[searching dug an old 2015 thread. Adding to it would have resulted in zombie panic, so here I go...]

I've ordered Redshift's L clip on bars, which may or may not fit my current handlebar. Worse comes to worst, i'll have to return them.

I don't expect significant performance improvement, but felt quite often, after long hours in the saddle, that aero would be a welcome change of position.

Being clip on, it won't interfere with flying / public transit. Probably imply ditching the handlebar bag, though.

I'll read opinions / sharing of experience with interest. Especially related to handling (I don't plan to add brake levers, I ride with fork packs, I am getting old...)

I’ve never had aerobars, but would be interested to know how they compare to riding in the drops against a strong headwind

One nice thing about aerobars is it can give your hands a breather by taking the weight and pressure off your hands and positions it to your forearms. Though I never toured with aerobars, I have obtained a similar position using trekking bars and laying my forearms across the top of the "C,s" and allowing my hands to float freely in front and regain circulation and comfort.

I tour with aerobars. It was sad to give up on a bar bag but the comfort was worth it. They unload the saddle too so it's not only your wrists that they help with.

One thing to note: don't bother if you have even a slight gut, because your thighs will bounce on your fat with every rotation. I'm 6' and my thighs were touching my stomach at 167lb body weight. Dropped down to 160 lb and it became fine. You could probably mentally block out the jiggle but I wouldn't personally manage it. Much fatter than that and it would be a physical impossibility and not just a mental annoyance.

I've done a few tours with aerobars. I don't use them anymore because there are quite a few compromises with them I don't like.

1) If they're not of the flipping up variety (where the arm pads flip up when no pressure is applied), you'll likely lose the tops hand position of a drop bar. Not really an issue if you're using alt bars. With drop bars I sorely missed the tops.

2) Aerobar fit is a bit finicky. The reach distance of the aerobars is fairly static since it's dictated by your torso length and you only have your upper arm to adjust. However you'd preferably want to keep the arm/torso-angle as close to 90 degrees as possible. This means the rear portion of the aerobars need to be fairly close to your saddle compared to where your handlebar is. You don't want to overreach aerobars. That gets really uncomfortable really fast. If you want to keep your saddle in its typical position you'd use with your ordinary handlebar, the aerobar is going to need to come back quite a bit and can get in the way of riding out of saddle and mounting/dismounting the bike.

One solution to the aerobar being too far back is of course to focus on the aerobar position and push your seat forward in a TT or Tri-bike style, which unfortunately severely compromises your regular riding position. But this is what many RAAM and Transcontinental Race riders do.

Another solution is to use a shiftable seatpost like the Redshift post which gives you a regular riding position and an aerobar position.

Then there's height. TT- and Tri-bikes can get away with low aerobar heights because the seatpost is almost vertical, ie. the hip isn't closed when pedaling. However when you take a laid back touring seat position and slap on low aerobars which might also be a bit too far forward to give your legs some working room, you'll end up in a position which is more akin to stretching in high school gym class than cycling. Makes breathing difficult too.
The way you solve this is by raising the aerobar significantly so your torso angle is close to your drops position. Many aerobars have extension pieces available for purchase. But a comfy position can make the aerobars pretty towering so keep that in mind.

3) You might need a new saddle. Aerobars kinda require you to push your pelvis forward in a way you might not have tried before. If you've been riding a thin nosed saddle with the weight on your sitbones (something brooks made etc), an aerobar will put your unmentionables to sleep in no time. If your aerobar position isn't perfect it'll happen even quicker. You'll want your pubic rami really well supported with an aerobar.

4) You'll likely lose you handlebar bag privileges. There aren't many good aerobar compatible bar bags available and the other solutions are pretty bodgy (I used a second stem below my main one...)

5) The end result gets HEAVY. If you add together the aerobar, extension pieces, handlebar bag bodges and a shiftable seatpost, you'll be looking a bike that's easily two to three pounds heavier than what you started with.

As to does it make riding better? In headwinds? Well kinda and no at the same time. My final impression was that a compromise position won't work. Either your position is focused mainly on the aerobar riding OR you don't use the aerobars. Having a good regular riding position AND a good aerobar riding position just doesn't really work out in the real word, unless you're extemely flexible, athletic and thin. And even then the aerobar might not be a comfort position.

It does help with the absolute aerodynamic drag but at the same time lowers power so many times it's tit for tat. Handling isn't really an issue as long as you don't ride behind someone on them.

^^^ I have no experience with aerobars, but this was a great post elcruxio

I have clip-on aero bars on my townie/tourer. A big plus to take pressure off my hands, but needs improvement to use for long periods:
- The forearm rests are not far enough apart for comfort. I bought used a later version with flip-down rests which space wider, but it clamps on just a bit more outboard, so may be into the taper transiton part from 25.4mm to 22mm, I'll need to test. I need a wider middle section. And...
- For comfort, I need to raise the aeros about 70-75mm, without raising the flat bar. For my current aeros, easy, because the bars are anchored to the top half. On the later aeros, they come from the bottom half, so spacing up the forearms alone would make a funny angle to the bar front and also tilt the pads the same way. And, Profile says the spacer is incompatible with either bars, when it looks totally compatible. I think I know why: The spacer is laterally narrow, so the wide forearm pads would impart a bending moment on the main bolts. (This would not be an issue if the forearm wings were a one-piece span.) So my current thinking is to find a flat bar with a wider middle section (if need), and space the aeros up using a "double-clamp/stem", however the aeros attach very close on each side of my current stem, where the double clamps would normally attach, so they would need to be further outboard on the tapers or 22mm dia. So I'd need to make that work. And, so far I have not been able to find double-clamps near 75mm center-to-center, only about 40mm, so there's that. If I can solve all of the above, then, between the flat bar, bar-ends, and higher aeros, I would be dialed in for touring hand positions.

I also put an interrupter/mid-cable front brake lever on the front left of the aero, for braking if needed. It's a short-pull lever with long pull v-brakes, but works since my rims are very true and pads closely adjusted, and I like the additional leverage and braking power.

hi gauv, I've been tempted to buy some used ones for my Troll with dropbars, as I have ridden a few times with people my age who are pretty hard core bikepackers and use them. They do big big distances per day and have done the Tour Divide ride etc.

oh, I agree that elcruxio's post is very imformative--and the part he mentions about the height they are at being important made me think of the riders I know , as their front ends on their dropbar bikes are fairly high, and so the aerobar setup is also quite high and in a comfortable position--which as elcrux brings up, the whole body, back and seat position issues that can come with too low an aerobar setup.

the comment about potentially losing the tops area could be an issue, although it seems to me your bike doesn't use drops no?
On long slow climbs, I use the tops a lot, and would not want to lose that hand position.

also, when I started looking at aero bars for fun, it would appear that there are lots of them with varying setup differences (height of arm pads, type of pads, flip up or not, width of pads, width and length of forward facing bars etc etc), although the Redshift stuff is known for being well thought out. (from what I've heard about them by folks using their flexible stems etc)

elcruxio thanks for your detailed comments. TBH, I hesitate. On the plus side there is the potential for a radically different hand position, something I've tried before, similar to robow , currently relying on inner bar ends, not aero at all, not exactly what I am looking for in ergonomic terms either.

The plan is to use them for a trip next Spring-Summer. I won't have much time to test this setup before flying out (perhaps 2 weekends). Assuming that I can mount Redshift on my handlebars, it implies replacing the handlebar bag (5L) with backpacking bags (lots of positive reviews about Tailfin Flip and Wedge, but expensive...). Current setup is actually not bad. Not sure if aero + new bags will be an improvement.

WRT Redshift -- I get them because they are removable. Clip-on aero typically just means that they can be mounted on a standard bar. Redshift slides over a bolted bracket so you can remove them in a matter of seconds -- very useful because I'll certainly fly and use public transit with the bike and wouldn't bother mounting standard clip-ons,

WRT fit -- I'll see. Probably applies more to performance oriented cycling, but frankly, I don't know. I'll update

WRT design -- you are absolutely right. There's grip design (S vs L, etc.); arm rest design (and quality); orientation, height, etc.etc. Just as there are infinite variations of handlebar models. And not being a pro, I don't have the resources to try/test them all, not even a fraction of what's available.

So, yeah... the plan is to (1) see if these are compatible with my current handlebars. (2) if they are, try various settings on short distances to get an idea of the potential benefit. (3) if promising, addressing the storage consequences (replacing the handlebar bag with top-tube and perhaps frame bag(s).

You can get this type of aerobar clamp design that lets you move the arm pads as far back as you want, solving the main problem of aerobar fit on road bikes. However there's a limit on how far you can push it because when your weight is too far back the handling starts to go south.

Because ulnar nerve damage (even post-surgery) limits how far I can ride without aerobars to about 20 minutes, at which point my left hand goes numb, I've used aerobars on all my bikes since the mid-1990s. I don't do rides of greater duration than about 5 hours, but I never yearn to ride without them.

My least favorite setup is drops plus aerobars. My favorite is bullhorns plus aerobars. The combination of flat bars plus aerobars is close to being as good as the bullhorn configuration, although getting the right configuration for comfort and efficiency was tricky.

Big difference. That's why they're used in time trials vs. just sending riders out on drop bars.

Can you elaborate a bit? Most advice seem to be directed at competitive cyclists (Triathlon and time trials). (1) I don't ride fast; (2) I don't expect to stay in aero for extended periods (although, what do I know...)

As others have mentioned, you have to juggle hand position(s) on the main bar and hand and (especially) forearm pad position on the aero bar. The usual problem for me was that a comfortable placement of the flat bar (for my preferred moderately aggressive position) put the forearm pads too far forward. I decided that the flat bar hand position was less important to me than the aero bar/forearm pad position, so I installed a stem with less reach.

That did the trick. And the flat bar position turned out to be fine.
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Gauvins, the folks that I have ridden with a few times have a set up like this photo. You can see how high up they are, so very much are made for the comfort factor (compared to a TT bike for example for pure speed) but they also must be better aerodynamically.

I've been using flat bars with the oddly named "inner bar-ends". The inner position is pretty aero. I don't miss drop bars when I use them.

There was a thread last year about them: Inner Bar Ends

That's also why I need aerobars. Back in the 90s I flipped and cut my drops to make bullhorns, and with GrabOn foam and angled, that did some good, then added clip-ons, but for a few years I went recumbent because of hand pain, and neck pain from clip-ons that were too low. But the 'bent was such a pain to transport or even get in and out of the apartment with steps, and climbed poorly.




Regarding front cargo, I need to raise my aeros (on the folder, only bike I currently ride) about 75mm, but they do make a nice place to hang a bag.


I was going to bullhorn the bike above, until I realized that bullhorns are 40/42, maybe 44cm c-t-c, and bar ends on my flat bar are 58cm, way more comfortable for me now, I've been told I have wide shoulders for my height.

Makes sense as you probably don't want to extend your reach too much, given that flat bar bikes typically have longer top-tubes

it's interesting to note Duragrouch's three bikes and the difference in height of the aerobars on each one, there is quite a difference with some of them rather low.
Certainly compared to the photo I added, and shows a wide range of preferences doesn't it?

Not as it would seem.

The red road bike was used 1989 to 2005, when I was more racy and flexible, though I still needed to add forearm rest risers.

The white bike was never ridden, I picked it up for a song at a garage sale working out of town, was skipping teeth, traced to one bonked chain link, removed, worked perfect. Took a good wash, had what seemed like oil or something else dried to a varnish on the frame, eventually washed off, cleaned up like new. There was a local bike shop that had a regular swap meet, I flipped a couple bikes (took that nice triple crank and long cage RD off one first to put on the red bike), and picked up fenders and aeros cheap so I put them on just for grins. Never rode that bike before putting in bike box for storage almost a couple decades ago. I did buy from Nashbar a much raised quill stem for it to better fit me, but never installed, that's still in wrapper too.

I rode a hybrid 700c for a couple years, then got my folder for easier transport, added racks and panniers and aeros, never quite right for 7 years until, when needing to swap out frame due to terminal seat tube crack, I finally did the 2X conversion, should have done so many years ago, like night and day for a hilly city like mine. And even though bars are a lot higher, I still need to raise the aeros, and swap out for ones with wider forearm pads, which I have, but still not quite able to find 70mm double clamps to raise, but I think someone suggested some on another thread, I should go back and find that and order. EDIT: Found thread and link, yep, 68mm c-t-c, that's about as close as I'm going to get on ones that look stout enough and not for just light and computer mount, etc, and these do.

I have never tried them and have no plans to. But, if I was going to try them, I would look closely at the photos of bikes that have them for LONG distance riding by riders that are sleep deprived on their bikes that are loaded similar to how your bike will be loaded.
https://bikepacking.com/bikes/2024-t...e-rigs-part-2/

That can give you some thoughts on angles, heights, accessories, mounting, etc.

Thanks for the comments and links to pictures. I searched quite extensively for fit principles, but found that the vast majority are aimed at competitive athletes, mostly triathletes and time trialists.

My understanding is that there are 5 adjustments to consider (see diagram below). If you have information on how to adjust settings, I'll read with interest. At the moment I am inclined to use default settings and to keep Allen keys close by.

1. Height - for touring, the suggestion is to significantly raise the aeros, which should improve comfort
2. Tilt -- I didn't find much about this. The manufacturer suggests starting level. Then it is like salt: "adjust to taste"
3. Length -- nothing here. I assume that it depends on the rider forearm's length, and on how you grab the bar
4. Slant -- It looks as if several competitive riders prefer a slanted layout (prayer mantis). Others criticize it and suggest a vertical layout.
5. Pad -- depends on the model. Mostly alignment. "adjust to taste".

From what I saw, competitive cyclists favor low and level aerobars to reduce their CdA, whereas tourers prefer raised and tilted aerobars, for comfort.

gauv, the photo I put in of the light blue bike has risers that bring the aerobars up, looks like they are about 6, 7cms .
The rider is about our age, but a very strong rider, but chose to do this setup more in the comfort position, which is what I would want to emulate if I ever play with these things.

re you not having much time to ride before your trip, that would bug me, as I think you'd want to try diff positions and especially as it will change your whole loading setup at the front -- thats my opinion on not liking to try new setups on a trip before living with them and tweaking or adjusting things.
cheers

djb "you not having much time to ride before your trip" Well -- I leave mid May. So probably enough time for several short rides and a couple of centuries. I have risers and will carry Allen keys, so, not to worry. Only thing might be mounting the bars on top of the headset (i.e. subracting the stem's length in order to bring the elbow angle at the preferred 90%. But the vast majority of touring pictures I saw show aeros mounted on top of the handlebars... anyhow)