Should I (2015) ?
#501
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
#502
Veteran Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Yeah, really. Being very short, the most seatpost I have above the clamp on any of my road or track frames is 100mm, and tyically it's more like 50mm. The only situation where a longer seatpost is needed is on my mtb's which have uber short seat tubes. So having 200mm to 300mm of hidden seatpost is pointless.
#503
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Yeah, really. Being very short, the most seatpost I have above the clamp on any of my road or track frames is 100mm, and tyically it's more like 50mm. The only situation where a longer seatpost is needed is on my mtb's which have uber short seat tubes. So having 200mm to 300mm of hidden seatpost is pointless.
I use one of these. Makes a really clean straight cut. Great for handlebars too. Leaves no burrs but I soften up the edge with a file anyway.
#504
Veteran Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Yeah, that's what I use too (tube cutter). The trick is to orient it so that the mushroomed part of the cut is on the piece that is cut off. Works great on any metal, but for carbon you need a carbon saw blade.
#506
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
#507
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
I don't like leaving burrs, scratches, stress risers, microscopic cracks, etc. These can turn into larger cracks and eventually cause the part to fail.
I've a little bit of a background in materials as an engineering tech a long time ago. I've watched enough engineers do failure analysis to be wary of just hacking a part that is intentionally made smooth to increase strength and durability.
This guy does failure analysis on bike parts including Thomson for a hobby - Cozy Beehive: Equipment Misbehavior
Using a pipe cutter shows that you have a minimum level of concern for your own safety and doing things right. Who knows what the previous owner did though - clamped the **** out of it into a vise, heated it, hacked it with a muffler cutter and ruined the temper, etc. We are talking about a used seatpost here and one made by a serious aerospace company.
I know lots of people do it. I know lots of people get away with it, I've never had a problem, my brother does it all the time, my cousin raced for years with hacked parts, etc. etc etc. blah blah blah. Just not me, that's all. Hacksawed seatposts belong in the jackass thread IMO. That's just me though.
Last edited by TimothyH; 08-12-16 at 01:33 PM.
#508
Senior Member
Should I build up my old Felt Brougham with this!?
https://www.crustbikes.com/products/clydesdale-fork
https://www.crustbikes.com/products/clydesdale-fork
#509
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
The cut is below the clamping area where there is no stress. A circumference cut at the non-stressed end will not initiate cracks to run up the shaft. It won't happen. Ever. Even if it isn't dressed. Which I do, and mentioned above. I dress the cut because I DO care about doing things the best they can be done.
A seat post is a piece of pipe. Cutting the unused end off with a pipe cutter is perfectly safe. And the right tool. I care about my safety. Fearing a cut seat post is bordering on paranoia.
Park sells tools for whacking off ends of pipe. Important pipe. That is then used as a clamping surface.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 08-12-16 at 02:44 PM.
#511
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
That you were actually smart enough to use a pipe cutter rather than clamping an aerospace quality part like a Thomson seatpost in a vise and cutting it with a hacksaw shows that you care a little bit about yourself.
People are free to do what they want. I worked in a materials testing lab am clearly ignorant of the subject. I'll do what I want. With all due respect.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 08-12-16 at 04:03 PM.
#512
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
#515
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1332 Post(s)
Liked 398 Times
in
194 Posts
Thanks dudes, wound up going with a Zipp post instead. And that Thomson is on Bike Recyclery if anyone wants it.
Last edited by seau grateau; 08-13-16 at 10:16 PM.
#516
:)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,420
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD12, Specialized Rockhopper, Norco Fluid FS1
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
tbh I'd rather use a hacksaw than the pipe cutter. That pipe cutter puts way more stress on the post than the clamp ever does with the park tool guide. Hacksaw also gives a much cleaner cut in my experience.
#517
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 516
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Found a reasonably priced frame, 7005 T-6, triple butted, and geo I'm ok with, but it's a no name brand
Have a preference for steel but thinking about trying an aluminum frame because why not.
So should I go for it, or is there anything else i should consider? I was under the impression that heat treated 7005 was a good material but does it vary significantly from brands?
Have a preference for steel but thinking about trying an aluminum frame because why not.
So should I go for it, or is there anything else i should consider? I was under the impression that heat treated 7005 was a good material but does it vary significantly from brands?
#518
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1332 Post(s)
Liked 398 Times
in
194 Posts
Found a reasonably priced frame, 7005 T-6, triple butted, and geo I'm ok with, but it's a no name brand
Have a preference for steel but thinking about trying an aluminum frame because why not.
So should I go for it, or is there anything else i should consider? I was under the impression that heat treated 7005 was a good material but does it vary significantly from brands?
Have a preference for steel but thinking about trying an aluminum frame because why not.
So should I go for it, or is there anything else i should consider? I was under the impression that heat treated 7005 was a good material but does it vary significantly from brands?
#519
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
#520
Veteran Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,760
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1337 Post(s)
Liked 766 Times
in
432 Posts
Not quite correct. The cutter must clamp down on the pipe to cut it. Now, does it really matter ? Nope.
#521
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
I know I know.
After I hit "submit" I realized I was wrong. It's not zero. I was too lazy to edit my post. The rollers roll around the surface with just enough pressure to hold the pipe from falling out of the cutter. The only real pressure is isolated to the blade's cutting surface, which is what, a thousandth of an inch?
Frankly, I'm surprised Park doesn't sell an overpriced BLUE pipe cutter and call it TSC-1 (Threadless Steerer Cutter). It's a vastly superior method. It leaves no burrs on the outer edge. It aligns itself so no need for a jig. It's a fricking pipe cutter after all. It's designed to make clean, straight cuts without damaging the pipe, and no vice needed. You don't see refrigeration guys, AC guys, Fuel systems guys, plumbers, etc using a hacksaw for crying out loud. Too primitive.
#522
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 516
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
From what I understand, 7005 is probably a bit stronger than 6061, but the major factors in determining ride quality are tube shape, geometry, and construction. I'm not sure I'd trust a no-name to get it right on that front. On the other hand, if it's cheap enough, it might be worth a go.
#523
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Should I get this as my first geared/road bike?
Lemond Poprad with Brand New 105 Group 11SP Cyclocross Gravel Touring | eBay
It seems to hit all the right points(steel,wide tires, brand new quality groupset) but the only thing I'm concerned with is the condition of the frame. He says there's corrosion on the cable stops and little internal rust but it's structurally perfect.
Lemond Poprad with Brand New 105 Group 11SP Cyclocross Gravel Touring | eBay
It seems to hit all the right points(steel,wide tires, brand new quality groupset) but the only thing I'm concerned with is the condition of the frame. He says there's corrosion on the cable stops and little internal rust but it's structurally perfect.
#524
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1332 Post(s)
Liked 398 Times
in
194 Posts
Looks like it's in pretty decent shape. Any steel frame of age is bound to have a little bit of rust going on. I wouldn't jump on the buy it now price, but seems like it's worth a bid.
#525
THE STUFFED
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 12,671
Bikes: R. Sachs Road; EAI Bareknuckle; S-Works Enduro
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
17 Posts
Should I get this as my first geared/road bike?
Lemond Poprad with Brand New 105 Group 11SP Cyclocross Gravel Touring | eBay
It seems to hit all the right points(steel,wide tires, brand new quality groupset) but the only thing I'm concerned with is the condition of the frame. He says there's corrosion on the cable stops and little internal rust but it's structurally perfect.
Lemond Poprad with Brand New 105 Group 11SP Cyclocross Gravel Touring | eBay
It seems to hit all the right points(steel,wide tires, brand new quality groupset) but the only thing I'm concerned with is the condition of the frame. He says there's corrosion on the cable stops and little internal rust but it's structurally perfect.