Pedal Cleat Certerline Data
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Pedal Cleat Certerline Data
I have several pairs of shoes that present an odd situation:
The left shoe cleat placement is fine, but the right cleat cannot be positioned in a manner that
provides any significant clearance between the shoe and the crank arm in the area of the ball of my foot.
Even with the cleat all the way inward and foot not pronated, there is virtually no clearance, and this evolves into an outright rub as time passes.
This situation exists with Look pedals and delta cleats.
However, when I switch to Wellgo pedals (or, Nashbar pedals) i realize about 1/4" of clearance rather than a rub!
The Wellgo pedals are set out from the crankarm by about that distance.
I know I can use extenders, but I only need that 1/4", so Wellgo pedals work out.
I seem to have difficulty finding comfortable shoes, so this solution puts a smile on my face.
Is this a specification that is published anywhere?
I have yet to find it.
Just curious, as always.
The left shoe cleat placement is fine, but the right cleat cannot be positioned in a manner that
provides any significant clearance between the shoe and the crank arm in the area of the ball of my foot.
Even with the cleat all the way inward and foot not pronated, there is virtually no clearance, and this evolves into an outright rub as time passes.
This situation exists with Look pedals and delta cleats.
However, when I switch to Wellgo pedals (or, Nashbar pedals) i realize about 1/4" of clearance rather than a rub!
The Wellgo pedals are set out from the crankarm by about that distance.
I know I can use extenders, but I only need that 1/4", so Wellgo pedals work out.
I seem to have difficulty finding comfortable shoes, so this solution puts a smile on my face.
Is this a specification that is published anywhere?
I have yet to find it.
Just curious, as always.
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It is very easy to place the soles back to back and visually compare the cleat mounting bolt holes placements. Have you done this yet? Is it very possible that a pair of shoes got mismade. It is very unlikely that a few pairs did. The common denominator is you and the cleats. One or the other isn't "right".
There are no published dimension charts that I know of although a brand might have buried somewhere in their tech docs some info, good luck finding any. Since this info is easily discovered with a rule/caliper in hand...
have you tried to reverse the cleats from side to side? Have you made sure that the rectangular bolt "washers" are freely able to be slid all the way over within the cleats housings? Are your feet/ankles symmetrical?
A good suggestion for future dealings with cleat replacements is to scribe around the cleat once it's proper position is found so a replacement can simply be placed within the outline again. Andy.
There are no published dimension charts that I know of although a brand might have buried somewhere in their tech docs some info, good luck finding any. Since this info is easily discovered with a rule/caliper in hand...
have you tried to reverse the cleats from side to side? Have you made sure that the rectangular bolt "washers" are freely able to be slid all the way over within the cleats housings? Are your feet/ankles symmetrical?
A good suggestion for future dealings with cleat replacements is to scribe around the cleat once it's proper position is found so a replacement can simply be placed within the outline again. Andy.
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If you can get your hands on the pedals before buying, you could easily measure the distance from the face of the crank to the center of the cleat. You should notice a difference of about a quarter of an inch on the two pedals that you have.
I am pretty sure that you can rule out Speedplays, who advertise the lowest Q Factor available.
I use Time ATACs, and I have plenty of clearance even with my Winter boots (Lake MXZ303s in the wide version).
I am pretty sure that you can rule out Speedplays, who advertise the lowest Q Factor available.
I use Time ATACs, and I have plenty of clearance even with my Winter boots (Lake MXZ303s in the wide version).
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If you can get your hands on the pedals before buying, you could easily measure the distance from the face of the crank to the center of the cleat. You should notice a difference of about a quarter of an inch on the two pedals that you have.
I am pretty sure that you can rule out Speedplays, who advertise the lowest Q Factor available.
I use Time ATACs, and I have plenty of clearance even with my Winter boots (Lake MXZ303s in the wide version).
I am pretty sure that you can rule out Speedplays, who advertise the lowest Q Factor available.
I use Time ATACs, and I have plenty of clearance even with my Winter boots (Lake MXZ303s in the wide version).
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Heh, I knew I'd seen questions about this before... ...the older one was @Ronno6, 2+ years ago. I guess you are still looking! 
The newer one has a lot more replies that might be of interest.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...e-no-spec.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-distance.html

The newer one has a lot more replies that might be of interest.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...e-no-spec.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-distance.html
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Are you saying that a right and a left pedal will/could have a different amount of spindle shoulder to cleat clasp center dimensions? I suppose so but the only way that I know this would happen on a pair (not two pedals that were paired by other then the factory) is if one pedal's spindle/bearings have moved within the pedal body. Which, now that I think about it, does happen rarely. Andy
He would see a 1/4" difference between the Look Pedals and the Wellgo pedals based on the information in the OP. Seeing this difference btween a set of pedals that work vs a pair that don't would provide confirmation of an accurate measurement methodology.
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Heh, I knew I'd seen questions about this before... ...the older one was @Ronno6, 2+ years ago. I guess you are still looking! 
The newer one has a lot more replies that might be of interest.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...e-no-spec.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-distance.html

The newer one has a lot more replies that might be of interest.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...e-no-spec.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-distance.html
This issue rears its head whenever I try to replace the Forte CR300's that I have worn for years.
They are flat out the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn, and I have re-glued the soles several times. But, they are getting close to just wearing out.
The shoes in question are earlier Forte CR200's and CR210's. I see them come up for sale occasionally, but never the 300's in my size 48. I'd buy 'em if I saw 'em.
I can clearly remember what I did 40 years ago, but am unable to remember whom I related it to....yesterday.
2 years ago falls into a fuzzy area.............
Last edited by Ronno6; 03-03-16 at 09:33 AM.
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I work in IT and participate in forums for that. I've lost count of the number of times I've answered my question with my own post from X years previous...
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Upon looking at the shoe uppers, rather than the soles or cleats, it appears that these particular shoes tend to stretch a bit in that area, probably as a result of my right foot being wider than my left?
The left upper visibly migrates out past the edge of the sole moreso than the right.
At any rate, the CR200's stretched, while the CR300's did not. Hmm........
But, as long as I have the need, the Nashbar Ventoux (rebranded Wellgo pedals?) will do the trick.
The left upper visibly migrates out past the edge of the sole moreso than the right.
At any rate, the CR200's stretched, while the CR300's did not. Hmm........
But, as long as I have the need, the Nashbar Ventoux (rebranded Wellgo pedals?) will do the trick.