on your site. Thanks again.

I can get you a replacement fork but EAI only offers them in black. Either the Alpina or Columbus carbon fork we sell would also be a good option.

Do you know if the blue pake fork similar in color to the beautiful eai blue? Also would getting a fork with a 40 or 43mm rake be advisable seeing as the original fork rake is about 36?

Not scrod, but having just gone to a carbon fork, it makes a big difference, plus I'm sure scrod's recommending something that won't really compromise the bikes geometry or handling.

Alright thanks for the help!

Hi!

My stock Kilo TT has 48t/16t chainring/cog. I would like to upgrade the gear ratio for more skid patches, and lower ratio. I'm thinking upgrading the chainring to 45t will be the best bang for the buck. In my search, I found the Shimano Alfine S501 45t chainring for $26+$9shipping. https://goo.gl/e80jkv It's very hard to find a 45t chainring.

Would the above chainring work with my stock chain, and stock crankset? Any downside to having an odd number chainring tooth count?
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Thank you!

I'm assuming and hoping I won't need to replace the crank bolts.

Again not scrod, the alfine chainring is 3/32, which is perfectly fine to use with a 1/8 chain, just can't use a 3/32n chain with a 1/8 chainring/cog.

The blue is much different and aside from that, I simply won't allow you to put a crappy Pake fork on a Bare Knuckle.

Fair enough . Thank you so much for your help.

This may be unanswerable without seeing my bike in person but...What size recessed nut do I need to fix my (rear) brake to the fork on my stock Kilo tt?

The longest one you can find.

Before this question can be answered, you first need to determine how far the brake centerbolt extends inside the fork crown. It may not be long enough to catch at least a couple of threads in which case you won't be able to use it at all, regardless of the nut length.

It will most likely work. I've installed quite a few rear calipers on the front for people. Usually a 40mm nut will do the trick - unless it's a carbon fork with really this crown walls and then, as TT says, the threaded portion of the bolt won't reach the inside of the fork. That shouldn't be an issue on your Kilo fork though.

I'm running the stock fork. Thanks guys!