The Shopping Thread!
#2251
hello
Thread Starter
Yes, the smoothing of the edges should be done by hand using sandpaper. Although time consuming, you'll have better control. Looking good so far, Serg. Are they ti railed?
#2252
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
Yes, the smoothing of the edges should be done by hand using sandpaper. Although time consuming, you'll have better control. Looking good so far, Serg. Are they ti railed?
#2253
hello
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by sshakari
Could use some advice as I have never done this, tks. This is the plain B17 - heavy as hell, I just wanted to try and see if it will work for me. I will use it on my Litespeed. What is the best way to break the saddle in, should I coat it with the Brooks stuff they sell (cant remember the name)? The leather on these is outstanding and thick.
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Here's a pic if my trimmed Team Pro -
The Team Pro has a little thicker leather than the B-17, and was hard as a rock when I first got it. I conditioned it using a method ascribed by BF member onbike_1939 :
For what it's worth...I never found Hydrophane in any of the stores around here, but I took a chance on a product called Leather New by Farnham...and it worked like a charm.
The Team Pro has a little thicker leather than the B-17, and was hard as a rock when I first got it. I conditioned it using a method ascribed by BF member onbike_1939 :
Forgive the long post but I thought this might be useful to all those (myself included ) who have found it impossible to get the damn thing comfortable.
I’ve conditioned many Brooks’ saddles over the years, so many I’ve lost count and am aware of the many other methods used but I do know this one will not damage the saddle in any way and will in fact prolong the saddle’s life in that it will not dry out and eventually crack. Beware that Brooks frown on any other method of “breaking-in” and will regard it as breaching the warranty. They recommend nothing other than applying “Proofhide” which does nothing to aid the “breaking-in” process but merely acts as a temporary waterproofing for the top surface. That said I treat all my own saddles, all are supremely comfortable from day one and the oldest is thirty-five years’ old.
I use “Hydrophane” a “leather dressing” used for waterproofing and softening horses tack. It is not comparable to “neatsfoot oil” and other like products, which I would not recommend.
METHOD: Give the underside of the saddle an application of the dressing taking care to work it in well around the rivets. Do not allow the dressing onto the top of the saddle and wipe any away. The dressing will be quickly absorbed as the forming process of the leather means that all of the natural oils contained in the leather have been leached out. This is why the saddle is likely to crack around the rivets in later years. Give one application only then wait overnight to see how far this has penetrated the leather. Too much and the dressing will penetrate through to the top polished surface and dull the leather. The amount of dressing needed depends upon the thickness of the leather. B17’s are less thick than the “Team Professional” for example. NOTE: Honey-coloured saddles will darken and take on an attractive weathered look.
The following morning examine the saddle and then, taking the “wings” pull these up and down a few times before laying the saddle on a protective surface on the floor right side up. Now, with your bare foot begin to release your weight onto the saddle working back and forward along the length of the saddle. It should take a little time before you feel the leather begin to flex. Continue until you have “give” over the widest part of the saddle and then stop. The saddle will be brought the rest of the way by riding it in. If after this process the saddle still remains hard then another application of dressing may be applied but be careful…do not overdo it, as you do not want to over-soften the saddle.
All that remains is to apply some Proofhide, leave it for a little time and then polish. Apply Proofhide about once every couple of months. Remember, even although the dressing will waterproof you should still use a seat-cover to keep the saddle dry.
I’ve conditioned many Brooks’ saddles over the years, so many I’ve lost count and am aware of the many other methods used but I do know this one will not damage the saddle in any way and will in fact prolong the saddle’s life in that it will not dry out and eventually crack. Beware that Brooks frown on any other method of “breaking-in” and will regard it as breaching the warranty. They recommend nothing other than applying “Proofhide” which does nothing to aid the “breaking-in” process but merely acts as a temporary waterproofing for the top surface. That said I treat all my own saddles, all are supremely comfortable from day one and the oldest is thirty-five years’ old.
I use “Hydrophane” a “leather dressing” used for waterproofing and softening horses tack. It is not comparable to “neatsfoot oil” and other like products, which I would not recommend.
METHOD: Give the underside of the saddle an application of the dressing taking care to work it in well around the rivets. Do not allow the dressing onto the top of the saddle and wipe any away. The dressing will be quickly absorbed as the forming process of the leather means that all of the natural oils contained in the leather have been leached out. This is why the saddle is likely to crack around the rivets in later years. Give one application only then wait overnight to see how far this has penetrated the leather. Too much and the dressing will penetrate through to the top polished surface and dull the leather. The amount of dressing needed depends upon the thickness of the leather. B17’s are less thick than the “Team Professional” for example. NOTE: Honey-coloured saddles will darken and take on an attractive weathered look.
The following morning examine the saddle and then, taking the “wings” pull these up and down a few times before laying the saddle on a protective surface on the floor right side up. Now, with your bare foot begin to release your weight onto the saddle working back and forward along the length of the saddle. It should take a little time before you feel the leather begin to flex. Continue until you have “give” over the widest part of the saddle and then stop. The saddle will be brought the rest of the way by riding it in. If after this process the saddle still remains hard then another application of dressing may be applied but be careful…do not overdo it, as you do not want to over-soften the saddle.
All that remains is to apply some Proofhide, leave it for a little time and then polish. Apply Proofhide about once every couple of months. Remember, even although the dressing will waterproof you should still use a seat-cover to keep the saddle dry.
#2258
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+1 with fixers post of the best way to break in a brooks is your butt and miles. even during the break in phase its not that bad, i rode one of my most comfy centuries within two weeks of installing my swift! just get it on there and get out on the road! in no time itll develop a custom a$$ groove!
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Mistakes are just fine. Just don't make excuses....
#2259
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
The stuff they sell (proofide) only makes the saddle water repelent. Short of using a leather softener, which is NOT recommended, only your butt and miles on the saddle will break it in....
What about getting caught in the rain? When using a Brooks and theres a chance of rain, should you carry a plastic bag or something to protect it?
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Uber-randonneur Machka - from the Long Distance and Road forums doesn't cover her B17 with anything...but she has a trekking bike with fenders, panniers, saddle bags, etc. I'm sure that, in the course of her 700 mile brevets, she's encountered a sprinkling or two.
Also, hers looks like one of those shoes you see cartoon characters fishing out of a lake.
Also, hers looks like one of those shoes you see cartoon characters fishing out of a lake.
#2261
hello
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by herbm
What about getting caught in the rain? When using a Brooks and theres a chance of rain, should you carry a plastic bag or something to protect it?
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
I've been caught in the rain before where the saddles have been completely drenched but they were fine the very next day after some overnight drying. I might carry a plastic bag if I were riding in very wet climate elsewhere.
Thanks...
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#2263
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Ok guys, all this talk of Brooks saddles. I've been putting off getting one, but I think it's time. Still having issues after all this time! Sooooo, help me out here.
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
#2264
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Tiffanie
Ok guys, all this talk of Brooks saddles. I've been putting off getting one, but I think it's time. Still having issues after all this time! Sooooo, help me out here.
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
#2265
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Originally Posted by Grumpy Pig
Surf City doesn't carry or can't order them? I won't order stuff online like saddles or shoes unless they're replacements of things I've already used.
edit: Oh and.. no, SCC doesn't carry them and I'm not sure if they can order them.
Last edited by Tiffanie; 03-28-07 at 03:05 PM.
#2266
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Originally Posted by Tiffanie
Ok guys, all this talk of Brooks saddles. I've been putting off getting one, but I think it's time. Still having issues after all this time! Sooooo, help me out here.
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
I'm going to order from wallbike.com today.
B17 or Team Pro? Standard or Women's specific? The difference is the women's are wider and shorter. They're sooooooo wide!!! I can't decide..
#2267
It is fantastic.
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oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
#2270
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Originally Posted by voltman
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
#2271
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Originally Posted by Tiffanie
I know, I know... but I need to make my ass happy!
#2272
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For what it's worth, I don't think Wallbike will take back any saddle that's been broken in with anything other than an initial (or two) coats of Proofhide.
With that in mind, You probably want to go with a B17, either standard or women's specific, because the leather is more pliable right out of the box. Also, they're cheaper, so you don't feel like you are possibly throwing a huge sum at a miracle cure.
Last, keep in mind that it will make your bike look freddish, and every time you look at it, it won't look like the sleek machine you hope it will. (You don't think this is an issue, but it was for me...leading me to buy a Toupe. Bike looks hot, but my ass prefers my Brooks)
With that in mind, You probably want to go with a B17, either standard or women's specific, because the leather is more pliable right out of the box. Also, they're cheaper, so you don't feel like you are possibly throwing a huge sum at a miracle cure.
Last, keep in mind that it will make your bike look freddish, and every time you look at it, it won't look like the sleek machine you hope it will. (You don't think this is an issue, but it was for me...leading me to buy a Toupe. Bike looks hot, but my ass prefers my Brooks)
#2273
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Originally Posted by Mo'Phat
For what it's worth, I don't think Wallbike will take back any saddle that's been broken in with anything other than an initial (or two) coats of Proofhide.
With that in mind, You probably want to go with a B17, either standard or women's specific, because the leather is more pliable right out of the box. Also, they're cheaper, so you don't feel like you are possibly throwing a huge sum at a miracle cure.
Last, keep in mind that it will make your bike look freddish, and every time you look at it, it won't look like the sleek machine you hope it will. (You don't think this is an issue, but it was for me...leading me to buy a Toupe. Bike looks hot, but my ass prefers my Brooks)
With that in mind, You probably want to go with a B17, either standard or women's specific, because the leather is more pliable right out of the box. Also, they're cheaper, so you don't feel like you are possibly throwing a huge sum at a miracle cure.
Last, keep in mind that it will make your bike look freddish, and every time you look at it, it won't look like the sleek machine you hope it will. (You don't think this is an issue, but it was for me...leading me to buy a Toupe. Bike looks hot, but my ass prefers my Brooks)
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Can anyone tell me how to tell what model of Brooks saddle I have?
It came on an old (1991 or 92) bike I bought...
It came on an old (1991 or 92) bike I bought...
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#2275
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Originally Posted by voltman
Quoting just because.
Originally Posted by Mo'Phat
Last, keep in mind that it will make your bike look freddish, and every time you look at it, it won't look like the sleek machine you hope it will. (You don't think this is an issue, but it was for me...leading me to buy a Toupe. Bike looks hot, but my ass prefers my Brooks)