I have a Colonago TI painted frame. The bottom bracket cup / race has worn out. It seems that
it was put in with RED locktight. The drive side.

I tried the wrench on the ring locking into the slots has the proceedure has it. It would not come
loose. I tried (have been trying) Liquid Wrench every day for 3 days so far, just soaking it. It am
not sure the stuff is penatrating the RED crap.

I recall a guy talking about Methole Achol - it softens the RED stuff a bit. I have not seen any
around???

Heat- putting heat on a painted TI frame. Seems that would just bubble the paint right off.

Tool - What I really would like to find is a tool that will go inside and grab the cup/race thing when
turned anit-clockwise. Some kind of plumbing tool.**********??

This is a 1K - 2K frame. I need ideas.

Note - the slots on the outer ring are geting ripped up. they will not take much more wrenching.
And yes, I have the newer tool not the plier type.

You do know that Colnago uses Italian bottom bracket threading, counter-clockwise to loosen.

OK. I will remember that.

Is that counter clockwise on both sides? It is my drive side that will not come out.
The shop was undoing it closkwise.

Italian BBs use standard (right-hand) threading for both cups: righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. If it's an Italian BB, then you'd loosen counter-clockwise, right after firing the LBS mechanic. An easy ay to tell if it is Italian is to measure the width of the BB shell; Italian = 70mm.

British/ISO BBs use standard/right-hand threading on non-drive side, but reverse/left-hand threading on drive-side. This helps to keep the drive side cup from loosening itself. https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom

OK. I am a 70mm. I slipped a 68 that I had right in there.
SO, " loosen counter-clockwise", that is if I can break the RED stuff.

Actually I saw him try both ways. It would not budge. So knowing the right way helps, but I really think I still have the sticky problem with the red stuff.

Ideas?

Small point. 68 and 70mm refer to the width of the bottom bracket shell of the frame, not the diameter of the holes. The shell width is measured on the underside of the shell. The ISO BB happened to slip into your Italian BB shell's hole because Italian BBs happen to have a wider diameter, as well as a wider length shell.

Is the bottom bracket spindle hollow? You may be able to insert the BB remover and secure it with a quick-release skewer (tight enough so the tool does not disengage, but leave a little wiggle room). Use a wrench with a pipe over the handle for extra leverage. May have to beat the pipe with a hammer and jar the cup loose. Be sure to loosen/remove the skewer as the cup loosens.

Solid BB spindle. Older square type.

All other parts are out now except for the one cup / race. If I remember correctly.
The system is pulled from the right. Pressure (tightening) from the right holds the bearings into the race. It was a sealed Shamino BB that came apart when ai removed it.

However, now I have just the race.

I came across this page: https://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/loctite.htm from a post in an old thread https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/330833-loctite.html

Might be able to get some into threads from the other side, in the shell. I'm guessing the new loctite liquifies the old before resetting.

Well, putting new stuff on it is worth a try. However, I have 1" or wider worth of threads with the stuff on them. the new addition will reach the outer edge, but what about the rest of the locked threads????

I will try some more stuff.

I think the new loctite is suposed to be able to flow around the threads. You probably want the bike laid down on its driveside (be careful about the rear derailleur) so that gravity can help the loctite penetrate from the inside of the shell to the edge.

How worn out is the bottom bracket race? They often outlive several spindles.

I believe I'd try some acetone on the Loctite, being careful to keep it off of any paint.

For regular sized bolts, there are 'easy out' tools to remove broken bolts (after drilling out bolt), by turning them counter clockwise. If something like this is available in a large size (like a plumber might use), it might give you more grip to remove the cup. You could call a plumbing shop and ask if they have such a tool.

However you get it out, I would have the threads chased before installing another BB.

The race face (shinny surface) was eaten away about 1/4" long & 1/8" wide in a spot. It is shot.

This is just what i was thinking about a giant easy out. I would be willing to pay big to save this frame.
Off to the plumbing shop this weekend. Andthen heardare for acidtone and a dropper.

We used large easy outs in the refinery so you should be able to find one.

If you have everything else out of the way, why not try Sheldon Brown's "universal BB cup remover?"

I have high hopes for this after soaking my bike with Liquaid Wrench for a week now.

Red loctite can be removed with(in order of effectiveness) Application of heat over 300F, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Acetone, or by whacking the wrench with a hammer as you turn.

Well, after one week of having the frame on it's side and dripping Liquid Wrench into the threads from the opposit side, it came loose with an average amount of force. Mayby it wasn't Red Lock Tight. But before the soaking, full weight on it would not budge it.