So, I just completed my first wheel build. Ive got a 36h Surly "new" hub wheelsmith 2.0 spokes, Sun Rhynolite rim. Now, Ive got the wheel built and its just about perfect. Laterally the true is great, but it is out of round just a smidge (maybe 1mm) My question is, is this good enough? I have been messing with it, and messing with it and I just cannot get it "perfect".
Thanks guys

is it at the valve stem hole, or directly across at the seam?

1mm out of round isn't enough to be noticed unless you're riding with 23mm or smaller road tires. And I'm assuming that's not the case, since the rim is a Rhyno lite.
Also, as Soil Sampler notes, sometimes even a well-built wheel will have slight hops in the rim at the rim seam or by the valve hole - plenty of rims have that problem (which really isn't much of a problem).

During the early phase of tensioning I try to first concentrate on radial true, then wheel dish (centered rim) and even tensioning, leaving the lateral true details for last, that's the easy part. Of course there all of these work together and need to be considered throughout, but it's best to work on the more difficult parts first.

Al

If your tension is pretty even, I'd leave it alone from there.

If your tension is uneven, that may be a clue as to why it's out of round. Often, you can back off tension +/- 90 degrees from the high spot, and increase tension at the high spot, and that will fix you up. Try to "blend" these tension changes, so the center spoke of the adjustment zone gets the most turns, then move out and reduce the turn amount for each spoke out from the center of the zone.

the tension is good, and everything else is good except for the 1mm "hump" near the seam.
If thats normal, then Im gonna mount up a tire and ride the crap out of it.

Take it for a hard spin around the block, then toss it back onto the truing stand.

Yeah, I'd just stress relieve it and head out.

1 mm is pretty good for a first build.

Good show!

I never worry about anything less that 1mm radial or 0.5mm lateral runout. That's within the tolerance of the rim itself, really, and getting adequate, even tension is more important to the rim's longevity than something like that.

+1 for go ride it if everything seems tensioned and set proper. I have a rear wheel with a hop that's noticable, but everything else on the build is good, and I've put 400+ Miles on it. Every time I get paranoid and toss it on the truing stand it's still as good as the day it was built. Even on a brand new rim you can't necessarily expect no hop if your tension is perfect.

*Ponders if anyone's ever done Radius measurements at multiple points on various brands of rims to check quality.*

+1
The Park Tool website says that 1/32" ( or .5 mm) in bounce and 1/16" (or 1 mm) in wobble is adequate. Actually, 1/16 is almost 1.6 mm. The Bontrger Racelite manual says 0.4 mm in wobble and bounce, but that's a premium wheel.
I can't true a wheel better than 1 mm without the use of a dial indicator.

em

Learn to build your own or be extremely cautious in selecting a wheel builder.
I will avoid any/all future transaction/interaction with www.Superspokes.com
I ordered a Ultegra-Velocity Fusion-DT Swiss wheelset in early December. I was told that it would "take a couple of days to get the Ultegra hubs so I would not receive my new wheels in time for Christmas" but I was assured delivery during the week after Christmas. It has been over a month since my credit card was charged and still no wheels and no completion/ship date. They will not/do not return phone calls. They will NOT provide urgently requested build status and completionship dates via email.
I do not expect to receive the new wheels at all.
I normally build my own wheels (with great satisfaction/results) but I was/am recovering from triple bypass surgery and multiple post (bypass) surgery infection surgeries.
Please provide opinions and suggestion for selecting a wheel builder.

I've used Joe Young and have never had an issue and the quality of his work is outstanding.

https://www.youngwheels.com/