Trying to choose a simple tour bike..Me=Stupid
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Trying to choose a simple tour bike..Me=Stupid
I've been directed to this site several times when googling a bike from Craigslist. Always get great advice.
Even though I've ridden across the states once, I am still quite ignorant about what i'm doing. I got many a snicker from other cyclists. I rode an old Shogun 2000 (i think) that someone had put a mountain bike crank on. It had a few problems and some bike shop in Colorado put a new flywheel on it as well as new fat tubes in the tires, and were amazed I'd come as far as i had. I ended up putting a few hundred more into what I thought was a complete bike.
I ride with all my gear (40lbs.?)and camp(REAL camping, not some designated RV ****hole). So I've always thought'How good does it really have to be?'. I just want something i won't have to tune alot or worry about stuff going wrong on.
I came across this bike recently and most posts on BikeForums say 'Hell Yeah'.
Whatcha think?...
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/bik/2775293874.html
Even though I've ridden across the states once, I am still quite ignorant about what i'm doing. I got many a snicker from other cyclists. I rode an old Shogun 2000 (i think) that someone had put a mountain bike crank on. It had a few problems and some bike shop in Colorado put a new flywheel on it as well as new fat tubes in the tires, and were amazed I'd come as far as i had. I ended up putting a few hundred more into what I thought was a complete bike.
I ride with all my gear (40lbs.?)and camp(REAL camping, not some designated RV ****hole). So I've always thought'How good does it really have to be?'. I just want something i won't have to tune alot or worry about stuff going wrong on.
I came across this bike recently and most posts on BikeForums say 'Hell Yeah'.
Whatcha think?...
https://kansascity.craigslist.org/bik/2775293874.html
#2
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Fit is First. Effective top tube length priority, as it sets how stretched out you'll be and where your sit bones land on the saddle. How comfortable you'll be for long daily mileage. A thorough test ride is essential unless you're banking on luck, or your body geometry is a close match to industry frame standards and you already know the size you need.
After fit is settled, check out gear ratios, wheel strength, and component condition. Can get expensive quick if much has to be changed to match you riding preferences.
Good luck.
After fit is settled, check out gear ratios, wheel strength, and component condition. Can get expensive quick if much has to be changed to match you riding preferences.
Good luck.
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not enough information to recommend that or any bike because your size and preferred bike size and the Bridgestone size aren't known.
Do you know your bb to saddle height or size of bicycle? That one shown looks to be around 20" or 52cm with short stem but it's hard to tell. I wouldn't want 28mm tires if I was carrying 40lbs. If you're 150lbs I could see using an old touring bike with front low riders helping to take some of the weight and 28-32mm tires but if you're 220lbs carrying 40lbs I'd be mighty leery of old road bikes with wheels of undetermined durability.
If you're getting used because you can't buy new you really can't afford to be ignorant of what you're getting because it'll be expensive later on. For example if that bike fits you but the rear wheel is slightly wonky/bent or retrued and still bent you'll be replacing it later on for at least $100.
So if you and your gear are on the heavy side that $350bike could easily become a $550 bike once you replace the rear wheel and tires because it's "problems" don't match your demands of loaded touring.
Do you know your bb to saddle height or size of bicycle? That one shown looks to be around 20" or 52cm with short stem but it's hard to tell. I wouldn't want 28mm tires if I was carrying 40lbs. If you're 150lbs I could see using an old touring bike with front low riders helping to take some of the weight and 28-32mm tires but if you're 220lbs carrying 40lbs I'd be mighty leery of old road bikes with wheels of undetermined durability.
If you're getting used because you can't buy new you really can't afford to be ignorant of what you're getting because it'll be expensive later on. For example if that bike fits you but the rear wheel is slightly wonky/bent or retrued and still bent you'll be replacing it later on for at least $100.
So if you and your gear are on the heavy side that $350bike could easily become a $550 bike once you replace the rear wheel and tires because it's "problems" don't match your demands of loaded touring.
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Another thing you might want to worry about with that bike is heel strike,your feet hitting the panniers as you turn the sprocket because the frame looks to be "Sport Touring" rather than what you need, which is a real touring bike with long enough chainstays . You need to look at your previous tour and say to yourself- what do I like about the Shogun ? what do I dislike about it ? and what needs do I have specifically that ill make my tour better if my bike has this characteristic . While the RB 2 appears to have braze-ons for a rear rack , a bridgestone tourer would probably suit your needs better.
#5
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RB, The RB-2 is essentially a road bike, placed mid range, IIRC. The RB-T was Bridgestone's touring offering. While Bridgestone bikes are well respected, I just don't see a real touring advantage with the RB-2. I'm not so sure about the price either.
Brad
Brad
#6
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Visit Your local bikeShop, Talk to them.. then chat about the conversation.
Touring is the trip , not the bike..
Touring is the trip , not the bike..
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-01-12 at 03:04 AM.
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What Fietsbob said.
#8
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you sound like a serious touring cyclist so do yourself a favour and buy a proper touring bike new ,for instance take a look at the Thorn range of bikes there club tour is class i ride the sherpa great bike ,but theres loads of choices out there shop around for your touring bike.and good luck.
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Find a Jamis Aurora Elite, a Surly LHT, a Trek 520, a Fuji Touring, a Marin Four Corners, a Raleigh Sojourn, or a Salsa Vaya, on Craigslist. As long as there are no crack, weld, or rust issues, it won't matter how old it is...
Alternatively, you could get a SOMA Saga, and build it up to your exact customized desires.
If you're going to buy new, get the Jamis Aurora Elite!
- Slim
Alternatively, you could get a SOMA Saga, and build it up to your exact customized desires.
If you're going to buy new, get the Jamis Aurora Elite!
- Slim
Last edited by SlimRider; 01-01-12 at 08:15 AM.
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Or a Cannondale T series,
or a Trek 520 ,
or a Schwinn Voyageur
or a Touring Paramount.
Good bikes for a good price,
you only cry once
or a Trek 520 ,
or a Schwinn Voyageur
or a Touring Paramount.
Good bikes for a good price,
you only cry once
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+1
I couldnt see myself spending over a grand on a bike but I did. I got myself an LHT. I cried only once.
It's everything it's cracked up to be. And more. I'm always amazed when I'm coming down a hill at 40mph and the bike is just rock steady even with a full load.
I couldnt see myself spending over a grand on a bike but I did. I got myself an LHT. I cried only once.
It's everything it's cracked up to be. And more. I'm always amazed when I'm coming down a hill at 40mph and the bike is just rock steady even with a full load.
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Good point. Looking at the photo, the chance of heel strike is more than hypothetical. Those chainstays look very short.