Rear Derailleur Issue
#1
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Muscle bike design spec
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From: Sterling VA
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Rear Derailleur Issue
I just picked up a Lotus 3000R. It wasn't shifting well and I identified the issue. The adjustment screw that keeps the pulleys from pulling up into the freewheel does not fit against the frame nub (see pictures). It looks like the derailleur seems to be in fair shape but I cannot see how the standoff screw could possibly match. I also believe the RD is original equipment.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to missing parts or other installation issues that would fix the issue? I suspect a different RD is in order (though I only have one non-index friendly one on hand). These thumbnails expand to larger pics.


Does anyone have any suggestions as to missing parts or other installation issues that would fix the issue? I suspect a different RD is in order (though I only have one non-index friendly one on hand). These thumbnails expand to larger pics.


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#2
Senior Member
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Not sure but it looks like the spring behind the main fixing bolt is not working correctly, broken or needs to be reset. Pull the derailleur off the frame and check out the spring. When you push the upper half of the derailleur forward you should be pushing against chain tension. Take a look at some derailleurs that are working correctly.
Al
Al
#3
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From: Annapolis MD
Bikes: Velo Orange, '91 Wicked Fat Chance, '99 Sycip Hardtail, '02 Sycip Pave custom, Benotto fixed, a playafied Bridgestone MB-3 and a bunch of hacks, beaters, townies, and 'projects'.
Suntour derailleurs may utilize the B-tension screw differently than shimano derailleurs. But it looks like the der is not threaded into the hanger all the way, or there may be some 'key' that is part of the der that is not properly resting on the B-tension stop on the dropout.
#4
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Muscle bike design spec
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From: Sterling VA
Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
The derailleur would not fit differently or tigher to the frame. I replaced it with an earlier Suntour RD that I had on hand - that doesn't have an adjustment for the cable (i.e. friction only type). [does anyone know of a inline adjustment that'd mate to where the cable housing fits the derailleur?] The accushift levers seem to be 7 speed index only but I got the indexing working. Hopefully that'll work for now.
The Blase derailleur is still perplexing. It appears the stop screw sets against the integrated cam plate. The cam plate has two stop areas. I'm wondering if the frame dropout is supposed to have a ridge that one of the stop area mates against. This bike frame does not.
The Blase derailleur is still perplexing. It appears the stop screw sets against the integrated cam plate. The cam plate has two stop areas. I'm wondering if the frame dropout is supposed to have a ridge that one of the stop area mates against. This bike frame does not.
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#6
Thrifty Bill

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Looks like there is a part of a claw hanger still attached to the backside of that derailleur. It is not attaching correctly for some reason.
I have a Blaze on a bike right now, I'll have to look at it.
I have a Blaze on a bike right now, I'll have to look at it.
#7
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From: Fife Scotland
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
Assuming that the RD is correctly attached then I've had a similar problem. In my case the B screw was not making full contact with the platform provided by the hanger which itself was part of the steel frame. In one instance I solved the problem by adding a new surface to the platform by welding and in another, I replaced the adjusting screw with a longer Allen headed one. In both cases this moved the pulley further away from the sprockets.
#8
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Muscle bike design spec
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From: Sterling VA
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The poor shifting performance probably caused the discounted price I paid for the Lotus.
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#9
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From: Annapolis MD
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there looks to be a little blip of metal in front of the rear derailleur mounting bolt. I don't think that should be there- it may need to be rotated or held in place as you thread the der into the frame.
Would it be too much trouble to bring it to a bike shop and have someone with more experience look at it? It shouldn't cost more than $10-15 for them to monkey with it for a bit, adjust it and have it functional.
Would it be too much trouble to bring it to a bike shop and have someone with more experience look at it? It shouldn't cost more than $10-15 for them to monkey with it for a bit, adjust it and have it functional.
#11
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From: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
The poor shifting performance probably caused the discounted price I paid for the Lotus.
Checked the hanger alignment?
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#12
Senior Member

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All the SunTour RD's that I've come across do not have a top spring (the one that attaches to the dropout). The adjusting setscrew is supposed to set against either the dropout or the #4 mounting bushing pictured below. That bushing is keyed to fit over the dropout. You have to orient that bushing before screwing the derailleur onto the dropout. I saw something to the right of the dropout on your first picture that looked like the tab the setscrew is supposed to move against. My first supposition is that you need to re-orient the bushing.
Another possibility is that the bushing is screws onto the #2 mounting bolt pictured below. It's possible that it's positioned too far out.
Another possibility is that the bushing is screws onto the #2 mounting bolt pictured below. It's possible that it's positioned too far out.
#13
STFD

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From: North Bergen, NJ
Bikes: '80 Windsor Carrera Sport, '02 Specialized Sirrus A1, '10 Giant Escape 2
If that RD is original, the b-screw should bear against the b-screw surface on the hanger. In the second photo, there's a wear spot on the integrated hanger, just where the screw should be touching it, but it's obviously not touching it. instead, the screw is pointing at the the piece of metal that's between the derailleur body and the bike's integrated hanger. Looking at photo#1, it kinda looks like that piece of metal is part of a broken-off claw hanger--the kind of bolt-on hanger that's use on bikes without integrated hangers (part #5 in SBinNYC's exploded-view diagram). It looks to me like this is not the original derailleur, though it could be the same model as was originally mounted (without the broken claw hanger). Assuming I'm right that that's a part of a broken bolt-on hanger, can you take it off? You should be able to do that, then screw it directly back into the integrated hanger, adjust the b-screw, etcetera.
Another bit of circumstantial evidence that this bike has been modified/repaired: I'd expect to see quick-release axles, rather than bolt-on.
If you're still scratching your head, then probably Tom Velo Orange's suggestion to take it to a bike shop is the best advice, though.
EDIT:
Tom Velo Orange mentions there might be a "key". Looking at photos 1 & 2 again, what looked to me at first in photo 2 like the broken-off top of a bolt-on hanger, might actually be such a key, rotated the wrong way.
If that's true, then this can't be the original derailleur. The original derailleur's b-screw obviously bore against the integrated hanger (what you call the "nub").
Hard to be sure, based on these photos, I guess.
Another bit of circumstantial evidence that this bike has been modified/repaired: I'd expect to see quick-release axles, rather than bolt-on.
If you're still scratching your head, then probably Tom Velo Orange's suggestion to take it to a bike shop is the best advice, though.
EDIT:
Tom Velo Orange mentions there might be a "key". Looking at photos 1 & 2 again, what looked to me at first in photo 2 like the broken-off top of a bolt-on hanger, might actually be such a key, rotated the wrong way.
If that's true, then this can't be the original derailleur. The original derailleur's b-screw obviously bore against the integrated hanger (what you call the "nub").
Hard to be sure, based on these photos, I guess.
Last edited by mcgreivey; 12-14-09 at 09:57 PM.
#14
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
It looks like you have to remove a spacer similar to part #4 in the Suntour Cyclone exploded diagram posted on this thread shows.
The derailleur upper body at the upper pivot should mount up very close against the dropout with just enough space to still let it freely swing back as most, if not all derailleurs i have used/encountered do, as the placement of your derailleur stop screw seem to also confirm.
Chombi
The derailleur upper body at the upper pivot should mount up very close against the dropout with just enough space to still let it freely swing back as most, if not all derailleurs i have used/encountered do, as the placement of your derailleur stop screw seem to also confirm.
Chombi
#15
Thread Starter
Muscle bike design spec
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Sterling VA
Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
I installed a different RD so the bike is up and running until I get a replacement 700c wheel.
Thanks all!
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