Let's Talk Titanium
#51
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2
Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB
Stuff that wasn't around or that wasn't readily affordable when I bought the old road bike:
- integrated brake/shift levers (a.k.a. "brifters")
- indexed shifting
- carbon fiber frames that are insanely stiff yet still all-day comfortable
- relaxed/endurance geometry frames
- affordable aerodynamic frames and wheels
I've test-ridden Shimano's Dura-Ace Di2 electronic shifting it's pretty impressive, too! Ultra-smooth shifts while hammering at full-power, no need to "trim" the front derailleur, etc. A bit too pricey today, but in a few more years...
You must own relatively recent frames then. Support for 27" wheels/tires, 126mm rear hub spacing, and 1" steerers is dwindling rapidly. Obviously you can still find these things, but your selection is much more limited than if you were using "modern" sizes.
- integrated brake/shift levers (a.k.a. "brifters")
- indexed shifting
- carbon fiber frames that are insanely stiff yet still all-day comfortable
- relaxed/endurance geometry frames
- affordable aerodynamic frames and wheels
I've test-ridden Shimano's Dura-Ace Di2 electronic shifting it's pretty impressive, too! Ultra-smooth shifts while hammering at full-power, no need to "trim" the front derailleur, etc. A bit too pricey today, but in a few more years...
Personally I've yet to find any newer components that can't be fitted to the older frames
You must own relatively recent frames then. Support for 27" wheels/tires, 126mm rear hub spacing, and 1" steerers is dwindling rapidly. Obviously you can still find these things, but your selection is much more limited than if you were using "modern" sizes.
#52
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: BiknBrian brand custom 26 inch commuter trekker, Cannondale F600 Single Speeded MTB, Nashbar Cro-Mo CX, some other bikes and parts that could be made into bikes.
The talk about electronic shifting and carbon fiber initially didn't concern me. If I became that concerned about outright perfromance it would make sense to have a dedicated fast road bike. But it would be weird to have built up a nice 27 in bike and watch the support for it slowly fade away. Who's to say that some key component spec won't be fazed out in the name of real or just purported benefit. Who's to say that my preferences for frame geometry can't change just enough that what was once perfect is no longer quite right. More and more it is making sense for me to buy something of reasonable quality that is spec'ed the way I want it but not to go all out, cost be damned, assuming that it will be a forever bike. In order words just make a reasonable, well thought out, balanced decision.
#53
The talk about electronic shifting and carbon fiber initially didn't concern me. If I became that concerned about outright perfromance it would make sense to have a dedicated fast road bike. But it would be weird to have built up a nice 27 in bike and watch the support for it slowly fade away. Who's to say that some key component spec won't be fazed out in the name of real or just purported benefit. Who's to say that my preferences for frame geometry can't change just enough that what was once perfect is no longer quite right. More and more it is making sense for me to buy something of reasonable quality that is spec'ed the way I want it but not to go all out, cost be damned, assuming that it will be a forever bike. In order words just make a reasonable, well thought out, balanced decision.
#54
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,119
Likes: 159
From: Kalamazoo, Mi.
Bikes: Sam, The Hunq and that Old Guy, Soma Buena Vista, Giant Talon 2, Brompton
Personally, I loved the one Salsa Vaya Ti that I saw. But for loaded touring, steel makes more sense. The couple of pounds you might save on the frame is negated by the load of equipment carried on a tour. But one dealer tried to sell me on a custom TI because "a steel one might get a scratch, you wouldn't want that!"
I love my Hunqapillar,

all 30+ pounds of it!
Marc
I love my Hunqapillar,
all 30+ pounds of it!
Marc
#55
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
I know I'm chiming in late, but there was an on going blog last summer in the NY Times from a reporter who successfully biked across the country. He had a custom Independent Fabrications Ti frame, it was a credit card tour - I.E. motels and restaurants, but the bike carried a tent and sleeping bag, but no cooking gear. I recall about the only thing the author wished for differently was a drop handlebar instead of flat bar, for different hand positions.
Still, expensive bike and not really needed. My Miyata steel tourer is 14 years old this year, lot's and lot's of commuting and touring, where as my Lemond titanium racign bike had a crack develop that Trek would not warranty (I had had the bike painted). I'm all for steel in this application especially as there are so many, many great choices and options not found in titanium, unless custom.
Still, expensive bike and not really needed. My Miyata steel tourer is 14 years old this year, lot's and lot's of commuting and touring, where as my Lemond titanium racign bike had a crack develop that Trek would not warranty (I had had the bike painted). I'm all for steel in this application especially as there are so many, many great choices and options not found in titanium, unless custom.
#56
I can't speak for sstorkel, but since 2001, road bikes have added:
• Carbon fiber frames
• compact frames
• curved tubing
• the whole "endurance road bike" category
• aero wheels and frames
• compact double drivetrains
• electronic shifting
A top-of-the-line road frame from 2001 that cost $5200 (in 2012 dollars) is roughly equivalent to a $1400 road bike today.
That said, I personally would not have a problem riding a ten year old road bike, as long as it's in good shape, has STI/brifters, and I can easily get compatible parts.
And since my current bikes work just fine, I'm happy to wait 10 years to get a carbon-fiber endurance frame with electronic shifting for $1500.
• Carbon fiber frames
• compact frames
• curved tubing
• the whole "endurance road bike" category
• aero wheels and frames
• compact double drivetrains
• electronic shifting
A top-of-the-line road frame from 2001 that cost $5200 (in 2012 dollars) is roughly equivalent to a $1400 road bike today.
That said, I personally would not have a problem riding a ten year old road bike, as long as it's in good shape, has STI/brifters, and I can easily get compatible parts.
And since my current bikes work just fine, I'm happy to wait 10 years to get a carbon-fiber endurance frame with electronic shifting for $1500.

I've also got an 80s era road bike with downtube shifters. Freewheels can be special ordered, but it's unclear for how long. The rims can only take wire-bead tires, which narrows tire choice. Raising and lowering the handlebars is a snap, but changing stem length would be a huge PITA. 7-speed STI is no longer available new.
For the costs and difficulties of upgrading to STI shifters, updating the drive train, and replacing the wheels, it made more sense to drop $1250 on a new road bike and make the 80s bike into my beater bike. Especially since that $1250 bike is as good as what the pros were using in 2001.
For the costs and difficulties of upgrading to STI shifters, updating the drive train, and replacing the wheels, it made more sense to drop $1250 on a new road bike and make the 80s bike into my beater bike. Especially since that $1250 bike is as good as what the pros were using in 2001.

The major 'improvements' are limited to 700x25c high performance tires and modern bar tape. The titanium railed kevlar reinforced saddle is over 20 years old. Technology hasn't changed that much.
Last edited by Burton; 07-04-12 at 12:30 AM.
#57
Modern frames also have more torsional stiffness at a lower weight than older frames. This likely makes no difference for performance, but improves handling and for some people is a preferred ride feel.
I will say I'm skeptical of many advances, they certainly aren't as significant in terms of performance as manufacturers insist. It's all about ride feel, handling and convenience. (Thus, I for one can't wait until electronic shifting and pedal-based power meters become affordable....)
I'd also point out that few of these changes make a difference in a touring context.
Originally Posted by Burton
Just my oinion - I happen to LIKE down tube shifters.

I dislike downtube shifters, and I'm fairly confident I'm in the majority. DT would be a huge PITA with 9- or 10-speed drivetrains. Barcons were a big step up, and STI is easier to use than DT or barcons.
Compact doubles are also more convenient than triples, though I'd still go with a triple for touring.
#58
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,401
Likes: 19
I use Dura-Ace 9 speed with indexed downtube shifters and don't see it as a PITA at all. I actually wonder why anyone would think it is.
I also use compact (super compact, I guess) doubles - that have been around since the 1940s, at least.
But I don't bother with carbon fiber, compact frames, curved tubing, "aero", or electronic shifting because, for my purposes at least, they offer dubious advantages, or are actually worse than what we had before. YMMV...
I also use compact (super compact, I guess) doubles - that have been around since the 1940s, at least.
But I don't bother with carbon fiber, compact frames, curved tubing, "aero", or electronic shifting because, for my purposes at least, they offer dubious advantages, or are actually worse than what we had before. YMMV...
#59
just another gosling


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20,556
Likes: 2,667
From: Everett, WA
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Just as it is in automobiles, the greatest improvement in bike performance is in the tires. That's a fact.
I prefer brifters, as I can shift while standing and they are quicker. The first time (many years ago) I rode behind a bike which had the new brifters, the performance and convenience advantages were obvious. I still run barcons on one of my bikes because they do have a slight advantage in weight and reliability. I don't bother with "modern" compacts, since riding behind them convinced me that triples are much better unless one has the youth and strength to turn a conventional 53-39 double. See, it's all personal. Do what you want.
I prefer brifters, as I can shift while standing and they are quicker. The first time (many years ago) I rode behind a bike which had the new brifters, the performance and convenience advantages were obvious. I still run barcons on one of my bikes because they do have a slight advantage in weight and reliability. I don't bother with "modern" compacts, since riding behind them convinced me that triples are much better unless one has the youth and strength to turn a conventional 53-39 double. See, it's all personal. Do what you want.
#60
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,401
Likes: 19
It was either 1989 or 1990 when several teams used brifters in the TdF for the first time - and LeMond still won, using friction downtube shifters. I won't claim that brifters are worse than other choices, but I don't see them as a serious advantage, either.
#61
So we're down to 'significant cost' of upgrading an older bike basically. So let me put this on the table for thought. Tires, tubes, cables, bar-tape and brake pads are expendables. Eventually they have to be replaced. Same for cassettes, drive chains, bottom brackets and chainrings. The component cost and installation costs are identical regardless of the age of the frame they're going on. 'Aero' components are only an advantage over 40km/h and usually weigh more. Their main application (outside styling) is in TT events and solo riders on closed tracks. Todays high end bicycle frames are slightly lighter than high end frames 20 years back, but not necessarily stiffer or stronger. Cheap frames on the other hand still are and always have been a compromise.
So that 1988 Miyata with an Ultegra 10 speed cassette, Ultegra 6600 wheel-set, 10 speed DuraAce DT shifters, DuraAce chain, Continental GP 4000 700x 25c tires, Original Shimano 600 single pole brakes with updated Ultegra pads, Shimano bar tape and Avocet O2 kevlar saddle with titanium rails is more retro in style than in reality. Equipment and performance is very similar to that Specialized Roubaix Ultegra it hangs beside. Stick a couple water bottles on the Roubaix and the weight difference dissappears anyway.
So that 1988 Miyata with an Ultegra 10 speed cassette, Ultegra 6600 wheel-set, 10 speed DuraAce DT shifters, DuraAce chain, Continental GP 4000 700x 25c tires, Original Shimano 600 single pole brakes with updated Ultegra pads, Shimano bar tape and Avocet O2 kevlar saddle with titanium rails is more retro in style than in reality. Equipment and performance is very similar to that Specialized Roubaix Ultegra it hangs beside. Stick a couple water bottles on the Roubaix and the weight difference dissappears anyway.
#62
I like brifters, but have been enjoying the dt shifters on my ultralight touring bike. Bar ends I never liked. I had a pair of dura ace ones way back in the day and only used them for a fairly brief period before going back to dt ones.
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Pete in Tallahassee
Check out my profile, articles, and trip journals at:
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#63
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2
Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB
So we're down to 'significant cost' of upgrading an older bike basically. So let me put this on the table for thought. Tires, tubes, cables, bar-tape and brake pads are expendables. Eventually they have to be replaced. Same for cassettes, drive chains, bottom brackets and chainrings. The component cost and installation costs are identical regardless of the age of the frame they're going on.
'Aero' components are only an advantage over 40km/h and usually weigh more. Their main application (outside styling) is in TT events and solo riders on closed tracks.
Todays high end bicycle frames are slightly lighter than high end frames 20 years back, but not necessarily stiffer or stronger.
#64
Firm but gentle

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 694
Likes: 172
From: Oregon
Bikes: Custom Ti Quiring 29Plus, 2005 Litespeed Tuscany, Carver Gnarvester, Soma Pescadero, Jamis Hybrid
Pros sometimes are suspicious of new technology and prefer something they have grown up using. I worked with 2 top pro riders in San Francisco (Paul Watson - a TdF rider, and Doug Shapiro, who was a team mate as a Junior with Lemond). They had some great stories and insights into the life of the top guys in cycling. The fact that Lemond won the Tour on friction shifters over lesser riders only means he was that much superior. Gearing isn't so important when you have that much torque and power on tap. I was racing in the Bay Area and northern California when STI first came out, and would laugh at the weight weenies with their DT shifters (STI had a 12 ounce penalty when first introduced) as I shifted while standing and climbing.
Pros would, 20 years ago, sometimes climb in a bigger gear than necessary to establish dominance and psyche out the competition.
It doesn't matter who you are, you will climb faster up anything significant with brifters.
Let's talk about TITANIUM: Worth every penny for almost any application in my book, including loaded touring, but that's just me.
#65
Originally Posted by sstorkel;14442643
If you had [I
If you had [I
any [/I]experience riding a modern aero road bike (ex: Cervelo S-series) into a head wind, I don't think you'd be saying this... FYI, the commonly accepted belief is that aerodynamic components provide benefit at any speed and that they provide significant benefits starting around 18mph (29kph)
You're seriously out of touch: my current road bike is 6lbs lighter than the bike it replaced (16lbs vs 22lbs). The new frame is significantly stiffer than the old one. As an example, the new bike doesn't feel like a wet noodle when sprinting uphill. And that's after only 15 years of change (1994 vs 2009).
You're seriously out of touch: my current road bike is 6lbs lighter than the bike it replaced (16lbs vs 22lbs). The new frame is significantly stiffer than the old one. As an example, the new bike doesn't feel like a wet noodle when sprinting uphill. And that's after only 15 years of change (1994 vs 2009).
Personally I happen to work in the industry and can test ride just about anything on the market. The latest demo thats still in the store is a completely carbon-Campy equipped Formigli road bike. And personally I think Argon 18 make better bikes than Cervelo - but hey - maybe thats why we sell them.
Last edited by Burton; 07-06-12 at 03:25 AM.
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