Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Touring
Reload this Page >

Bar end shifter cable routing

Notices
Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

Bar end shifter cable routing

Old 04-14-12, 03:57 PM
  #1  
Dellphinus
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Illinois (near St. Louis)
Posts: 852

Bikes: Specialized Expedition Sport, Surly LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bar end shifter cable routing

Time to re-cable. Anyone offer experiences with routing bar end shifter cables under the tape on drop bars? Currently have the cables "flying" from the bar ends to the down tube; shifts great, looks sketchy. If you did route them under the tape and around the drops, what type of cable housing did you use?

Thanks,
DP
Dellphinus is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 04:41 PM
  #2  
staehpj1 
Senior Member
 
staehpj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 10,211
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 590 Post(s)
Liked 192 Times in 154 Posts
Back in the day before I decided I hated bar end shifters... I ran only the portion of the housing along the flat part of the drops under the tape.

These days I have been riding with down tube shifters a lot, but the rest of the time I use STI brifters.
__________________
Check out my profile, articles, and trip journals at:
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/staehpj1
staehpj1 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 05:20 PM
  #3  
George
Senior Member
 
George's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 5,582

Bikes: Specialized Roubaix

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times in 15 Posts
Jagwire and it works great and much cleaner looks.
__________________
George
George is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:11 PM
  #4  
fuzz2050
Real Men Ride Ordinaries
 
fuzz2050's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,723
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I ride a 63cm frame and don't want to pay for tandem length cables.
fuzz2050 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:23 PM
  #5  
mulveyr 
Senior Member
 
mulveyr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In the wilds of NY
Posts: 1,568

Bikes: Specialized Diverge, Box Dog Pelican, 1991 Cannondale tandem

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Dellphinus View Post
Time to re-cable. Anyone offer experiences with routing bar end shifter cables under the tape on drop bars? Currently have the cables "flying" from the bar ends to the down tube; shifts great, looks sketchy. If you did route them under the tape and around the drops, what type of cable housing did you use?

Thanks,
DP
One bike with Jagwire, the other with Yokozuna. Both worked perfectly fine.
__________________
Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.
mulveyr is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:24 PM
  #6  
Chris_in_Miami
missing in action
 
Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,579
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked 43 Times in 24 Posts
I've done it using generic indexing-compatible cable, but I always felt that it added too much clutter where the cables exit from the tape, and it increased the friction noticeably. Now I just install it completely outside the tape and use a slightly shorter than average length of housing (just enough to get full swing of the bars without pulling the cables.) It gives me plenty of room for a handlebar bag.



Chris_in_Miami is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 08:38 PM
  #7  
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,272

Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 326 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 228 Times in 151 Posts
I routed my Fargo bar ends all of the way to the end of the tape near the stem. To minimize the bend to the down tube cable stops I run the cable housings to the opposite side from normal then cross them under the down tube to get them back on the correct side for the shifters. I used jag wire housing to minimize friction. This way eliminates loose floppy cables, gives unlimited room for a handlebar bag and shifts flawlessly. I was worried about the extra bends in the cable housing causing sloppy shifts but it is absolutely perfect with my 9 speed Shimano setup. To get cable housing past brake levers I just ran them up beside them on the inside and covered them with tape. Absolutely perfect setup. If I can find the link to pictures I posted here last year I will add it later. This is an uncommon setup but has been done by others also with great success.
dwmckee is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 09:04 PM
  #8  
Chris Pringle
Senior Member
 
Chris Pringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Posts: 1,304

Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '06 Specialized Epic Marathon MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 15 Posts
Jagwire is my preference. You can get them in different colors which is a nice plus aesthetically.
Chris Pringle is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 09:46 PM
  #9  
rodar y rodar
weirdo
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I love bar end shifters, have had them on several bikes, and routed every which way I could think of. I`ve been using a seemingly infinite roll of Jagwire housing with generic stainless cables no matter how I route.

I guess the "standard" way is under the tape to the start of the hook, and that was okay for me, except that it occasionally caught my fingers when I slid from the back of the hooks to the ends.

Have also been fairly happy with the housing wrapped the whole way under the tape. The relatively tight curves seem to add a little bit of sponginess to the action, but liveable, and I can manage it with standard length cables.

My favorite way, with regular brake levers, is to route under the tape up to the hoods, then through the hoods and out right along side the brake cables. It`s killer- no nasty bends, and isn`t in the way because it goes where you already have the brake cables going anyway. The only catch is that the new style brake levers don`t feed out the top of the hoods any more, so unless you`ve got some old levers hanging around it won`t work. Pic attatched.

I also have a bike still on its original factory cabling that stays outside the tape and cuts very short, like Chris in Miami has. That doesn`t work for me because my usualy grip is right there at the ends with my hands cupping the shifters, and I find my fingers constantly fighting the cable. Can`t wait until I have an excuse to recable that bike. Pic of that one attatched, too.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN2256.jpg (49.3 KB, 260 views)
File Type: jpg
DSCN2482.jpg (72.8 KB, 283 views)
rodar y rodar is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 12:40 AM
  #10  
Ciufalon
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 942

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
I have the cables routed under the tape all the way to the top, exiting with the brake cables from aero levers on two touring bikes. I used the long shifter cable and housing set from Rivendell ($18). It is Yokozuna cable/housing. Just ordered another set to do the same on another of my bikes. It works great and I have had no problems with it at all. You can see it on my Fuji TS IV here. I think I am going to shorten the cables a bit on both bikes and definitely when I do the next one, so there is not so much cable in front of the head tube.

Last edited by Ciufalon; 04-15-12 at 12:45 AM.
Ciufalon is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 12:55 AM
  #11  
markjenn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,160
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked 13 Times in 10 Posts
If you decide to do the conventional housing routing (under the tape until the handlebar starts curving up to the hoods), you'll get a cleaner breakout from under the tape by wrapping from top to bottom rather than the usual bottom to top.

- Mark
markjenn is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 01:46 AM
  #12  
brooklyn_bike
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PDX
Posts: 373
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by rodar y rodar View Post
My favorite way, with regular brake levers, is to route under the tape up to the hoods, then through the hoods and out right along side the brake cables. It`s killer- no nasty bends, and isn`t in the way because it goes where you already have the brake cables going anyway. The only catch is that the new style brake levers don`t feed out the top of the hoods any more, so unless you`ve got some old levers hanging around it won`t work.
i like this idea of routing along side the brake cables for non aero-brakes. if you have any other photos of the details (i.e. exiting the brake hoods) i'd love to see them. thank you.
brooklyn_bike is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 02:17 AM
  #13  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,322 Times in 832 Posts
I tape bar end shifters till the band clamp for the Brakelevers,then it runs up from the inside .

no interference with bar bag.. aero brake cable stays under the tape to second brake or end tape.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 05:09 AM
  #14  
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 8,471

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2346 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 591 Times in 486 Posts
I drilled the bar about 3 inches from the end and again where the double groove starts near the brake lever. If you stand on the pedals while you yank on the bars to accelerate or climb hills or if you do anything else where you don't want to have a drill hole weakened bar, forget that you read this. And if drill your bars and if your bars break and you get hurt, don't sue me.



I have done this on both of my touring bikes, one bike needs a tandem length cable, the other just barely does not.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
H_IMGP2518.jpg (102.5 KB, 369 views)
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 10:09 AM
  #15  
sstorkel
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Chris Pringle View Post
Jagwire is my preference. You can get them in different colors which is a nice plus aesthetically.
I used to use Jagwire cables. Never thought a cable made much difference, really. Boy was I wrong! I now have Yokozuna cables on my main road bike and I'll be switching the touring bike over shortly. It's crazy how much less friction the Yokozuna cables have than Jagwire or other standard cables...
sstorkel is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 10:19 AM
  #16  
wahoonc
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Have to see if I can find pictures...mine are routed along the bottom flats under the tape, then loop back to the frame, puts them below the handlebar bag. I have Suntour friction and used the stock stainless (?) cable housing that came with them, the inners have been replaced a couple of times but the housings are well over 30 years old and still work well. When I replace them it will be with Jagwire more than likely.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 11:05 AM
  #17  
rsacilotto
Senior Member
 
rsacilotto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Saugus, Massachusetts, United States
Posts: 224

Bikes: 1983 Trek 760, 2000 Fuji Team, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by dwmckee View Post
I routed my Fargo bar ends all of the way to the end of the tape near the stem. To minimize the bend to the down tube cable stops I run the cable housings to the opposite side from normal then cross them under the down tube to get them back on the correct side for the shifters. I used jag wire housing to minimize friction. This way eliminates loose floppy cables, gives unlimited room for a handlebar bag and shifts flawlessly. I was worried about the extra bends in the cable housing causing sloppy shifts but it is absolutely perfect with my 9 speed Shimano setup. To get cable housing past brake levers I just ran them up beside them on the inside and covered them with tape. Absolutely perfect setup. If I can find the link to pictures I posted here last year I will add it later. This is an uncommon setup but has been done by others also with great success.
I did almost the same, except my BB cable guides are on the top, so I couldn't cross the cables. I bought a standard Novara (Jagwire) kit at REI and had to add a long rear cable (3000mm). No troubles to date, 9-speed indexed works great. No sluggishness or feel of excess friction.

rsacilotto is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 11:09 AM
  #18  
surfjimc
Used to be fast
 
surfjimc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: So Cal
Posts: 580

Bikes: 85 Specialized Expedition, 07 Motobecane Immortal Spirit built up with Dura ace and Mavic Ksyriums, '85 Bianchi Track Bike, '90 Fisher Procaliber, '96 Landshark TwinDirt Shark Tandem, '88 Curtlo

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have mine routed under the tape all the way to the top where they exit with the aero brake cables, just like in the post above that popped in while I was writing this. The bars are also double wrapped with Cinelli cork and leather over that. I have large hands and it makes for a very thick, comfortable grip. I really want to replace the Shimano brake levers with the Cane Creek levers like in the pic above because they are so much wider and more comfortable.
surfjimc is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 04:59 PM
  #19  
rodar y rodar
weirdo
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by brooklyn_bike View Post
i like this idea of routing along side the brake cables for non aero-brakes. if you have any other photos of the details (i.e. exiting the brake hoods) i'd love to see them. thank you.
Well, it`s pretty straight forward really, not much to see. The first time I did that, my hoods were very old and rotted, so I just pushed the housing through the hole with the brake housing. When I installed new hoods last winter, it would have been a very tight squeeze, so I chopped the tit off the top of the new hoods, leaving a slightly bigger hole. I use a few wraps of electrical tape to keep both together, but it probably doesn`t make much difference. You can see here how the docked hoods go and electrical tape about ready for "clean up" trim.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN2161.jpg (89.6 KB, 221 views)
rodar y rodar is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 06:54 PM
  #20  
Chris_in_Miami
missing in action
 
Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,579
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked 43 Times in 24 Posts
Originally Posted by rodar y rodar View Post
Well, it`s pretty straight forward really, not much to see. The first time I did that, my hoods were very old and rotted, so I just pushed the housing through the hole with the brake housing. When I installed new hoods last winter, it would have been a very tight squeeze, so I chopped the tit off the top of the new hoods, leaving a slightly bigger hole. I use a few wraps of electrical tape to keep both together, but it probably doesn`t make much difference. You can see here how the docked hoods go and electrical tape about ready for "clean up" trim.
That's brilliant, great idea!
Chris_in_Miami is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jambon
Touring
26
12-22-15 01:10 PM
vwchad
Bicycle Mechanics
19
08-12-14 06:21 PM
ryanwood
Bicycle Mechanics
15
03-28-12 05:55 PM
CNY James
Touring
29
01-23-10 09:59 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.