Question about a threaded headset
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Kansas City, MO
Question about a threaded headset
So, I recently, out of boredom, decided to upgrade my headset from a beaten up Shimano 600 to a sparkly NOS Dura Ace that I got for cheap on eBay. Anyway, I didn't think there'd be any significant difference in stack height, but there is. I think the Dura Ace is about 4 or 5 more mm than the 600. I know that the locking ring isn't really necessary, so I'm not worried about that, but what I am worried about, is the fact that there's maybe 2-3mm of thread for the headset, I can turn the top nut maybe 2.5 times. If I put Loc-Tite on there, will that be enough, or should I just give up the ghost and put the 600 back on?
Thanks for all your help!
Thanks for all your help!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Your old 600 may have been the loose ball (or caged ball) design and the newer Dura Ace a cartridge bearing type. The loose ball Shimano headsets had a much lower stack height than their cartridge bearing models.
I installed a Shimano 600 (HP-6400) loose ball headset with a stack height of 33mm in a '92 Trek 1420 to replace the OEM Tange headset and it fit fine. When it wore out 15,000 miles later I tried to replace it with a newer Ultegra cartridge bearing headset (HP-6500) but the stack height (37.6 mm) was enough taller that it wouldn't work.
I installed a Shimano 600 (HP-6400) loose ball headset with a stack height of 33mm in a '92 Trek 1420 to replace the OEM Tange headset and it fit fine. When it wore out 15,000 miles later I tried to replace it with a newer Ultegra cartridge bearing headset (HP-6500) but the stack height (37.6 mm) was enough taller that it wouldn't work.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I don't like Loctite on headsets, but in dicey situations like yours where I lack good thread engagement, I use "vibra-tite" on the threads, which provides enough traction that I don't have to torque the locknut as tight as I would otherwise.
The advantage of vibra-tite or similar product over Loctite is that it allows readjustment if necessary without taking things apart to freshen the adhesive.
The advantage of vibra-tite or similar product over Loctite is that it allows readjustment if necessary without taking things apart to freshen the adhesive.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
I just built a bike and had the same "problem". I counted the lock nut rotations and I was at 2.25 spinning by hand. When I took my wrench to it, it "felt" just fine. I was able to get a good solid snugging against the top race. So far, so good.
I try to remind myself that the upper nut is not holding the bike together, it's just holding a light bearing adjustment in place.
I try to remind myself that the upper nut is not holding the bike together, it's just holding a light bearing adjustment in place.
#6
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
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