Is this the sound of a bad BB?
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 5
Is this the sound of a bad BB?
This is a new to me Madone 5.9. I've ridden it all summer and I've started to pick up this crunching sound. The guy told me he replaced the BB last summer, so I guess I thought/hoped it was fine.
You can hear it when my right foot comes right over top dead center
I'd love to hear your thoughts, though it looks like the world of aftermarket BB90's is in my future.
You can hear it when my right foot comes right over top dead center
I'd love to hear your thoughts, though it looks like the world of aftermarket BB90's is in my future.
#2
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 311
Likes: 26
From: Hogansville GA
Bikes: Too damn many to list, seriously.
You have my sympathy trying to track down a creak. Most people immediately point to the bottom bracket and the majority of the time it is not. Do some searches on here for creaks and there are lots of checklists of stuff you should try before changing the bottom bracket. I doubt that it needs to be replaced after just one year. Don't be surprised if it's something entirely different and it could be coming from somewhere you would never suspect.
#3
Professional amateur
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 688
Likes: 136
From: Ga.
Bikes: Does a Big Wheel count ?
I'd say that's a hella lot more than your typical, tiny, mystery-creak ! Dieselgoat makes a good point about the BB being on everyone's short list, then not being the actual problem, but that does sound like it's in the BB, or the crank.
But, it also had kind of a hollow, woody sound that made me suspect a crack in the carbon frame somewhere. You check that closely already?
How does it sound when you spin the cranks, with no one on the bike? How old is the bike ? (I'm wondering how old it was when the original owner replaced the BB.)
But, it also had kind of a hollow, woody sound that made me suspect a crack in the carbon frame somewhere. You check that closely already?
How does it sound when you spin the cranks, with no one on the bike? How old is the bike ? (I'm wondering how old it was when the original owner replaced the BB.)
#4
The dropped

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 1,055
From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Listen inside the frame
I'm pretty sure it's on Sheldon Brown's website as a tip for diagnosing creaks and BB problems. Put your bike in a stand so you can turn the cranks; put your ear on the 'horn' of your saddle; turn the cranks and listen. The bike frame will amplify sounds in the BB shell and transmit them directly to your ear. If the sound is a crunchy rumble, it's likely your bearings, if it's smoother steel on steel sound, your BB is probably fine, and it's time to look elsewhere.
I can't do this, but you can. Isolate the components of the drivetrain (and maybe marvel at the ingenuity) and test them one by one. Narrow it all down and you'll get your noise, then you can find a solution.
Happy hunting!
I can't do this, but you can. Isolate the components of the drivetrain (and maybe marvel at the ingenuity) and test them one by one. Narrow it all down and you'll get your noise, then you can find a solution.
Happy hunting!
#5
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 28
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Last time I had what I was convinced was a BB creak, it turned out that I re-installed the wrong size spacer between the rear hub and cassette after servicing. There was just enough play to transmit to the cranks and through the frame.
#6
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 5
I'd say that's a hella lot more than your typical, tiny, mystery-creak ! Dieselgoat makes a good point about the BB being on everyone's short list, then not being the actual problem, but that does sound like it's in the BB, or the crank.
But, it also had kind of a hollow, woody sound that made me suspect a crack in the carbon frame somewhere. You check that closely already?
How does it sound when you spin the cranks, with no one on the bike? How old is the bike ? (I'm wondering how old it was when the original owner replaced the BB.)
But, it also had kind of a hollow, woody sound that made me suspect a crack in the carbon frame somewhere. You check that closely already?
How does it sound when you spin the cranks, with no one on the bike? How old is the bike ? (I'm wondering how old it was when the original owner replaced the BB.)
Spinning cranks with the bike unloaded, it will still mostly make the noise, but it's not as harsh. And sometimes (but with no consistency) I can hop on the bike and it will be quiet for the first mile or so. And then most other times I'll get on and it's immediately present. But I'm almost to the point now where it's like 9/10 noisy.
Age? Great question. I don't think I ever got a year from the guy. But the 5.9's appear to have the capability to be at least 9 years old now. Unsatisfactory answer, I apologize.
And when did he replace the BB. You know, that's a good question. He had only said that he had done it recently. But I know I think things are "recent," but when I really think about it it'll be something where I only had one kid at the time which means it was least five years ago. Getting old sucks.

I'm pretty sure it's on Sheldon Brown's website as a tip for diagnosing creaks and BB problems. Put your bike in a stand so you can turn the cranks; put your ear on the 'horn' of your saddle; turn the cranks and listen. The bike frame will amplify sounds in the BB shell and transmit them directly to your ear. If the sound is a crunchy rumble, it's likely your bearings, if it's smoother steel on steel sound, your BB is probably fine, and it's time to look elsewhere.
I can't do this, but you can. Isolate the components of the drivetrain (and maybe marvel at the ingenuity) and test them one by one. Narrow it all down and you'll get your noise, then you can find a solution.
Happy hunting!
I can't do this, but you can. Isolate the components of the drivetrain (and maybe marvel at the ingenuity) and test them one by one. Narrow it all down and you'll get your noise, then you can find a solution.
Happy hunting!
#7
Professional amateur
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 688
Likes: 136
From: Ga.
Bikes: Does a Big Wheel count ?
I got curious, and just rummaged through the Trek archives, and the closest color match I could find was from 2011.......
https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...done59/details
(though I see from your video, the graphics on your fork are grey, but here they're blue. But, the other graphics looked right, and no other 5.9's I saw had that Lake Placid blue color.)
Anyway, I was wondering if the first BB replacement may have been real early, and indicative of a problem with them, but it looks like he got several years out of it.
I would pull the BB, and see how it spins and feels, in-hand. If you're getting grinding while the bike is unloaded, then if it's the BB, you should feel it when it's in-hand. Assuming you have the tools, that's a cheap and easy test, that you're probably gonna have to do anyway.
https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...done59/details
(though I see from your video, the graphics on your fork are grey, but here they're blue. But, the other graphics looked right, and no other 5.9's I saw had that Lake Placid blue color.)
Anyway, I was wondering if the first BB replacement may have been real early, and indicative of a problem with them, but it looks like he got several years out of it.
I would pull the BB, and see how it spins and feels, in-hand. If you're getting grinding while the bike is unloaded, then if it's the BB, you should feel it when it's in-hand. Assuming you have the tools, that's a cheap and easy test, that you're probably gonna have to do anyway.
Last edited by Brocephus; 08-09-19 at 06:51 AM.
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 5
Finally got some time today.
This is a chainless free wheel. Honestly, I don't know the difference between good and bad, but this doesn't sound terrible.
Then there's this, which I suspect is slightly less good. I'm pushing in/out in parallel with the BB. If you look closely when I move the view overhead you can see the pedal shifting a little.
This is a chainless free wheel. Honestly, I don't know the difference between good and bad, but this doesn't sound terrible.
Then there's this, which I suspect is slightly less good. I'm pushing in/out in parallel with the BB. If you look closely when I move the view overhead you can see the pedal shifting a little.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 525
From: Dublin, Ireland
Bikes: Bianchi Ti Megatube; Colnago Competition; Planet-X EC-130E; Klein Pulse; Amp Research B4; Litespeed Catalyst; Trek Y11
Am I the only one that views a BB as a "consumable"?
Replace it, now - simple. Eliminate it as a problem.
If the noise persists, it's something else; but you've created "ground zero" for your BB (mark it down in your "consumable" diary).
My experience with "it's been done recently" means anywhere from 2 to >5yrs ago. People's perceptions can be all over the shop.
Replace it, now - simple. Eliminate it as a problem.
If the noise persists, it's something else; but you've created "ground zero" for your BB (mark it down in your "consumable" diary).
My experience with "it's been done recently" means anywhere from 2 to >5yrs ago. People's perceptions can be all over the shop.
#10
climber has-been




Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,169
Likes: 6,061
From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: Scott Addict RC Pro & R1, Felt Z1
That clicking when you move the left crank — sure sounds like a loose connection to the spindle.
Remove the left crank, clean and inspect the spindle-to-crank interface, reinstall and torque the binding bolts to spec.
If you're lucky, that's all it is.
Remove the left crank, clean and inspect the spindle-to-crank interface, reinstall and torque the binding bolts to spec.
If you're lucky, that's all it is.






