RFC

Thanks all. This is my favorite thread and continues to evolve and get more interesting!

Now we are in to Weight Weenie C&V Steel MTB Territory, which is a fun, futile, quirky, and interesting place to be.

Let's hypothesize. The Procaliber 26.4 is without pedals, so let's add other .6 lb and start at 27.0.

Possible weight reduction:

1) RD -- A Shimano 600 Tricolor, at 310, will save 110 grams. BTW, the 600 is actually 10 grams lighter than the 6500 Ultegra. It is my favorite C&V RD -- light, does everything, very durable and aesthetically pleasing. Down to 26.75.

2) Crank is problematic considering that this bike has a press fit square taper BB. So, I will probably keep the XT. Even so, I can remove the small chainring and screws, and save, maybe, 50 grams. 26.6.

3) The big savings would be tires and tubes. Presently, it has 1.85 WTB Slicks (520 each), puncture resistant tubes (300 over regular tubes each) and liners. I could reduce tube weight by 1.3 lbs and, by going to a 1.25 tire, 1 lb for two.

I'd say that may get us down to 24 lb. I'm going to have to try this. Lighter pedals may go under 24.

Also, I actively encourage the inclusion of C&V Ti, Alu, and Carbon frames in our little anarchistic game, but suggest that we have fuzzy categories.

For example, the Litespeed above with the fork to die for is another category. I have three Lynskey Litespeed road bikes and a Litespeed made MTB with a suspension fork. I would love to find one of the totally rigid ones, but there were only produced during a narrow time period.

Below is my mid 90's Dutch commission and Russian made (out of recycled MIGs and subs), my Ti MTB. With the rack, it weighs 25.5 lbs. Now, let's reverse engineer. Remove the 1.5 lb rack and we are at 24.0. Remove puncture resistant tubes and we are at 22.7. Lighter RD and pedals and we have 22.1. Another project to work on!



The following link is to my discussion of reducing the weight of a Cannondale ST 600.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ighlight=st600

frantik

that was my thinking when I picked up the Trek 8300 composite.. Al and Carbon frame.. yet it's still not as light as the lightest steel from that time..

Italuminium

That is a beauty. All it needs is a Flite to make it look right!

Chrome Molly

Tires, tubes, wheels, threadless, external bb crankset, ti saddle... I wonder if anyone will get sub 20 with at least 14 speeds of gearing... Didn't Miyata make some nice aluminum MTB frames? I know the newer stumpies were AL, but still thinking of doing it in a semi vintage way...

IthaDan 

Already got the flite- the seatpost shim's toast, I think I'm swapping over to a silver post anyway, so I'll be turning a new shim today at work.

cooperryder

Bill, what tires did you go with?
I am looking for a decent 26" street tire in about a 26 x 1.75 to 2" width.

Some of the weights of these tires are up there. I was hoping for no more than about 500g's per tire weight.

Thanks

wrk101

Think a lot narrower. I went with 26 - 1.25 slicks. On one bike, I used the Streetwise below (not slicks. Weight of the Nashbar Streetwise was about the same as the slicks. Realize 1.25 inches ~ 32mm. Next time I do a bike, I will go with the Streetwise 1.25.

Nashbar slicks = 346 grams. Nashbar Streetwise (1.25 inch) = 340 grams. Many MTB tires weigh in at 700 grams or more. So you could be saving 1 1/2 pounds with these two choices if you currently have MTB tires.

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...39_-1___202354

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_173251_-1

neo_pop_71

I've always looked to the godfather of weight reduction and performance... Tom Ritchey... the Ritchey branded Tom Slick tires have always been my go to tire of choice for street use, especially when they came out with the Kevlar bead Pro model (feathery at 250 grams). The Tom Slicks come in 1" to 1.4" kevlar and wire bead versions, all with great to good weights (250 to 400 grams), and best of all a fair price ($26 to $30 at Jenson USA and they'll price match anyone).

https://www.jensonusa.com/!GRRcHy3NYq...FSFxQgod300ABA

LesterOfPuppets

Olde Miyata Al frames did look nice dunno how nicely built they were. Other non-booteek, somewhat easy to find early Al exists by Trek and Raleigh.

I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of these, for the colors! I'm guessing 1991-ish:

Sixty Fiver

Miyata never built a bad bike.

LesterOfPuppets

I thought I remembered hearing about cracking headtubes, or something like that. Might have been overblown coverage of isolated incidents, though. Used to get that a lot back in early aluminum days.

wrk101

I've got one. Not Miyata's finest moments for sure.

andyfloyd

I have a Univega Alpina 5.5....right now with its full MTB gear its at 23.6lbs. If I were to put it on a diet it would be around 22 and maybe less. Its insane light. I just cannot put drops and slicks on it, its too good on the trails or else I would.

Taxi Rob

Really guys? Zero props on this one? Weight weenies hijacking show-n-tell? You hurt my tender feelings

andyfloyd

Dont Cry!!! Ill be honest Im not really feeling it too much. It looks well put together and I bet it rides great, but its just not my style. I try to keep all my bikes more period correct, but as long as you like it thats really all that matters.

inkandsilver

Props! I think it's sweet. Agree about the black seatpost.

Chrome Molly

Yeah, I'm sure my wheels and tires are the source of my 25'dom. Just lifting them, I know that's where I'm going next. With some lighter continentals alone I figure I can drop another lb. Univegas are great bikes, and any of the Miyata built steelies are good to have in my estimation.

My Croll isn't a lightweight. It's made of 531 all terrain (a heavier MTB specific set). Still it has an awesome paint job, and that's worth a lb right there.

Taxi Rob

Ahh, but that is a Deore MT60 crank on a UN72 BB, the kind with removable cups on both sides, SR pedals and a Sport LX rear derailleur

But yeah, most everything else is 90's NOS or newer.

I am considering replacing the original decals with a set from Velocals, what color do you think I should go with?

andyfloyd

A good paintjob is definitely worth a pound for sure, haha. My Univega is made of 969 Race-lite which is the same wall thickness as Columbus SL so its obviously a thin walled tubeset for sure. I could save more weight with better components ( Deore LX, DX, STX ) is what it has on it right now. It has its original Richey Rock 440 wheels which while not overly heavy are also not really light either. Also the Wildgripper tires I have on it weigh in at 500g or so. Here is a pic of it for you guys.

frantik

nice tires

andyfloyd

Gotta stick with the blue/red theme in some way wouldnt you say? Hey nothing wrong with newer parts at all, they are probably lighter and work better than the older stuff.

andyfloyd

Yea, Im not sure where those came from. LOL

gomango

Your bike is cool!

mainstreetexile 

Must have missed it the first time you posted it, it's cool to see it built up. I usually prefer more subdued colors and I'm not usually into red/white/blue stuff with really contrasty colors but I can see what you were going for with an Evil Knievel (or Super Dave?) theme.

Is that paint or powdercoat? I remember the paint being in pretty good shape but I wasn't real crazy about the original burgundy/purplish color.

I have the same FC-MT60 crank on my cimarron now with the original Biopace HP rings and I really like it. Is that a Chris King headset?

I think I'd like it more if it was all just white and blue instead of red/white/blue, but that's just my 2c. Not sure what repro decal colors are available, but I think maybe blue or a subtle/dark gray would probably look good.

Here's a picture I found of a white univega color scheme with just dark gray decals. Different model, but could be useful as a frame color/decal color reference:

mainstreetexile 

Damn. Jealous.

Is that 1" or 1 1/8" quill?