Sorry for the late reply. Thanks Scrod, Markaitch and Striknein for the assists. I think I'm going to go with the Windsor Timeline with a wheelset and saddle swap. I'm still leaning towards the the juilian wheelset but I need to do a little more thinking on the velomine one cause I've heard nothing but good things about velomine. I really would prefer 48 spoke wheels. Anyhow, thanks guys...

Hey Scrod,
Can I use oversized bars on my kilo, provided I have a stem with the correct clamp size and a shim for the steerer tube? If so, will this affect the handling?

hi scrod i have a brake to brake lever question:

so i have some older but aero shimano 600 brake levers. no springs however. i dont think these ones came with them...

anywho i installed one to the front brake, an ultegra.
the lever return seems...clammy. like when you actuate it, it seems to be slow on the return. no me gusta.

its a new cable, and i've used a synthetic lubricant on all joints of the lever and brake. i would figure the brake lever itself would be spring enough to return the lever to position quickly.

any ideas?
or should i just bite the bullet and buy some newer, spring return brake levers?

Stem length will have an effect of handling, not switching to an oversize clamp.

Does the caliper release with ease when you squeeze it with your hand? If so, it's likely that those old levers are just worn - especially if you're using new cable/hosing with no kinks anywhere.

yah the caliper is real springy. which was why i was like WTF about the lever being so jammy. yah new cable, no kinks or anything. i guess the levers are just super old. oh well. a waste of 10 bux on ebay, i just thought the pantographed 'shimano 600' levers looked purty. i wonder if i can take those off and put on another hood or something.

probably just buy a new set of tektros or the new shimano ones. maybe teh cane creeks.

any suggestions for good hood brakes?

Sram!

+1

Oh yea I totally forgot about this.

The Cane Creeks SCR5's are nice, too. I have SCR5c's, which just have a more compact lever bend for smaller hands.

I love how hairnet keeps posting and deleting his posts. :lol:

Yeah, I havent been feeling very confident :o

My girlfriend clowns on how I edit my posts for the smallest things:crash:

TRP RRL's. seriously.

Man, no problem atall. I'm just happy you even helped lol. I built my rear wheel and decided to continue later. Spokes feel like noodles. How should o proceed now?

Slowly. Mark a starting spoke with a piece of tape and go around the wheel, tightening spokes as you go. Start off with one full turn of the nipple and repeat this until they start to get tighter. As they begin to tighten, start doing half turns, then quarter turns. Keep checking during this whole process that your rim isn't becoming egg-shaped and when necessary, refer to the book.

Thanks

No prob!

hairnet - I believe you have a disorder.

I remember reading truing radially and laterally before getting much tension on the spokes because it is much easier beforw there is tension. Is that in your book, Scrod? I followed the lacing in Wheel Pro for my last wheel set bit didnt keep reading for it's truing/tensioning method.


I do have a disorder.

I usually check for radial and lateral trueness several times as I'm tensioning. Fixing radial problems after bringing a wheel up to full tension is a huge pain in the ass.

Without the pdf on hand, I seriously have no idea what this radial lateral mumbo jumbo is about..

Alright, good to know.

scrod you mentioned there was a good tool to use with the Park Tool BBT-22 once to make installed those BBs less of a pain in the ass. hopefully that was you at least, and hopefully you can let me know so I can stop this trying to use a wrench over it business.

Scrod,

I just completed installing my cog and 1/8" chain. What are some decent 1/8" cranksets? Coming from a Retrospec Beta, I assume I would need to change out the BB as well? I'm just curious to know what would work out.

Also, I'm trying to get some MKS-GR9 pedals/steel toe clips/ leather straps from your site, because I support Retrogression and not my overpriced LBS that sells Giant bikes/owned by a rude Korean. However, these items will be "secret santa" wishlisted, and the limit is 50 dollars. The items listed above are 54 shipped. Can we work out a way to have that amount as $50.00?

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=17658
/Da deputy

I hate doing this, but Scrod hasn't replied and I don't want you to **** your BB.

Grab a fully-threaded bolt with the same diameter and TPI as your BB, thread a nut all the way up to onto the bolt, thread that into the BB after putting the BBT-22 in place, snug the nut up to the BB tool, wrench on the BBT-22 until the threads break loose, remove the bolt and then finish it by hand. To reinstall, reverse the process.

Again, sorry Scrod. Had to.

/semireluctantnotscrod

hey scrod, no hard feelings i hope. as a recent fixed gear convert, im wondering if my frame is too small. seeing the photos above, i fitted my bike so that when i look down in drop position, my bars cover the front hub. its a 120 stem. could this mean that my frame is too small? does it really matter if i can get the right proportions through the stem length?

before i had a 1a cinelli stem on it, i think its a 100mm, but i found it too steep for street riding and too short for me.

i bought the frame on the cheap, really cheap and would hate to sell it as it is my dream frame.