Originally Posted by chojn1

How important is a GPS for your drives?
Some people prefer maps and atlases, we would not drive anywhere new without our GPS.
The same applies to our bike. They are so much better than the map and cue sheets.
All the rallies we have been to lately have TCX files that you can download to your GPS for turn by turn direction.
We tried the handlebar mounted phone route. But the Garmin is so much more convenient, has longer battery life, and is much easier to read outdoor than the phone. I like the Edge 1000. Initially I thought it was a little pricey, but the big screen is great for my aging eyes and I am enjoying the new functionality that Garmin has continually added.

As my wife keeps reminding me, I am a little too OCD about my bikes. I like the cockpit clean and uncluttered. I worked hard to to hide all the wires and junction boxes, I could not justify adding an XTR display. Besides the D-Fly unit is less expensive, is hidden away from the elements and have less chance of failure. And, the E1000 screen has plenty of real estate for the gear indicator, even on multiple screens if needed.



If that was not geeky enough, check out my new toy:



It is a radar sensor that wirelessly connect to my Garmin display. It warns me of the number of cars behind me and how fast they are approaching before I can even hear their engine. They have the small LEDs that brighten and blink faster as the car approaches, but I found those to be insufficiently bright to do any good. So I added my own random blinkers.

Originally Posted by oldacura

I guess that I'm more old-school than others when it comes to electronics. We almost always ride in familiar territory so an map function is unnecessary. Stuff like power output etc. will only confirm that I am getting older & slower.

We have really only ridden around the block with the new bike & Di2. I hope that I don't regret this decision. One think that I like about bikes is that they are one of the last truly mechanical toys available. Now I have allowed electronics to creep into this and it is not just a gadget - it is integral to the functioning of the bike.

I just rode my older single bike yesterday. It is 2 x 10 Durace. I can run small front ring with all but the smallest rear cog with no noise. Now it appears that on the tandem I can't use any of the 3 smallest rear cogs with the small front ring. Is this because of Di2 or something else? If this is a compromise of Di2 why is this not made clear by Shimano and all of the early adopters?

Originally Posted by rm -rf

Did you try my test from a previous post? If the cage isn't touching the chain, then it's not a Di2 problem.

(I never noticed a noise from small-small cross chaining on my old Campagnolo 10 speed with 50/34. But the lift pins on the FSA chainring didn't stick out as far, either.)

To test: Off the bike, shift to the small-small combination. Slide a dollar bill in between the front derailleur cage and the chain to verify it's not touching. I can see a gap of maybe 1mm, or about the thickness of the chain plate.

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If the cage isn't rubbing, I'd contact Calfee. They must have taken chain lines, bottom bracket widths, and other relevant design parameters into account when designing the bikes.

Originally Posted by jnjtandem

Congrats on your new Calfee!!! We also just ordered a Di2 Tetra ourselves and asked for the D-Fly addon ($60 or so) for that very reason. The D-Fly easily wires in and attaches to your rear chainstay. FYI, it also transmits DI2 battery level via ANT+ which can be received by Garmin Edge 810 and 1000 models. From what I've read and youtubed, the setup just takes a few minutes. I'd think this is a huge plus for tandemers... somewhat similar to the extinct Shimano Flight-Decks.

Originally Posted by himespau

Did they ever update the firmware on the 1000 so you can have multiple bike profiles?

Edit: Sorry, I read on later and see OP doesn't want a garmin.

Originally Posted by jnjtandem

I've only had the Edge 1000 for a week now, and have been using an 800 for a year now. Both of those models support multiple bike profiles.

I've discovered the 1000 has a cool new feature called "Activity Profiles". Out of the box it comes with a "Race" mode and a "Training" mode. Each activity profile can have its own color scheme, data screens, navigation settings, alerts, etc.

Originally Posted by akexpress

My guess is you have "typical tandem" rear hub spacing of 145mm. If that is the case you are probably going to have some chain issues in the small chain ring and smaller cogs. Since the local shop thought that the cassette can be further outboard with a disc hub you need to find a better shop that actually has a clue ( sorry to be so blunt). Di2 on a tandem is exactly the same as a single except for longer wires and the possibility of a wider rear hub. I had similar issues on the small cogs on my previous Calfee with 145 rear hub. Since changing to 135 on our new frame it is only a problem on the smallest (11). There is really no need to ride the smallest chairing and 2-3 smallest cogs combinations. About the only time I do that is when I have a brain fart and forget I am in the small chain ring and try to get moving fast with a group or something. If you can give us what you are using for cranks someone on here will have info on whether you can improve the chainlink. BTW we had 1000's of happy Di2 miles on a 145 mm rear hub and frame so you will have a great bike. Also I would rather be able to totally cross chain in the big ring if there is a compromise to be made.