The Kilo TT from a newbie perspective
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
The Kilo TT from a newbie perspective
I normally hang out on the 50+ forum because well... I'm over 50. I normally ride a road bike but got interested in riding a single speed/fixed gear just because.
After lurking here for a bit, I decided on a kilo tt (note to other newbies, there was plenty of info and good advice available without having to write the much hated "what bike would you recommend..." post).
Dealing with Bikesdirect was fairly straightforward and the bike arrived in good condition.
I've only done minimal wrenching on my other bikes, but there was nothing too difficult in putting together the kilo. The most difficult part was cutting the brake cables the right length, and even that was no problem.
I did swap out the seat for another one I had, and also changed out the pedals, and installed an 18t single speed but everything else is still stock.
I've enjoyed switching back and forth between the ss and the fg to get used to fg riding. I find myself using the fg more and more(although I do have a piece of duct tape on my handle bar with the words "keep pedaling" written on them. When I was learning how to ride with clipless pedals I wrote "clip out!" to remember to clip out at stops). As far as quality, I think it is a great bike for the price, and the frame alone was worth the money paid. Other components are clearly much cheaper, but still work very well for starting out, and the bike rides well.
In sum
this forum has lots of good advice if you bother to look
The kilo tt is not rocket science to put together
the frame alone is worth the price
you will want to upgrade everything else sooner or later but start out with what comes with the bike
don't be afraid to try fixed gear, even if you are over 50
After lurking here for a bit, I decided on a kilo tt (note to other newbies, there was plenty of info and good advice available without having to write the much hated "what bike would you recommend..." post).
Dealing with Bikesdirect was fairly straightforward and the bike arrived in good condition.
I've only done minimal wrenching on my other bikes, but there was nothing too difficult in putting together the kilo. The most difficult part was cutting the brake cables the right length, and even that was no problem.
I did swap out the seat for another one I had, and also changed out the pedals, and installed an 18t single speed but everything else is still stock.
I've enjoyed switching back and forth between the ss and the fg to get used to fg riding. I find myself using the fg more and more(although I do have a piece of duct tape on my handle bar with the words "keep pedaling" written on them. When I was learning how to ride with clipless pedals I wrote "clip out!" to remember to clip out at stops). As far as quality, I think it is a great bike for the price, and the frame alone was worth the money paid. Other components are clearly much cheaper, but still work very well for starting out, and the bike rides well.
In sum
this forum has lots of good advice if you bother to look
The kilo tt is not rocket science to put together
the frame alone is worth the price
you will want to upgrade everything else sooner or later but start out with what comes with the bike
don't be afraid to try fixed gear, even if you are over 50
#2
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
Cor, a sensible first post. You won't last long mate 
Don't forget to join the 40+ thread.
How's the 50+ forum going these days? I used to be a regular there but got sick of reading about retirees with lots of time and money doing stupid distances every day on the latest kit so got grumpy and came here instead.

Don't forget to join the 40+ thread.
How's the 50+ forum going these days? I used to be a regular there but got sick of reading about retirees with lots of time and money doing stupid distances every day on the latest kit so got grumpy and came here instead.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 818
Likes: 74
From: In a van down by the river
Bikes: Bridgestone
Cor, a sensible first post. You won't last long mate 
Don't forget to join the 40+ thread.
How's the 50+ forum going these days? I used to be a regular there but got sick of reading about retirees with lots of time and money doing stupid distances every day on the latest kit so got grumpy and came here instead.

Don't forget to join the 40+ thread.
How's the 50+ forum going these days? I used to be a regular there but got sick of reading about retirees with lots of time and money doing stupid distances every day on the latest kit so got grumpy and came here instead.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,631
Likes: 328
I've only done minimal wrenching on my other bikes
#9
Am I the only one that doesn't like how the kilo rides? It feels sluggish and unresponsive. Granted I am used to my carbon, but even compared to the new on-one with 33s on it, kilo just seems ick
#10
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)

Actually, it's more likely your wheels but considering I haven't ridden either the kilo or your BMC and aren't likely to, you can assume I'm just having fun and not trying to make any serious point.
#12
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Trying to reuse a similar thread, apologies for the pseudo-hijack. I'm a #kilott newbie as well, and enjoying it so far. Set it up myself (except for the brake lines) and made sure I greased and tightened all the recommended parts. I'm having a couple of issues that I'm hoping to get your collective wisdom/advice on:
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
#13
The BB on my bike from bikes direct clanked and creaked; worked fine, but it annoyed me so I replaced it.
The headset is what I will replace next. Again, it's functional, but it clearly was not spec'd for its premium performance--it was spec'd because it was inexpensive.
If you're not picky, the parts work well enough. If you're picky, get out your wallet.
The headset is what I will replace next. Again, it's functional, but it clearly was not spec'd for its premium performance--it was spec'd because it was inexpensive.
If you're not picky, the parts work well enough. If you're picky, get out your wallet.
#15
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
Trying to reuse a similar thread, apologies for the pseudo-hijack. I'm a #kilott newbie as well, and enjoying it so far. Set it up myself (except for the brake lines) and made sure I greased and tightened all the recommended parts. I'm having a couple of issues that I'm hoping to get your collective wisdom/advice on:
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
#16
Banned.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 964
Likes: 2
Trying to reuse a similar thread, apologies for the pseudo-hijack. I'm a #kilott newbie as well, and enjoying it so far. Set it up myself (except for the brake lines) and made sure I greased and tightened all the recommended parts. I'm having a couple of issues that I'm hoping to get your collective wisdom/advice on:
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
1. I'm hearing a bit of creaking from the bb/crank area. I'm a heavy guy (north of 240 lbs) so I expect it a bit, but was wondering if I should do a full bb removal and regrease? Cranks were on super-tight already, and I do see evidence of grease applied to the bb, so I didn't think I needed to (also don't have the right tools yet).
2. The headset has a bit of give to it (rattles slightly over railroad bumps). I've tried tightening the top-cap (after loosening the stem), but I'm tightening it to the point that the front fork won't rotate back when holding the bike up.
I'm still doing final adjustments and dialing in my fit, but otherwise enjoying it so far. Thanks for all the info...
Anyway I am really posting about the creaking in the bottom bracket. This doest always solve the problem, but it is worth the try before taking the entire BB apart. Remove the seat post and pour a couple table spoons of 80 to 90 weight gear oil down it, should lube the BB if there is some drying of the grease.
#17
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
I dont have any of that on my "JUNK" Purefix and SE LAger.
Anyway I am really posting about the creaking in the bottom bracket. This doest always solve the problem, but it is worth the try before taking the entire BB apart. Remove the seat post and pour a couple table spoons of 80 to 90 weight gear oil down it, should lube the BB if there is some drying of the grease.
Anyway I am really posting about the creaking in the bottom bracket. This doest always solve the problem, but it is worth the try before taking the entire BB apart. Remove the seat post and pour a couple table spoons of 80 to 90 weight gear oil down it, should lube the BB if there is some drying of the grease.
#18
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I'd be tempted to let your lbs have a go at it. If the repairs are minor, they won't be expensive, if they aren't, it doesn't sound like you've got the experience to do them properly. One of the tricks is to know when to head to the lbs, it's just a case of learning your personal limit.
#19
Anyway I am really posting about the creaking in the bottom bracket. This doest always solve the problem, but it is worth the try before taking the entire BB apart. Remove the seat post and pour a couple table spoons of 80 to 90 weight gear oil down it, should lube the BB if there is some drying of the grease.
It takes ten minutes to pull a bb and regrease it.
#21
Banned.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 964
Likes: 2
IF you dont know the difference between 80 weight gear oil, kerosene and water,,,I guess there is nothing more to say lol
#22
The Viceroy
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: NSB,Florida
Bikes: SE PK Ripper FG,Trek Classic Steel, Free Spirit FG, Raleigh Pointe, Centurion Sport DLX, Schwinn CrissCross
Nah that would make too much sense. Why do they when be can pour liquids down our seat tubes and hope it fixes it for a trivial amount of time. Going straight to the root of the problem to inspect and fix it is just a silly concept, you silly person you.
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