ta111

Hi Guys!

I've recently acquired a Radon JEALOUS HYBRID 8.0 625 E-MTB. It's been a blast riding it around, but I've encountered an issue that's been bugging me.

The problem lies with the steering. I've noticed that I can't turn the front wheel beyond a certain point - it seems limited to about 100 degrees of rotation. I reached out to the manufacturer about this concern, and they assured me that it's completely normal. According to them, this design is intentional to protect the frame in case of accidents. However, I'm not entirely convinced.

Firstly, there have been instances where I've needed a wider turning radius, especially when navigating tight corners or tricky terrain. Secondly, I've observed that the wheel doesn't turn the same degree in both directions - it can turn more to the left than to the right. This inconsistency makes me wonder if something might be off with the bike.

Have any of you experienced similar issues with your bikes in the past? Is it possible that this limitation on steering is indeed normal for certain models? And if I'm not satisfied with it, is there a way to unlock or adjust this feature?

I'd appreciate any insights or advice you can offer on this matter. Thanks in advance for your help!

70sSanO

Cable/housing length.

John

andrewclaus

A previous owner may have put longer bars on and didn't replace the shifter cables. Solutions are to replace the cables or shorten the bars.

LesterOfPuppets

I can't imagine going any faster than 2 mph with the bars at that angle, so unlikely to affect normal riding requirements.

My main concern would be the limiter on left hand turns appears to be the controller cable, the failure of which could get a little expensive I think. You could get a little more slack in the controller cable by pulling the left grip off and the left brake lever, then loosening the controller clamp screw and rotating the controller forward one complete turn.

You could also see if there's any slack in it by gently pulling it out of the frame some. Same for the rear shifter cable and rear brake hose, those might be easier to try getting slack out of the frame run by removing that cable management coil first.

Iride01 

If the manufacturer told you that it's that way by their design why won't you believe them? I don't ride anything but road bikes. But I have trouble imagining how slow you'd have to be going to be able to turn the bars as far as you show in the picture without being a wreck already in progress. Certainly that must be less than 2 mph. But as I said, I don't do off road so I admit I might be wrong.

ta111

Thank you, guys, for your comments! Unfortunately, it's not a cable issue. I bought the bike brand new, not used, and according to the manufacturer's information, the limited steering is intentional to protect the frame in case of accidents.

I'd like to ask if any of you have experienced a similar problem with any type of bike before. Is it possible that it's supposed to be this way? And if I'm not satisfied with it, how can I unlock this wheel lock function?

Your insights would be greatly appreciated!

ta111

"Secondly, I've observed that the wheel doesn't turn the same degree in both directions - it can turn more to the left than to the right. This inconsistency makes me wonder if something might be off with the bike."

Iride01 

If it's a brand new bike, then why not take it back to the place you bought it from and ask them if there is indeed something wrong. If you bought it online, then call the vendor. If you bought it directly from the manufacturer, then you pretty much are going to have to accept what they say till you can prove otherwise.

You do have a bike that I'll likely never see in my area. Possibly the same for many of us here.

grumpus

There's history for steering stops on bikes, but this was usually just an attachment or protrusion on the fork crown that hit a stop on the frame. Newer utility bikes or cruisers often have a spring connecting the fork to the frame, holding the fork straight. There's nothing that's obvious externally on your bike, so I'd drop the fork to see what's inside - if it is indeed a design feature I'd expect to see something like a protrusion on the fork steerer tube and matching piece on the inside of the frame head tube. If this is the case you'd need to remove or modify one of those features.

ta111

"I reached out to the manufacturer about this concern, and they assured me that it's completely normal. According to them, this design is intentional to protect the frame in case of accidents."

ta111

Thank you for your comments!

Iride01 

I read that the first time already. But since you seem to not believe them. And you mentioned that it doesn't turn as far in one direction as the other which suggested you think something else is going on. So that's why I mentioned doing the other things to try and satisfy whether it's right or not.

Still, do you really turn the bars that much while you are riding it at any speed? If you are stopped when you want to turn that much then just lift the front wheel off the ground.

Otherwise, it is appearing you don't like your bike for the way it currently works. Maybe consider returning it and take whatever hit that is to your wallet and get the bike that will satisfy you. People tend not to ride things that they don't like.

bboy314

According to the specs, this bike has an Acros Block Lock headset, which has the steering limiter built into the headset itself. Trek has a similar system called Knock Block. The Acros can probably be centered by removing, aligning and reinstalling the headset upper from the frame. It also does look from your picture like the steering MIGHT be further restricted by cables/brake lines/control wire, so make sure none of those are being pulled too taught by the handlebar turning.

LesterOfPuppets

Whew, thats a good thing. Turning the wheel that sharply is really only done in VERY low speed unnatural turns anyways. You definitely don't want to do anything to remove the stops. You fork crown striking the frame or cables and hoses getting yanked are all bad things to be avoided.

In third pic it looks like the fork can't hit the frame so the steering limiter is just there to keep the hoses and cables from getting pulled out.

I've had a couple of customers come in with their bars turned 360 degrees.

One saying they got to their cabin, pulled the bike out of the pickup bed and the brakes were locked up so they couldn't ride. They had cable brakes so relatively easy fix. If it was hydraulic brakes the bill would've been a little higher.

LesterOfPuppets

Also on an ebike with crank sensors, if you've got the bike turned on and try to do a very sharp low speed turn, accidentally turn the pedals and pass a crank sensor and the motor engages it could put you on the ground, even with your limiting headset.

70sSanO

This is great info!

From what I have read you should get 135* of rotation. Acros also offers 164* of rotation. I can’t find a 100* option.

I would guess you have the 135* version. If you are not getting 135* of rotation then the cables/wires/housing might be restricting the rotation and the manufacturer should fix it.

Depending on the response, you may have to get the fix done at your cost. You might be able to go to the 164* if you have the clearance.

Either way, it should be centered. Tab rotation can occur in a crash depending on the severity of the crash.

John

ta111

Thank you for your very valuable comment!

What is your opinion: is it a good idea to eliminate the steering lock on the bike, or would it be better to simply change the lock to one that allows the wheel to turn in a wider angle?

Additionally, I'd like to ask whether there is an easy way to modify this function without purchasing factory parts, as they are quite expensive. Thanks again!

ta111

Thank you for your comment!

I'D like to ask you, too: is it a good idea to eliminate the steering lock on the bike, or would it be better to simply change the lock to one that allows the wheel to turn in a wider angle?

Additionally, I'd like to ask whether there is an easy way to modify this function without purchasing factory parts, as they are quite expensive. Thanks again!

bboy314

I would keep the steering lock. As others have said, it will prevent the handlebar from turning enough to damage brake lines, wires, or your frame. It shouldn’t have any affect when riding as the handlebar never needs to turn than far.

If you did want to get rid of it, you’d need to replace your headset, or at least the upper headset parts. There is no way to adjust the range of motion, but if it’s uncentered, limiting one direction more than the other, you may be able to remove, straighten and reinstall it. Either way you’ll probably need the help and proper tools of a bike shop.

70sSanO

Your only real issue is if the bars do not rotate 135* and is being stopped by the electronic cable and rear brake housing and shifter cable. I'm guessing the headset stop is a positive stop and there is still some play in the housing/cable/wires.

If the bars are being stopped by the housing/cable/wires, there is absolutely no play and the tension increases with rotation, then in the event of a crash the force could be an issue; potentially ripping them out of their mount. Shift cable should just shift gears unless against limit screw. I imagine the wires are plugged, but maybe not.

John

veganbikes

I have a Acros Block Lock Headset on my R+M Supercharger2 and have no interest in getting rid of it. I have not had issues with the Block Lock functionality at all. It is quite nice and if I am having to turn my bars that much more, I am in trouble (or walking my bike and is not really enough of an issue). I don't believe they do different versions or an adjustment to it. However that would be an excellent question for Acros.

As others have suggested I would highly recommend making sure your cables and housing have enough space to move and aren't causing the binding.