No prob!

hairnet - I believe you have a disorder.

I remember reading truing radially and laterally before getting much tension on the spokes because it is much easier beforw there is tension. Is that in your book, Scrod? I followed the lacing in Wheel Pro for my last wheel set bit didnt keep reading for it's truing/tensioning method.


I do have a disorder.

I usually check for radial and lateral trueness several times as I'm tensioning. Fixing radial problems after bringing a wheel up to full tension is a huge pain in the ass.

Without the pdf on hand, I seriously have no idea what this radial lateral mumbo jumbo is about..

Alright, good to know.

scrod you mentioned there was a good tool to use with the Park Tool BBT-22 once to make installed those BBs less of a pain in the ass. hopefully that was you at least, and hopefully you can let me know so I can stop this trying to use a wrench over it business.

Scrod,

I just completed installing my cog and 1/8" chain. What are some decent 1/8" cranksets? Coming from a Retrospec Beta, I assume I would need to change out the BB as well? I'm just curious to know what would work out.

Also, I'm trying to get some MKS-GR9 pedals/steel toe clips/ leather straps from your site, because I support Retrogression and not my overpriced LBS that sells Giant bikes/owned by a rude Korean. However, these items will be "secret santa" wishlisted, and the limit is 50 dollars. The items listed above are 54 shipped. Can we work out a way to have that amount as $50.00?

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=17658
/Da deputy

I hate doing this, but Scrod hasn't replied and I don't want you to **** your BB.

Grab a fully-threaded bolt with the same diameter and TPI as your BB, thread a nut all the way up to onto the bolt, thread that into the BB after putting the BBT-22 in place, snug the nut up to the BB tool, wrench on the BBT-22 until the threads break loose, remove the bolt and then finish it by hand. To reinstall, reverse the process.

Again, sorry Scrod. Had to.

/semireluctantnotscrod

hey scrod, no hard feelings i hope. as a recent fixed gear convert, im wondering if my frame is too small. seeing the photos above, i fitted my bike so that when i look down in drop position, my bars cover the front hub. its a 120 stem. could this mean that my frame is too small? does it really matter if i can get the right proportions through the stem length?

before i had a 1a cinelli stem on it, i think its a 100mm, but i found it too steep for street riding and too short for me.

i bought the frame on the cheap, really cheap and would hate to sell it as it is my dream frame.

oops, the pictures i was referring to are in the "today I" thread

I know you don't always drink beer, Scrod, but when you do, what kind do you drink?

jimmytango is right and there's no need to buy an additional tool. Read the pro tip on the RG site.

Actually, I do always drink beer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...F/official.jpg

Have you ever flattened a can of High Life and used it as a spoke card? I wouldnt ask if I havent seen it before

No.

Ah. That's the way, Patriot.

Scrod,

For some reason, whenever I pull up on my pedal straps (to skid or bring the cranks to a different position) they loosen significantly. Am I not looping them correctly? I can get a pic if that would help.

I have a feeling you may be looping the straps over the rollers before putting them through the toothed part of the buckle.

They should be under the rollers, through the teeth and secured with the retaining loop.

All three LBS's around here won't face Ti. What the noob. Now what?

The shop said it would probably be ok if I can get the fork to seat properly without any jiggling action or tight spots and that it shouldn't damage the frame unless the fork is jiggling around while I ride.

That's probably it. Here's a pic:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6...436e383c_b.jpg

Yup. They'll slip like crazy like that because those little teeth aren't even touching the straps. As I said, run the straps under the rollers and up through the teeth.

Great. Thanks!

Try this:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/binda.jpg

Pretty sure that's what I already explained. Twice.

yup. I re-routed the straps and everything is OK.

http://www.racingmix.com/wp-content/...oe_clips_a.jpg
/leuky
http://www.wordans.com.au/wordansfil...jpg?1295551558

scrod, the seatpost bolt on one of these 722s won't come out. I can turn it about 25% one way or the other and it gives the illusion of tightening it but doesn't actually clamp anything together (seatpost can still be moved around) and I can't loosen it enough to take it out and replace it with another one. Any solutions you know of for this?

Sounds like it's stripped. It won't come out?

yeah it won't come out but I can get a ****load of leverage it feels like. I avoid forcing it though just incase I may strip it further. I do about a quarter rotation to loosen it and then it stops. it's like the two sides are stuck inside each other without actually tightening the opening. if that makes any sense