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  1. #4726
    Chip seal rocks Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    I have no doubt a three speed is more economical than most other bikes, but I've never heard the cost of cycling compared with that of walking. Could that possibly be true?
    I think I figured about a hundred bucks for a good pair of shoes and maybe 600-800 miiles, meaning 12.5 to about 16 cents per mile for walking.

    Just to double check, a quick search turned up this article
    http://sneakerreport.com/news/the-10...ailable-today/
    with an average of around $100 and a recommendation to throw them out at 500-600 miles. 16 to 20 cents a mile. For reference my "serious" running friends are into it at about 30 cents a mile.

    The Sports cost me around $80 altogether (including new tires and tubes) and at that time I had about 2000 miles on it. That's between 4 and 5 cents per mile - if it disappeared on that afternoon. It has more miles on it now, and I've also replaced some other bits (grips, brake pads, cotters, etc). More than half of the miles have been commuting or errands. It's been a pretty good value for me. I rode it on the 25 mile round trip commute last week, so it's still turning "revenue" miles.

    If I sold the bike for $50, the cost per mile would go way down. I wouldn't expect shoes to retain much value after 1000 miles .

    The newer more (ahem) "specialized" bike I bought for commuting has not been economical, taking a new fork (recall), a new rear wheel (cheaply made), and new tires and some other things. It has been more expensive than walking, FWIW.

  2. #4727
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Howard, interesting. The price you paid is atypical, but it's fun to read through your numbers. I've never thought about how many miles my shoes have gone.

    In any case, if someone shows me that I'm spending too much on bikes, I'm not going to stop.

    gna, thank you for the bad news and the suggestion. I wrote Mark a get-well email.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  3. #4728
    Chip seal rocks Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    Howard, interesting. The price you paid is atypical, ...l.
    it was about 20 for the bike, and 60 in bits.
    I think the prices must be regional and seasonal. I enjoy pulling them apart and putting them back together.
    Sometimes it takes a while, but sometimes they show up for not very much, and in surprisingly good shape. This was less ...

  4. #4729
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    I can probably beat Howard's numbers... I bought a 1970/1 Raleigh Sports Standard back in 1982 for $25 (~$60 today) and used it as my only form of transportation for 4 years and my main transportation for 4 more after that. It survived 4 years of college with my brother and is still being used in town as a beer bike. It has well over 35,000 miles on it. The fork was replaced along with the off side crank arm and pedal when my brother ran into a parked car on night when it went neutral on him. Those came from the local co-op. Everything else has been inexpensive off the shelf replacement parts. I would be surprised if the the overall operation costs exceeded a tenth of a cent a mile. I did just recently increase the value by quite a bit... I added a new bottle generator and new lights. The enjoyment of that bike has been priceless.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  5. #4730
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    Boy, do I love this thread - still working on reading through it all, though!
    Just bought my second Raleigh 3-speed, and can't wait to get it up and running. My first one was bought four years ago for $15, a 1973 LTD-3, which I cleaned up (with advice from the C&V forum), installed new tubes, tires and brake pads, then brought to my LBS for a tuneup. This time, I'm hoping to do a bit more work myself. My new purchase is a 1974 Raleigh Sports, bought from the original owner (thru Craigslist) for $50, which included the owners manual, vinyl saddle bag and multi-tool.


    I pumped up the rotten tires and was shocked that they actually held air for at least a week, but they will be replaced anyway. The gear shift cable will also need to be replaced, as it's starting to fray in an exposed area near the chainring. This will be something new for me to attempt, but I think I can handle it (fingers crossed!).
    I plan to replace the brake pads with Kool Stop Continental salmon pads, but I'm not sure about the brake cables. They seem to work just fine in spite of sitting idle for years, but how does one know when to replace them? Should I just lube them? I think the brake cables on my LTD were replaced when it was tuned up at the LBS, but I don't remember if it was my call or theirs. I'm trying to keep costs down, but not at the expense of safety.
    That's all for now. I'll continue searching this forum for tips as I work on my new old bike - such a wealth of experience and inspiration here!
    Lynn
    Last edited by bikelitelynn; 10-02-13 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Fixed IMG

  6. #4731
    Chip seal rocks Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelitelynn View Post
    Boy, do I love this thread - still working on reading through it all, though!
    Just bought my second Raleigh 3-speed, and can't wait to get it up and running. My first one was bought four years ago for $15, a 1973 LTD-3, which I cleaned up (with advice from the C&V forum), installed new tubes, tires and brake pads, then brought to my LBS for a tuneup. This time, I'm hoping to do a bit more work myself. My new purchase is a 1974 Raleigh Sports, bought from the original owner (thru Craigslist) for $50, which included the owners manual, vinyl saddle bag and multi-tool.... The gear shift cable will also need to be replaced, as it's starting to fray in an exposed area near the chainring. This will be something new for me to attempt, but I think I can handle it (fingers crossed!).

    ...
    I like it ... The pic I posted earlier belongs to SWMBO (she who must be obeyed), and I discovered that for just getting around town I like the step through/ladies frame ...
    So ... last night I picked up the twin of your brown 74 Sports (hub is 74-1). It's rougher than yours, but not beyond saving. I think the chrome on the rims is mostly gone :-( but I have an extra wheel :-) .

    Cable replacement advise here:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/cable.html

  7. #4732
    gna
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelitelynn View Post
    I plan to replace the brake pads with Kool Stop Continental salmon pads, but I'm not sure about the brake cables. They seem to work just fine in spite of sitting idle for years, but how does one know when to replace them? Should I just lube them? I think the brake cables on my LTD were replaced when it was tuned up at the LBS, but I don't remember if it was my call or theirs. I'm trying to keep costs down, but not at the expense of safety.
    Lynn
    The cables seem a bit heavier on these old Raleighs, so I'm inclined to keep using them. Spray some lube or drip some oil into the cables and work them a bit, especially the upturned cable on the rear brake--it can catch water.
    Quote Originally Posted by shipwreck View Post
    Sure it works in practice, but will it work in theory.

  8. #4733
    Senior Member markk900's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelitelynn View Post
    My new purchase is a 1974 Raleigh Sports, bought from the original owner (thru Craigslist) for $50, which included the owners manual, vinyl saddle bag and multi-tool.
    Last year I picked up an almost identical bike for my sister - it too came with the bag, but no manual or tool. It did have a functioning bike lock and some pant clips though. Also that awesome original mileage counter.

    I paid $75 in Canada and only put tires and tubes into it....this is a 74 based on the hub....



    The frame polishes up nicely and the paint is really nice.
    Last edited by markk900; 10-02-13 at 03:59 PM.

  9. #4734
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard View Post
    I like it ... The pic I posted earlier belongs to SWMBO (she who must be obeyed), and I discovered that for just getting around town I like the step through/ladies frame ...
    So ... last night I picked up the twin of your brown 74 Sports (hub is 74-1). It's rougher than yours, but not beyond saving. I think the chrome on the rims is mostly gone :-( but I have an extra wheel :-) .

    Cable replacement advise here:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/cable.html
    Photo, please! I love seeing the Before shots just as much as the Afters.
    Good thing you have a spare wheel. I haven't cleaned my wheels yet, but they don't look bad at all, just dirty with a light sprinkling of pitting. The handlebars had less pitting, and after polishing with No. 7 Chrome and Metal Polish, they look brand spanking new! I'm anxious to try the No. 7 polish on the rims now. On my LTD I had used Barkeeper's Friend, since it was recommended to remove the thick black brake residue. It removed it easily and left the chrome shiny, but the No. 7 seems to add a shine and gloss. I guess it's like washing a car, compared to washing and waxing it.
    I will definitely be using Sheldon Brown's step-by-step instructions for replacing the S-A cable. Without his site and this forum, I would never have the confidence to buy and fix up an old 3-speed. I don't know anyone with an interest in old bikes, so I am completely reliant on the internet. At least it's available at all times of the day and night!

  10. #4735
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    I still have OEM brake cables on several of my Raleighs. If they work and then ends aren't frayed you might be able to pull them from the housing and add grease, otherwise use something like Phil Wood oil and dribble it in the housings. On my Twentys I almost always get new slick cables because the braking is marginal to begin with, less so on the full sized bikes.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  11. #4736
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    I still have OEM brake cables on several of my Raleighs. If they work and then ends aren't frayed you might be able to pull them from the housing and add grease, otherwise use something like Phil Wood oil and dribble it in the housings.
    Aaron
    Quote Originally Posted by gna View Post
    The cables seem a bit heavier on these old Raleighs, so I'm inclined to keep using them. Spray some lube or drip some oil into the cables and work them a bit, especially the upturned cable on the rear brake--it can catch water.
    The front brake cable seems fine, but the rear cable is missing the crimp cap thing on the end, so the wire ends are splayed out. Any remedy, or just replace? I have Phil Wood Tenacious Oil and will use that on the front cable.

  12. #4737
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelitelynn View Post
    The front brake cable seems fine, but the rear cable is missing the crimp cap thing on the end, so the wire ends are splayed out. Any remedy, or just replace? I have Phil Wood Tenacious Oil and will use that on the front cable.
    You can still pull the whole cable assembly free from the bike and dribble oil down the side of the cable into the housing. I only grease them if I can get the cable out of the housing. I have had some luck buying NOS cables on Ebay. The old cables are a lot heavier, but he new cables have Teflon lined housings and quite often are stainless rather than galvanized, they do slide a bit easier.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  13. #4738
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    Quote Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
    Last year I picked up an almost identical bike for my sister - it too came with the bag, but no manual or tool. It did have a functioning bike lock and some pant clips though. Also that awesome original mileage counter.

    The frame polishes up nicely and the paint is really nice.
    What a beauty! The paint looks perfect. Mine has a rather large scrape through the Sports on the chain guard, unfortunately, and a few minor ones elsewhere. But I love the deep metallic brown, Coffee, to be official, and I've ordered cream tires to go with it and a coffee cup bell. I couldn't resist.
    Do you remember how many miles were on the counter when you got it?

  14. #4739
    Senior Member markk900's Avatar
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    No, don't remember mileage but it was under 300mi I think. I never liked the coffee in pictures, and the bike was pretty filthy when I got it, but I was amazed once I cleaned it up....as you can tell the picture was taken in spring - when the sun came out the bike was glowing....

    Cream tires - GREAT idea!

  15. #4740
    Senior Member Salubrious's Avatar
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    Sad to hear that Mark got hurt!

    Mark of Bikesmith makes an excellent cotter press. Once you use it you will wonder why and how you got along without it should you ever service a cottered crank.

  16. #4741
    Senior Member michael k's Avatar
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    Ran acroos this little number at pawn shop. Shes flawless,Date code on hud is '74.Interesting it has both coaster and hand brake.


  17. #4742
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    My mum-in-law's bike is a Schwinn Collegiate (I think) with that handbrake in front, coaster in back setup. My wife hates coaster brakes, so even though it's been in our garage for many months now, she prefers the Xtracycle.

  18. #4743
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael k View Post
    Ran acroos this little number at pawn shop. Shes flawless,Date code on hud is '74.Interesting it has both coaster and hand brake.

    The coaster brake/hand brake combination was pretty much standard fare on the Space Riders and some Colts. I set my wife's Colt up the same way.

    That is a sweet find, there are not a lot of those out there. If I ever ran across one like that it would go home with me in a heartbeat. I have standing orders for those from a lot of our petite lady friends.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  19. #4744
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Whenever possible, I suggest that my customers install a front brake on their coaster equipped bicycles to improve stopping power, especially under panic conditions and to reduce the load on coaster brakes during longer descents as they can overheat, cook the grease, and fade to nothing.

  20. #4745
    gna
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    I think michael k's comment was that it has both a coaster brake AND a handbrake on the rear wheel.

    Looks very nice. I'd buy it; much better shape than the one I set up for me daughter, which incidentally, doesn't have the rear handbrake.
    Quote Originally Posted by shipwreck View Post
    Sure it works in practice, but will it work in theory.

  21. #4746
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Speaking of coaster brake failure, a neighbor of mine had a bomber bike, and while he was descending a big hill, his chain fell off. I offered to put a caliper brake on for him, but he refused and gave me the bike.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  22. #4747
    Senior Member michael k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gna View Post
    I think michael k's comment was that it has both a coaster brake AND a handbrake on the rear wheel.
    Sorry, my bad! That is correct.

    This is the first one of these I've seen and the first raleigh I come across with 24 inch wheels.Had a feeling it;s some what rare.
    The rear wheel looked to have more use than the rest of the bike and google search shows the heron chainrings on this year which led me to think the rear coaster may not have been original to the bike.

  23. #4748
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    Found a nice 23" Sports in the Florence, SC area several months back and my bride picked it up a few weeks back when she had a conference in Myrtle Beach.

    A '74, it has all five original red Raleigh "R" nuts that were "stock" that year and is in pretty fine all-original shape.

    Been so busy that I haven't really had time to go through things on it but I have rubbed a couple of treatments of Proofide into the original B-72.

    Seeking input on how to best preserve this 40+ year old saddle. It's in pretty good shape but had become pretty dry from never having been treated. It's very comfortable and I'm tightening it up slowly but would like to get input about whether I'm taking the optimum approach.


    GEDC1026.jpgGEDC1028.jpg

  24. #4749
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Found a nice 23" Sports in the Florence, SC area several months back and my bride picked it up a few weeks back when she had a conference in Myrtle Beach.

    A '74, it has all five original red Raleigh "R" nuts that were "stock" that year and is in pretty fine all-original shape.

    Been so busy that I haven't really had time to go through things on it but I have rubbed a couple of treatments of Proofide into the original B-72.

    Seeking input on how to best preserve this 40+ year old saddle. It's in pretty good shape but had become pretty dry from never having been treated. It's very comfortable and I'm tightening it up slowly but would like to get input about whether I'm taking the optimum approach.


    GEDC1026.jpgGEDC1028.jpg
    Nice find.

    Take it slow and easy on the B-72 an don't be surprised if it fails on you. We have had that happen to several B-72's that were in similar shape.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  25. #4750
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Nice find.

    Take it slow and easy on the B-72 an don't be surprised if it fails on you. We have had that happen to several B-72's that were in similar shape.

    Aaron
    I suspected that could well be the case. Don't guess there's any good reason to re-cover it with a new leather blank; probably be more expensive - maybe way more - than just finding a good used B-72 don't you think?

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