Hello,

I'm trying to remove the bottom brackets from three bike frames. I intend to regrease two of them and put them back into their frames. The other, I intend to swap into another bike frame (you can see the frame here).

What tools do I need to do this?

I think i'll need:

A lockring remover

A shimano bottom bracket tool (or whatever you call it).

Is this it? Is there anything inside the bottom bracket that requires specialist tools?

Here are some pictures of the bottom brackets (unfortunately, my camera decided to focus on the background instead of the foreground. Hopefully someone can make sense of this):













As you can see, the first two bikes have the same setup. The final bike on the other hand is doing something else completely. I had a look here and there seem to be at three different tools that could work.

Finally, I will also need to remove the chains too. Would this work?

Does anybody on these forums know how to take a photo? Those pictures are too blurry to see what specifically you have? Slots, splines, holes, can't see 'em.

PARK
HCW 4 AND 5 for the 1st.
BBT-22 for the last.

IF you get that cheap chain tool, buy 2. You'll probably ruin the first one learning how not to destroy the second one.

like the first poster said, for your last bottom bracket you will need....





and for this first two, this is a HCW 5 but it looks very similar,

On the non-drive (left) side the first two need a lockring/hook spanner. Can't tell what the 1st one needs for the BB cup - too blurry - possibly a pin tool. An adjustable wrench is fine for the 2nd one. The fixed cup (drive side) should be left alone unless it needs to be replaced - do not remove it otherwise. The last one needs a cartridge BB tool.

Changing BB's from one bike to another, especially if you are using different cranks, can be complicated. Go to this page to read about the different types of bottom brackets, and refer to the links near the end of the entry for more info on compatibility, chainline, etc.

More modern chains cannot be reconnected with a chain tool, but rather use a special link. Y0ou need to determine what type you have. https://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Also, you seem to be tackling a lot of bikes without much knowledge or doing much research. You are not at the point where you should be working on bikes for other people or to sell, especially with the approach you are taking. Never mind the liability issues - someone could be hurt, or at a minimum stranded or inconvenienced, if you prep a bike incorrectly.

You are not going to learn bike repair by tearing things apart 1st and then asking a few questions later. It's like getting behind the wheel of a car, hitting the accelerator, and then asking about traffic rules as you approach an intersection. The answer is often not as simple as the question. When you consider doing a task it's best to learn more than just what tool you need or what screw to turn in which direction, but rather how the part works on its own and in relation to others on the bike.

p.s. I suspect even an iphone camera has a "spot focus" function that allows you to pick the focus point. You "decide" how to handle focusing, not the camera.

Don't mean to be so harsh to you on the photos, but this seems to be a recurring theme. I'm assuming you used a smartphone, which has no focus control and no macro capability. You are better off standing back to get sharp focus and blowing them up. Also, don't depend on the phone itself to view the picture. Put them on the computer first. My iPad at least has a large enough screen to see the detail. If you have a camera with variable focus lenses, that's your best bet, but you already know that if you have one.

It is unfortunate that the majority of photos taken these days are done on an iPhone. As with music and dumbed down sound from the iPod, the iPhone has dumbed down photography.

maybe his phone has cataracts?

fumbled the shots..

Let it be noted I dont even try ,

no phone, no pool, no pets.

I have a regular camera but, in these pictures, it kept focusing on the background instead of the foreground. I even set it to the "close up" mode, where I got exactly the same pictures as if I used the "far away" mode. Grrr!

Woah, woah, woah! I'm doing this all myself, for me!

I bought a bike frame from ebay with the intention of buying all the bits for it and doing it myself (this is the frame in the other thread with the swirls on it). When I turned up, the guy had two frames that he wanted to get rid of, so gave me both. He's the best ebayer i've ever worked with!

When it came to buying V-brakes for it, I noticed that I could spend £10 on a new set, or £10 on a "for parts or not working bike". I decided to go with the latter since i'd get V-brakes, a front and rear derailleur, twist grip shifters, handlebars and handlebar stem, brake levers, and a bottom bracket (that may or may not fit).

My sister's getting a new bike, so i'm planning to get the wheels and seat from that.

Overall, i've got 4 bike frames (two aluminium mountain bike frames, a purple steel mountian bike frame and a steel "kid's bike" which was my sister's) sitting in my Dad's garage, and i've only spent £25.

Is there any reason why park tools are so expensive? The BBT - 22 is a lot more expensive than this one, and they both have 20 teeth. The BBT - 22 is four times more expensive that the other one, so do the park tools really last four times as long?

I have yet to see a decent digital camera that does not have a spot focus function, such that when you set it to that the focus is set to the distance of the object at the center of the viewfinder. Macro will not work any better if you are the same distance away. You would have to mostly fill the viewfinder with the object.

Then my comments don't apply. I did not previously have the info you just gave.

You pay more for better quality and warrantee, and sometimes partly for the name. Does not necessarily correlate just to tool life, but also fit, finish smoothness of operations, etc. The Park is indeed pricey, but I would suggest strongly that you not scrape the bottom of the barrel with a tool for which I could find no reviews. There are others available in a moderate price and good user reviews.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...d_i=B00FMPVNLS

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...d_i=B00FMPVNLS

I bought a less expensive version first.
Turns out it doesn't work on some BB's that have a "collar" on the spindle, similar to your NEXT TO last pic.
I had to buy a BBT-22 to work on those.
How much did I save?

i would take the first two (pics are fine AFAIC) to the LBS and have them remove the BB's for you. then buy the Shimano BB tool and three Shimano UN-25 BB's of the right size (online, about 10-20 a piece, if that) and install them yourself.