Let's Talk Titanium
#26
For a touring rig I'd take titanium or steel over carbon fiber or aluminum any day. Not because the those materials are inferior, but simply because those other frames use derailleur hangers and derailleur hangers haven't been standardized. Working in a shop I'm aware that there are currently over 20 pages of jobber hangers on the market intended to replace hangers that different manufacturers have stopped supporting over the years. I guess anything is available if you're willing to wait long enough and pay enough money - but most touring cyclists have at least a timeline to respect.
May pick up a titanium frame myself eventually just for the corrosion resistance. Not sure how to assign a price/value to that, but roadies seem to have no issues justifing Di2 systems for a lot more money - and those are guaranteed to last a fraction of the time a frame will.
May pick up a titanium frame myself eventually just for the corrosion resistance. Not sure how to assign a price/value to that, but roadies seem to have no issues justifing Di2 systems for a lot more money - and those are guaranteed to last a fraction of the time a frame will.
Last edited by Burton; 07-01-12 at 12:29 PM.
#27
Conquer Cancer rider
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,040
Likes: 1
From: Toronto
Bikes: Fun bike, city bike, touring bike, swish new ebike, Bike Friday
I have a ti road bike and I adore it. But I wouldn't go ti for touring. You don't need the weight premium it offers over steel because you are carrying so much extra stuff, and steel will give you the same sort of a comfortable ride.
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#29
Banned
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,804
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
#30
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 7
From: SE Michigan
Bikes: Serotta CRL, Litespeed Blue Ridge, Bacchetta Ti Aero, Cannondale delta V, 67 Schwinn Sting Ray stick shift.
I tour on a Litespeed Blue Ride that I found cheap on craigslist. It is lite, stiff and handles a 40 lb touring load easy. The frame soaks up road vibration very well, but so does wider tires. I love having no paint to scratch. It is gorgeous to look at. And, if I were looking for a touring specific rig no way would I pay what it cost new. I would go with an LHT for 1/4 the price.
Last edited by Worknomore; 07-01-12 at 10:31 AM.
#31
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 699
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From: Colorado Springs
Bikes: Gunnar Crosshairs, Giant Trance, Felt Breed, Marin SS MTB, Felt Pyre BMX bike, oldschool GT trials bike
I think it comes down to disposable income, someone like myself who makes under $20k a year would have a much harder time justifying a Ti frame than someone who makes $100k a year. If the cost of the frame will keep you from getting the components you want then I feel it is a bad idea, if you can still spec the Ti bike the way you want then I would say go for it, especially if you plan to ride the bike unloaded quite a bit as Ti is a fantastic material.
#32
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 34
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From: Inland Empire
Bikes: Sycip Unleaded, Raleigh SS, Trek 1.5
I'm from the school of getting what I want so I will never have that "if only" thought hanging out in the back of my mind.
After riding my first real MTB in 99 and deciding that I really love cycling I dreamt of a steel MTB hardtail with the best parts I can afford and I made it happen in 2001. 12 years later, I still ride it and have no desire to get a "better" MTB.
If you really enjoy whatever it is you wish to lavish a good sum of money on, the purchase price is quickly forgotten.
After riding my first real MTB in 99 and deciding that I really love cycling I dreamt of a steel MTB hardtail with the best parts I can afford and I made it happen in 2001. 12 years later, I still ride it and have no desire to get a "better" MTB.
If you really enjoy whatever it is you wish to lavish a good sum of money on, the purchase price is quickly forgotten.
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2
Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB
For a touring rig I'd take titanium or steel over carbon fiber or aluminum any day. Not because the those materials are inferior, but simply because those other frames use derailleur hangers and derailleur hangers haven't been standardized. Working in a shop I'm aware that there are currently over 20 pages of jobber hangers on the market intended to replace hangers that different manufacturers have stopped supporting over the years. I guess anything is available if you're willing to wait long enough and pay enough money - but most touring cyclists have at least a timeline to respect.
#34
Yeah - I did that recently for a customer that had an earlier model Cannondale. So far the wait's been 2 months. I guess thats hardly a problem - he can always go next year instead.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428
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Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB
This is why I order a spare derailleur hanger when I order the frame it fits. I've yet to have a case where the frame and hanger didn't show up in the same week...
#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 352
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: BiknBrian brand custom 26 inch commuter trekker, Cannondale F600 Single Speeded MTB, Nashbar Cro-Mo CX, some other bikes and parts that could be made into bikes.
Thanks, the hanger discusson reminded me to pick up another hanger for my curent bike. I have an emergeny one that looks like it will fit many different bikes, but also might restrict gear options. Fine for a day trip, but not what I'd want to rely on on a long tour. I actually had a freak incident with a broken hockey stick in a patch of high grass ruin my day once so I know they do get broken. And on the GAP this weekend there were tons of sticks and debris from some storms just waiting to swing up and ruin somebody's day or or even week.
#37
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
I've got a ti road bike (Merckx AX) and several steel road bikes, including a Bob Jackson World Tour. I absolutely love my ti Merckx for long recreational rides and supported tours. However, unless you have money to burn, I don't see the bang-for-the-buck in buying a ti touring frame. By the time you get your touring bike loaded, the weight savings from a ti frame would be negligible. The only real advantages of ti over steel are marginal weight savings, rust resistance and not having to worry about paint chipping. My ti bike only weighs about 1/2 lb less than comparably equipped steel bikes, so that's a non-issue. Rust is also a non-issue if you treat a steel bike with frame saver, clean it regularly and touch up an paint chips. Paint chipping is only an issue if you are rough on your bikes.
#38
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 352
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: BiknBrian brand custom 26 inch commuter trekker, Cannondale F600 Single Speeded MTB, Nashbar Cro-Mo CX, some other bikes and parts that could be made into bikes.
I'm from the school of getting what I want so I will never have that "if only" thought hanging out in the back of my mind.
After riding my first real MTB in 99 and deciding that I really love cycling I dreamt of a steel MTB hardtail with the best parts I can afford and I made it happen in 2001. 12 years later, I still ride it and have no desire to get a "better" MTB.
If you really enjoy whatever it is you wish to lavish a good sum of money on, the purchase price is quickly forgotten.
After riding my first real MTB in 99 and deciding that I really love cycling I dreamt of a steel MTB hardtail with the best parts I can afford and I made it happen in 2001. 12 years later, I still ride it and have no desire to get a "better" MTB.
If you really enjoy whatever it is you wish to lavish a good sum of money on, the purchase price is quickly forgotten.
My motivation for doing something is very important to me. I can't covince myself that a more expensive bike is all that much better. I can't say that I really need more than what will do the job. But I can recognize that my reality is all about continually taking in and continually pouring out. Life, time, energy, and even cold hard cash, it comes as fast as it goes. Here one day, gone the next, but always replaced by something else. If I want to I can dip into that flow and pull out something I will cherish. Or I can turn it into something else. But if I don't choose something, all that money (and time and energy and life experience) has a remarkable tendency of turning into unappreciated waste.
#40
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 252
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Moots and Seven are trusted names but currently think Firefly is offering some well thought out and beautifully executed rigs. The principals split off from Indy Fab when they had their move, and are quite experienced at titanium.
Would love to explore this option myself, but afraid the SO might, justifiably, pull a Bobbit if I did. Safer to enable another.
Would love to explore this option myself, but afraid the SO might, justifiably, pull a Bobbit if I did. Safer to enable another.
#42
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
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From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
I don't know how that works, but this process psychologically will satiate a part of your mind. If you were careful in envisioning your dream (touring) bicycle, most likely you won't be longing for another one, possibly for the rest of your life. It will be a unique, personalized and functional piece of equipment that was made just for you. That's difficult to match!
#43
It's true, man.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,726
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From: North Texas
Bikes: Cannondale T1000, Inbred SS 29er, Supercaliber 29er, Crescent Mark XX, Burley Rumba Tandem
#44
Originally Posted by syciprider
If you really enjoy whatever it is you wish to lavish a good sum of money on, the purchase price is quickly forgotten.

Plus I can do literally anything on my $1300 steel touring bike that I could do on the $4000 ti bike.
#45
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
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From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
I'm pretty sure if I dropped $4000 on a ti bike, and the frame broke or it got stolen, I'd remember that purchase price pretty quickly.
Plus I can do literally anything on my $1300 steel touring bike that I could do on the $4000 ti bike.
Last edited by Chris Pringle; 07-03-12 at 04:16 AM.
#46
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2
Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB
Maybe... I took a 10-year hiatus from bicycling. When I came back to the sport, I found that the expensive road bike I used to love wasn't nearly as nice as I had remembered. And when I compared it to a brand-new bike, I was surprised at just how much better the technology had gotten since I'd been away! I upgraded the drive-train components and rode the old bike for a few months, but eventually sold it and bought a more modern bike. The new bike is phenomenally good! But I doubt I'll be riding it 30, 20, or even 10 years from now...
#47
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 29
From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
Maybe... I took a 10-year hiatus from bicycling. When I came back to the sport, I found that the expensive road bike I used to love wasn't nearly as nice as I had remembered. And when I compared it to a brand-new bike, I was surprised at just how much better the technology had gotten since I'd been away! I upgraded the drive-train components and rode the old bike for a few months, but eventually sold it and bought a more modern bike. The new bike is phenomenally good! But I doubt I'll be riding it 30, 20, or even 10 years from now...
#48
Maybe... I took a 10-year hiatus from bicycling. When I came back to the sport, I found that the expensive road bike I used to love wasn't nearly as nice as I had remembered. And when I compared it to a brand-new bike, I was surprised at just how much better the technology had gotten since I'd been away! I upgraded the drive-train components and rode the old bike for a few months, but eventually sold it and bought a more modern bike. The new bike is phenomenally good! But I doubt I'll be riding it 30, 20, or even 10 years from now...
#49
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Netherlands
As someone who also has only superficial knowledge about Ti, I find it hard to believe that the material has no advantages for touring; its resilience seems a rather obvious benefit. But never having broken a steel frame, the practical advantage might not be noticeable.
For the same amount of money, I could afford a custom steel frame. And fit trumps most other considerations for me. So I probably would not buy a titanium frame even if I could afford it. Unless, ofcourse, I won the lottery. Then the Italian builders from Tommassini would see my order for a custom Ti audax bike.
For the same amount of money, I could afford a custom steel frame. And fit trumps most other considerations for me. So I probably would not buy a titanium frame even if I could afford it. Unless, ofcourse, I won the lottery. Then the Italian builders from Tommassini would see my order for a custom Ti audax bike.
#50
I can't speak for sstorkel, but since 2001, road bikes have added:
• Carbon fiber frames
• compact frames
• curved tubing
• the whole "endurance road bike" category
• aero wheels and frames
• compact double drivetrains
• electronic shifting
A top-of-the-line road frame from 2001 that cost $5200 (in 2012 dollars) is roughly equivalent to a $1400 road bike today.
That said, I personally would not have a problem riding a ten year old road bike, as long as it's in good shape, has STI/brifters, and I can easily get compatible parts.
And since my current bikes work just fine, I'm happy to wait 10 years to get a carbon-fiber endurance frame with electronic shifting for $1500.
I've also got an 80s era road bike with downtube shifters. Freewheels can be special ordered, but it's unclear for how long. The rims can only take wire-bead tires, which narrows tire choice. Raising and lowering the handlebars is a snap, but changing stem length would be a huge PITA. 7-speed STI is no longer available new.
For the costs and difficulties of upgrading to STI shifters, updating the drive train, and replacing the wheels, it made more sense to drop $1250 on a new road bike and make the 80s bike into my beater bike. Especially since that $1250 bike is as good as what the pros were using in 2001.
• Carbon fiber frames
• compact frames
• curved tubing
• the whole "endurance road bike" category
• aero wheels and frames
• compact double drivetrains
• electronic shifting
A top-of-the-line road frame from 2001 that cost $5200 (in 2012 dollars) is roughly equivalent to a $1400 road bike today.
That said, I personally would not have a problem riding a ten year old road bike, as long as it's in good shape, has STI/brifters, and I can easily get compatible parts.
And since my current bikes work just fine, I'm happy to wait 10 years to get a carbon-fiber endurance frame with electronic shifting for $1500.

Originally Posted by Burton
I have myself a road bike thats 27 years old and a hybrid thats 18 years old as well as a much more recent Specialized Roubaix Ultegra and a completely custom built CF mtb for trail riding. Personally I've yet to find any newer components that can't be fitted to the older frames....
For the costs and difficulties of upgrading to STI shifters, updating the drive train, and replacing the wheels, it made more sense to drop $1250 on a new road bike and make the 80s bike into my beater bike. Especially since that $1250 bike is as good as what the pros were using in 2001.





