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Old 05-17-15 | 11:01 AM
  #9776  
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This is one of many reasons I would never buy a Kilo TT.
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Originally Posted by Dcv
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Old 05-17-15 | 01:22 PM
  #9777  
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Bikes: purty blue undefeated II 57cm

Yeah over sight on my part, didn't think to look at seat post diameter before buying. Kind of lame really.
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Old 05-23-15 | 09:14 PM
  #9778  
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Bikes: '96 Trek 800, '10 Specialized Allez (Steel), '17 Surly Steamroller

Scrod!

Interested in your thoughts on the Unknown Singularity vs. say a 725, generally.

I have a proportionally short torso and the shorter TT is appealing, unless I'm reading the geos wrong.

Thanks.
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Old 05-24-15 | 10:26 AM
  #9779  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Every Unknown frame I've ever seen has been a piece of garbage. If you're talking about the 2015 version of the Leader 725, those are garbage too (go back to page 387 of this thread if you want to see why I feel that way).

There are enough aluminum frames on the market to rule those two choices out. If you want a frame having aero tubing and a normally-proportioned top tube, get an Aventon Mataro.
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Old 05-24-15 | 09:44 PM
  #9780  
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Bikes: '96 Trek 800, '10 Specialized Allez (Steel), '17 Surly Steamroller

Duly noted.
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Old 05-25-15 | 11:33 AM
  #9781  
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From: The Bad Woods.
so in the last week a creak developed around the cockpit region of the trek when i pull up on the left side of the bars when im standing or crankin hard in general
naturally i tore the entire front end apart and i just spent the last hour narrowing it down to the headset area (threaded, 105)

after i took the fork out i noticed the cups had some play in the headtube, i jiggled them around and both of them can just be pulled out by hand

i greased everything metal:metal but obviously the cups are not supposed to be able to just come out on their own

am i gonna splode?
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Old 05-25-15 | 12:07 PM
  #9782  
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Hey man. I'm a total bike Noob. I was looking to buy this bike today:
Fixie
Think it's worth it?
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Old 05-25-15 | 12:08 PM
  #9783  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
so in the last week a creak developed around the cockpit region of the trek when i pull up on the left side of the bars when im standing or crankin hard in general
naturally i tore the entire front end apart and i just spent the last hour narrowing it down to the headset area (threaded, 105)

after i took the fork out i noticed the cups had some play in the headtube, i jiggled them around and both of them can just be pulled out by hand

i greased everything metal:metal but obviously the cups are not supposed to be able to just come out on their own

am i gonna splode?
I've seen a good number of older frames (my Raleigh among them) where the headset cups can be installed/removed by hand.

I would think the creaking is coming from your bars and quit stem. Grease that ****.
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Old 05-25-15 | 12:14 PM
  #9784  
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From: The Bad Woods.
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I've seen a good number of older frames (my Raleigh among them) where the headset cups can be installed/removed by hand.

I would think the creaking is coming from your bars and quit stem. Grease that ****.

i cleaned and greased everything on the front end even the skewer. so whatever it was has gone away, i just wanted to make sure i wasnt gonna die, grassy ass
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Old 05-25-15 | 03:21 PM
  #9785  
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Originally Posted by patelvr
Hey man. I'm a total bike Noob. I was looking to buy this bike today:
Fixie
Think it's worth it?
Nope.
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Old 05-26-15 | 07:03 AM
  #9786  
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Scrod can you tell me what handlebars you had on the EAI BK in this picture: Scrod's Bare Knuckle - Pedal Room ?

Edit: the link didn't go to the picture I had selected like I thought it would. I'm wondering about the riser bars you had in one of the "other photos."
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Old 05-26-15 | 09:51 AM
  #9787  
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The townie bars? Nitto B302-AA. They're on my Fuji now.
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Old 05-26-15 | 11:32 AM
  #9788  
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I should have known they were nitto!
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Old 05-26-15 | 12:58 PM
  #9789  
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From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty

Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

My drivetrain is really noisy and I already changed out my chain. Do you suppose it could be the cog?

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Old 05-26-15 | 02:25 PM
  #9790  
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A new chain on an oldler cog will almost always be a little noisy.
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Old 05-26-15 | 08:43 PM
  #9791  
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From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty

Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

It was a trick question. Prior to changing out this cog (but with a new chain), it was kind of quiet, except when I was just starting out or climbing a hill.... then it sounded like I was dragging a chain over the chain stay.

With a new cog is silky smooth.

First time I changed the chain after somewhere between 5000 and 10,000 miles... I guess I was due.
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Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
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Old 05-27-15 | 08:38 AM
  #9792  
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From: The Bad Woods.
do you know of anywhere that sells get these bars? theyre "GT DropTune UltraLight", made by FSA.
i can only seem to find them as part of a complete bike on GT's site, they dont even have it on their handlebar page so im not sure if theyre even available seperately



need.
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Old 05-27-15 | 08:54 AM
  #9793  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
do you know of anywhere that sells get these bars? theyre "GT DropTune UltraLight", made by FSA.
i can only seem to find them as part of a complete bike on GT's site, they dont even have it on their handlebar page so im not sure if theyre even available seperately



need.
How about a Salsa Woodchipper?

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Old 05-27-15 | 09:05 AM
  #9794  
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From: The Bad Woods.
i haz, theyre meant to be sorta like a jones loop when youre in the drops which would be higher relative to the seat, and they have a secondary outward flare where ends of the drops point out

these GT bars are basically just a road/cross drop where whole drop swings out but everything else is straight
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Old 05-28-15 | 07:33 PM
  #9795  
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From: San Jose, CA

Bikes: CAAD 10 4, Dolan DF4, Fuji Track Classic

Yo Scrod,

I had a nail go through the first wall of my Deep-V. Safe to ride, or replace? The hole is where the rim tape rests.
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Old 05-28-15 | 07:45 PM
  #9796  
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Originally Posted by Jaytron
Yo Scrod,

I had a nail go through the first wall of my Deep-V. Safe to ride, or replace? The hole is where the rim tape rests.
I vote perfectly safe. You've already got a bunch of much bigger holes for the spoke nipples to go through plus the valve hole, so an additional small nail hole should not matter at all. Also, most of the rim's strength is derived from the sidewalls, and the top section exists mainly to support the tube and resist tire bead side loads when inflated.
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What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

Originally Posted by Dcv
I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
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Old 05-28-15 | 08:54 PM
  #9797  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Yeah, you'll be alright.

Are you still on the Deep V wheelset you bought from me a few years back?
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Old 05-28-15 | 10:10 PM
  #9798  
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas

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Hey Scrod,
@sickz wanted to know if Soma tires like the Everwear are made by Panasonic. Are they ? Is Panaracer a division of Panasonic ?
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What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

Originally Posted by Dcv
I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me

Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 05-28-15 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 05-29-15 | 08:45 AM
  #9799  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Hey Scrod,
@sickz wanted to know if Soma tires like the Everwear are made by Panasonic. Are they ? Is Panaracer a division of Panasonic ?
All of Soma's tires are made by Panaracer. Panaracer=Panasonic.
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Old 05-29-15 | 09:49 AM
  #9800  
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thanks scrod. thanks tejano.

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