Before each ride I squirt some pro-lube on my chain, spin it a few times, and then wipe off the excess. Occasionally I use a citrus degreaser to clean the chain. Now, I've heard you shouldn't degrease your chain because it will actually break down the new lube you put on it. That makes sense to me but cleaning your chain seems to make more sense. Also, Pro-lube claims that it's lubricant "pushes out" grit and grime while lubing. Is that even possible?

What are your thoughts on lubing? degreasing? Thanks!

-Dave

I use a wet lube and wipe the chain down with a rag that has had some Clean Streak sprayed on it before each lube. I also wipe off the extra lube with a dry rag after lubing. My chains stay clean and last a long time.
I don't like to degrease chains, because I believe it washes the lube out of the inside where you need it most, but do it for customers if they want me to.

This is my procedure for mountain biking in dry, hardpacked, Southern CA conditions:

A major degreasing for me is to remove the chain, soak/clean the chain with a citrus cleaner or Simple Green, rinse in a bucket of warm water, and allowed to dry in the sun. I may do this once every three months.

I use Pro-Link "dry" chain lube and apply a drop to each rivet. Although this may take a little more time, it does not waste lubricant. After every other ride (~40 miles), I'll use a stiff bristle brush to knock off the dust/dirt and reapply Pro-Link. I've also tried some wax based lubes (Pedro's Dry Ice and White Lightning), but didn't like them.

I brush the chain thoroughly with brush soaked in ethyl alcohol, lube with White Lightning (no opinion on whether it's good or not), and wipe off excess. I also apply a drop to each rivet.

Good information in response. In addition I use WD-40 applied to a rag to help clean the dirt off the chain if I am in particularly dusty conditions. I also use WD to displace water after a ride in the rain. It isn't a good lubricant but it is a wonderful cleaner if used right. Breaking down a chain to put into a degreaser to remove all the grease with any embedded dirt is a good idea as well. I will use White Lightning, Prolink, or plain old Triflow depending on the conditions where I am riding at the time. It seems any care for your chain will prolong the life of the chain and reduce the wear on the drive train parts.

I clean the drivetrain with an old rag soaked in Simple Green followed by a substantial amount of lubricant and it seems to work well with no apparent breakdown.

Newbie question: if you remove the chain to clean, by say putting it into a coke bottle, why not have a second bottle with just oil in it? If you're worried about the oil inside the rollers being stripped away by the degreaser, wouldn't a good soak in oil help replace it? After some time, take out, wipe down, and seal up the bottle of oil for next time.

This subject comes up regularly. Everyone has their own system, nobody can prove their method is better than anyone else's, and different methods may be better for different conditions.

After reading a bunch of these threads, I've settled on a "less is more" approach that emphasizes keeping the chain dry and clean. For lube I use Prolink Gold, but only every few hundred miles, not every ride. I apply it and wipe down after riding such that the chain is dry before going out the next day. And I wipe the chain down after every ride (or maybe every other ride) with a dry rag to remove any dirt I've picked up along with any lube that has oozed out. Dry and clean.

I started this with a new chain and clean drivetrain, and after 700 miles, mostly on packed-limestone rail trails, it's sparkling clean. I don't think I'll ever need to degrease, because the chain isn't greasy and doesn't pick up much dirt. But if I do, it will be with a solvent that doesn't leave a residue such as mineral spirits. Simple Green seems to be popular for degreasing, but it will never touch my chain.

Put chain in a wide mouth plastic container with a mix of 50/50 mineral spirits and 30w oil. Put cap on container and shake like you were mixing a cocktail. Let soak. Agitate again and remove. Hang dry awhile. Wipe off excess with clean rag. Blow with compressed air (if you have it). This will remove any minute particles still sticking to the chain. Chain will appear squeaky clean and you cannot blow off all the oil, especially under the rollers. You will not believe the crud this mixture will remove while totally lubing your chain.

Interesting idea. Do you use any other lube? How often do you do the cocktail thing?

I do my bikes about every 500 miles. The compressed air out of a nozzle will really blast all the solid material out leaving a film of oil. I just did my Raleigh 3 speed this AM and i didn't get my hands dirty putting the chain back on. These are pavement only bikes and are used for exercise and recreation. No other lube needed

How long do your chains last? Do you measure them?

I never degrease my chain any more. After every ride, I

1. Grab the chain with a rag, rotate the pedals backwards to clean, apply about 2 tbsp oil, grab chain with rag again and clean off excess.

We can get into one of those "how many angels can dance on the head of a pin" discussions about what is better for a chain, to remove the factory lube, to clean with solvent because that removes abrasives, to never use solvent because solvent pentrates into the inner workings of the chain and removes precious lubricant, leading to premature wear.

All I know is that with my method, the bike shifts absolutely flawlessly and the drivetrain is always visually clean, not microscope OCP clean, but then I like to ride my bike, not just prop it up against garage doors and photograph it.

My method takes less than 1 minute out of my life.

Agree that this is a topic that is over-analyzed, overly marketed, and over-discussed.

But ... that said ... I've reached a couple of conclusions about what works for me, and a theory about which I have no idea whatsoever ... but it's a theory:

I use the "WD-40 and straw with rag backing it" method to clean. Then I use a toothbrush to apply 50/50 mineral spirits/Mobil 1. I do this AFTER the ride so the spirits can evaporate. I probably do it about every 300 miles, but am sure that's overkill.

My theory is that you should either:

- clean off the bike (soaking, brushing, rinsing, etc.) AND LUBE off the bike (again, soaking), OR

- clean ON the bike (spray) and lube ON the bike (spray)

The only basis for this theory is that a thorough cleaning IS just that: thorough. It should remove all traces of grease, lube, and grit. But will a TOTALLY clean chain get sprayed-on lube where it needs to be??

Maybe, but I dunno.

I always thought that these were intriguing articles, incidentally:

1) https://www.bhpc.org.uk/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf

2) https://www.usace.army.mil/publicatio...2-1424/toc.htm

Yes, there will be a quiz

it's just a chain. i wouldn't analyze it too much.

that's what i am talking about.

Wow! thanks for all of the great advice. I had no idea this subject had been brought up already, as I am a newbie to this board. thanks again!

Dude, people have come to vitual blows over degreasing.

Post about how great 3 in one oil or WD40 is for lubing your chain if you really want to see the sparks fly.

I am reluctant to reveal my secret...but I just can't seem to help myself:

When I get a new chain I emerse it in solvent for 7 days or until the first full moon. I then remove it and let it drip dry over a smoldering cherrywood fire for another 7 days. I then weigh it on my digital gram scale and have the weight added to the list of stuff tattooed on my rump.

I then weigh out 1.75ml or a wax based lubricant (sorry, I won't reveal brands here as I have to keep something to myself) and apply 1 drop between the INNER SIDE of the INNER PLATE and roller. (Yes chains are directional!) I then measure out 2.66ml of a wet lube and repeat the same process between the INNER SIDE of the OUTER PLATE and roller.

I weigh the chain again and head off to the tattoo parlour.

After allowing the chain to "brew" for 3 days, I wipe down any excess lube that may have leaked out using a hand woven hemp rag that has been soaked in organic, citrus based degreasers and been tied to the south facing side of a yew tree during the Gibus moon.

I then IMMEDIATELY apply 1 drop of a dry lube to EVERY SECOND LINK ON BOTH SIDES from the .95ml of lube I had previously measured out. I fold the chain carefully so that each dry link comes in contact with the neighbouring wet link, place the folded chain in a brown paper bag (one with no printing on it as the ink may contaminate the chain while it is still vulnerable) and swing it over my head while dancing circles in my back yard and clucking like a chicken.

This I do for 15 minutes on the first available Saturday morning between the hours of 4:30 am and 6:00am.

I then wrap the chain in fresh tinfoil (being VERY careful not to crinkle the foil) and place the chain in a preheated over at 250 for 25 minutes. I remove it and allow it to cool.

The chain is now ready to use.

Some may scoff at my "untraditional methods" but I offer this as testimonial to my methods.

I used to ride, every Saturday and Sunday with my local club. Of course, over the duration of the ride advise would be passed around regarding the best methods of training or bike maintenance and such. Eventually, after I had revealed a few of my "methods" these seasoned riders came to hold me in such high esteem that they now trust me, and only me, to lube their chains. In fact, I have a pile of chains that these guys are all waiting for me to prepare.

The downside is I don't really have much time to ride anymore so I'm not really sure when I can get these chains back to them. But I know that when I do, they will shower me with the appreciation and adulation that I deserve.

Take that Mr Sheldon "know it all!" Brown

Dude, you slay me. I'm guessing you're a Taipei Personality?

Just one question, though ... and I NEED to know:

What's on the inside ... directly against the chain: the SHINY side or the DULL side of the tin foil??

TIA,

Neil

Very astute. I actually double wrap the chain placing shiny sides out (so both dull sides are facing each other) This is where the additional adhesion comes from.

Dude, I just tried this and it cut .00030 seconds off my 40 mile time trial! You rock!

I need to remember to bring this subject up every 6 months!

bob...thanks for providing my first laugh of the day.

I use your method, but after I remove the tinfoil, I make a hat out of it and wear it because, you know, there are space aliens and CIA operatives that are beeming messages at me, trying to confuse me on what chain lubing procedure to use!

About once every 3 rides (150 miles):

Degrease chain, RD rollers, cogs & chainrings with citrus cleaner.

Hose off degreaser.

Dry chain & RD with shop rag.

Leave in sun for 10-15 minutes.

Apply wet lube, little itty bit, link by link.

Turn cranks through each cog and chainring.

Wipe off excess wet lub with shop rag.

Drivetrain stays pretty as a picture. And I've been told I have the quietest drivetrain (10 spd Ultegra) in my bike club.