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Greased them up real good, couldn't get it to go on the non drive with just fingers (I probably have the hand strength of a child). It went with a wrench though.
Stupid thing is though, I didn't even have a reason to take them off other than to practice and do some minor cleaning. I just wanted to use the tools I got for my new build. |
any 31.8 silver risers you would recommend? any plans for an urban assault version with a silver finish?
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
(Post 13691194)
any 31.8 silver risers you would recommend? any plans for an urban assault version with a silver finish?
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I have black anodized sugino 75 and am considering trying to remove the black. Would this be a simple process, or would you say not to do it?
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Don't do it. Sell them and buy silver ones.
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Hey dude, got a mechanic question. Trying to help a friend figure out what's wrong with a bike. Once per revolution of the cranks, it feels like someone is smacking the rear wheel. It does it with or without weight on the bike, the bottom bracket was my friend's first thought, but it seems fine to me. My first thought was hub, but could it be something with the chain/cog? FYI: Stock Fuji Track Classic, around 500 miles, original everything.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13691568)
Look again. We've had silver in stock for quite some time.
which do you prefer, the urbans or the leaders |
hey scrod,
Do you have any experience with the Leader quill stem? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6061-ALU...3#ht_993wt_698 Its on the coghouse ebay page but not the actual site. It seems awfully nice. I especially like the 2 piece faceplate clamp. |
Originally Posted by BigglyPuff
(Post 13689663)
I'm trying to remove my Sugino RD cranks. I'm using the Park Tool CWP7, but I can't get the drive side crank off. I haven't tried the nondrive yet as I started with the drive side.
So I take the bolt out, thread in the crank puller all the way, although only with my fingers, and not with a wrench because I don't have a wrench large enough (could this be why?) and start turning the crank puller until it touches the bottom bracket. Then I try to turn it with a wrench, but I can't get past this point no matter how much force I put in. The thing ain't comin off. Any tips or ideas? My next step is to get a wrench large enough to really tighten the crank puller into the crank threads before I try to start removing. Some people said to tap it with a hammer, but that seems like a last resort to me. Have you tried a different extractor? |
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 13692465)
I'm not entirely clear on where the problem is, but one thing I've run into with the Park tool is that the piece that bears against the end of the spindle to push the arm off is sometimes too large to pass through the square taper in the crank arm.
Have you tried a different extractor? |
Originally Posted by hamfoh
(Post 13692348)
oh ****, perfect.
which do you prefer, the urbans or the leaders |
Originally Posted by jpsawyer
(Post 13692448)
hey scrod,
Do you have any experience with the Leader quill stem? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6061-ALU...3#ht_993wt_698 Its on the coghouse ebay page but not the actual site. It seems awfully nice. I especially like the 2 piece faceplate clamp. |
Y U NO ANSWER ME? You think I'm ugly don't you? That's why you don't answer my question.
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Sorry man...missed it. Without having the bike in front of me, I really have no idea what would cause such a thing.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13694072)
Sorry man...missed it. Without having the bike in front of me, I really have no idea what would cause such a thing.
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Perhaps.
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Scrod I remember you saying that the Miche BB was crap. Why?
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Because the adjustable cups don't like to stay tight and I'd rather ride my bike than be constantly fiddling with my BB.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13694072)
Sorry man...missed it. Without having the bike in front of me, I really have no idea what would cause such a thing.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13695522)
Because the adjustable cups don't like to stay tight and I'd rather ride my bike than be constantly fiddling with my BB.
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Have you ever seen a Miche BB?
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Scrod if you were to choose a truing stand for you to use at home which one would it be?
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The only one I've ever had is the Park TS-2 but for occasional home use, the TS-8 will work just fine.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 13695522)
Because the adjustable cups don't like to stay tight and I'd rather ride my bike than be constantly fiddling with my BB.
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Bad Miche BB reviews make me sad.
Miche Primato Evo Light for $55 or Campy Chorus for $78 + Campy BB tool $10 or more Pretty much the only new choices for my frame/cranks. What would Scrod do? I do have blue Loctite. |
Hello Scrod. Today I was putting on my KMC Z710 chain, but on my initial measurement I was 1 link short. I attempted to add a link on, but it was quite difficult to push the pin in with my crappy chaintool. At this point is was quite late so I went to a large sports store that deals with highend roadbikes to have it checked out. They proceeded to tell me I was sh*t out of luck and that it isn't recommended to add a link back to my chain. Is this correct with the KMC Z710 chain?
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I've read a lot of stuff about how you shouldn't add links or push the pins back in on the K710 and K710SL chains but I've done it a bunch of times and never had one fail.
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I agree. its amazing what you can do with a CT-3
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I prefer the Rivoli tool.
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