Shorter stem + shorter bolt = super light = super fast.

Getting the angle just right is always fun though.

Yeah, really. Being very short, the most seatpost I have above the clamp on any of my road or track frames is 100mm, and tyically it's more like 50mm. The only situation where a longer seatpost is needed is on my mtb's which have uber short seat tubes. So having 200mm to 300mm of hidden seatpost is pointless.

I use one of these. Makes a really clean straight cut. Great for handlebars too. Leaves no burrs but I soften up the edge with a file anyway.

Yeah, that's what I use too (tube cutter). The trick is to orient it so that the mushroomed part of the cut is on the piece that is cut off. Works great on any metal, but for carbon you need a carbon saw blade.

About 3-3.5cm below bottom of top tube, and seat stays join in basically the same place.

I usually cut mine for about 3 inches past. But technically, you should be fine. That's well past.

This is my point.

I don't like leaving burrs, scratches, stress risers, microscopic cracks, etc. These can turn into larger cracks and eventually cause the part to fail.

I've a little bit of a background in materials as an engineering tech a long time ago. I've watched enough engineers do failure analysis to be wary of just hacking a part that is intentionally made smooth to increase strength and durability.

This guy does failure analysis on bike parts including Thomson for a hobby - Cozy Beehive: Equipment Misbehavior

Using a pipe cutter shows that you have a minimum level of concern for your own safety and doing things right. Who knows what the previous owner did though - clamped the **** out of it into a vise, heated it, hacked it with a muffler cutter and ruined the temper, etc. We are talking about a used seatpost here and one made by a serious aerospace company.

I know lots of people do it. I know lots of people get away with it, I've never had a problem, my brother does it all the time, my cousin raced for years with hacked parts, etc. etc etc. blah blah blah. Just not me, that's all. Hacksawed seatposts belong in the jackass thread IMO. That's just me though.

Should I build up my old Felt Brougham with this!?

https://www.crustbikes.com/products/clydesdale-fork

That's a mighty high pony you are strutting around on. With all due respect, that is a load of bullshat. On all counts.

The cut is below the clamping area where there is no stress. A circumference cut at the non-stressed end will not initiate cracks to run up the shaft. It won't happen. Ever. Even if it isn't dressed. Which I do, and mentioned above. I dress the cut because I DO care about doing things the best they can be done.

A seat post is a piece of pipe. Cutting the unused end off with a pipe cutter is perfectly safe. And the right tool. I care about my safety. Fearing a cut seat post is bordering on paranoia.

Park sells tools for whacking off ends of pipe. Important pipe. That is then used as a clamping surface.

i dont think park makes one of those small enough to hold a quill stem.

I meant "minimum level of concern" as a compliment. Sorry if that wasn't clear or if it was written poorly.

That you were actually smart enough to use a pipe cutter rather than clamping an aerospace quality part like a Thomson seatpost in a vise and cutting it with a hacksaw shows that you care a little bit about yourself.

People are free to do what they want. I worked in a materials testing lab am clearly ignorant of the subject. I'll do what I want. With all due respect.




-Tim-

I misread that. I took "minimum" to mean insufficient attention to detail. Hence my huffy retort.

Apologies.

Thanks dudes, wound up going with a Zipp post instead. And that Thomson is on Bike Recyclery if anyone wants it.

tbh I'd rather use a hacksaw than the pipe cutter. That pipe cutter puts way more stress on the post than the clamp ever does with the park tool guide. Hacksaw also gives a much cleaner cut in my experience.

Found a reasonably priced frame, 7005 T-6, triple butted, and geo I'm ok with, but it's a no name brand
Have a preference for steel but thinking about trying an aluminum frame because why not.

So should I go for it, or is there anything else i should consider? I was under the impression that heat treated 7005 was a good material but does it vary significantly from brands?

From what I understand, 7005 is probably a bit stronger than 6061, but the major factors in determining ride quality are tube shape, geometry, and construction. I'm not sure I'd trust a no-name to get it right on that front. On the other hand, if it's cheap enough, it might be worth a go.

If it's used correctly it will put zero stress on the post.

Not quite correct. The cutter must clamp down on the pipe to cut it. Now, does it really matter ? Nope.

I know I know.

After I hit "submit" I realized I was wrong. It's not zero. I was too lazy to edit my post. The rollers roll around the surface with just enough pressure to hold the pipe from falling out of the cutter. The only real pressure is isolated to the blade's cutting surface, which is what, a thousandth of an inch?

Frankly, I'm surprised Park doesn't sell an overpriced BLUE pipe cutter and call it TSC-1 (Threadless Steerer Cutter). It's a vastly superior method. It leaves no burrs on the outer edge. It aligns itself so no need for a jig. It's a fricking pipe cutter after all. It's designed to make clean, straight cuts without damaging the pipe, and no vice needed. You don't see refrigeration guys, AC guys, Fuel systems guys, plumbers, etc using a hacksaw for crying out loud. Too primitive.

Thanks for the input, did a lot of research on it but agree that even if everything looks decent on paper, without a reputable brand behind it it's hard to know if it's really worth it. Not to say that a label means everything but it's nice when a brand stands behind their product.

Should I get this as my first geared/road bike?
Lemond Poprad with Brand New 105 Group 11SP Cyclocross Gravel Touring | eBay

It seems to hit all the right points(steel,wide tires, brand new quality groupset) but the only thing I'm concerned with is the condition of the frame. He says there's corrosion on the cable stops and little internal rust but it's structurally perfect.

Looks like it's in pretty decent shape. Any steel frame of age is bound to have a little bit of rust going on. I wouldn't jump on the buy it now price, but seems like it's worth a bid.

That bike looks great! I'd ride it.