I know this is a real simple question that can be easily answered by doing a quick google search (which I have been doing) but Im still uncertain. I know that my Bottom Bracket is a cup and cone type of BB. Are the tools to remove this type of bracket universal?

Here are some pictures:





Ive tried to take the BB off with adjustable spanners, a 14" monkey wrench and channel locks and these cups will not budge so Ive just decided to buy the appropriate tools. Someone correct me if Im wrong but I believe these are the tools I need:





When I took my lockring off it came right off without the need of a tool. Is that a red flag? Should I get wrench to tighten that as well when I put my BB back together?

Are you aware the DS BB cup is left hand threaded? Just making sure that isn't your problem. The general tools for cup and cone, square taper bottom brackets are broadly applicable if not indeed universal.

Yes I am aware that the DS cup is left hand threaded. These cups wont budge at all. When I went to my LBS they told I can take off the cups with just an adjustable wrench and some channel locks but I have not been successful. Thanks for the tip though I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out if there was another angle to this. I watched a few youtube videos but I guess I havent found one with a good explanation of what tools are needed.

You may need to rig up a cheater pipe to get the necessary torque. Or clamp the cup flats in a bench vise, and twist the whole frame to unscrew the cup.

You need this for the right drive side. It also will work for what is probably your threaded headset. The second tool you listed will work for the left size. if you have a heat *** then heat up the bottom bracket shell to help break it all loose. Hopefully the threads aren't rusted together.

*edit* due to the politically correct liberals running this site I can't type the three letter G * N word that comes after heat.

Think you can make that plural... "***s"

Heat guns???

That's the wrong tool. Right-side BB cups are always very tight, so the wrench requires a closed end to prevent it from spreading open. The correct tool is something like a Park HCW-4, as shown previously: Park Tool Co. » HCW-4 : Crank and Bottom Bracket Wrench : Crank Tools . The adjustable cup requires an HCW-11... and those cups are always a bear to turn. The wrench has very little area to grip. You could try a bunch of washers and a spacer to hold the wrench flat against the cup with the spindle bolt.

What is the name of this tool?

When you say adjustable cup do you mean the cup on the non-drive side (left side)? I posted a picture of an HCW-11. Is that for this side?

Will the HCW-4 fit on the drive side exactly? You said something like this so Im a little confused.

The fact you may find a wrench to fit the fixed cup does not mean it will work. Even a closed-end wrench can easily slip off under the pressure required to remove a fixed cup. Google "remove fixed cup" to see the various options for dealing with it. It's also not a good idea to put money into a wrench you may never need again. As for the adjustable cup, it's probably corroded - you need to spray on some sort of penetrant and let it sit, then just grab the cup with vise grips if a regular wrench does not work - probably in bad shape anyway so no big loss, as you can replace with a cartridge BB.

Several times I've had to resort to the "bench vise method". I strip everything off the bike, leaving the bare frame. I then remove the fixed cup on the drive side first (easier to get a grip in the BB cup flats). Then remove the spindle and bearings, and then flip the fame over to get a bite on the moveable cup flats.
Usually mess up the paint a little, and it'll make you wish you had 6 hands, but it has worked where wrenches have failed. If you can get a good bite on the flats the frame length gives you a bit of extra leverage.

I have the proper tool(s) as described above. I usually just use a quality 18" adjustable wrench with a long cheater pipe on on the end. Push in on the jaws of the wrench (towards the bottom bracket) to keep it from slipping off, two fingers on the cheater pipe with slight downward pressure running my hand away from the bike slowly... have yet to break a sweat or a part. I've never had to do this, but if I still had problems, I might consider some medium-hard taps on the face of the cup with a soft-face dead blow hammer while turning whatever wrench I chose to use --- much like an impact driver.

those should be the right tools.

But more importantly, why are you trying to take the cups off?

If you want to service the BB, just remove the adjustable cup and pull the axle. You can get the bearings from the drive side out the adjustable cup side. No need to pull the fixed cup out, unless you are replacing the BB.

The HCW-4 will fit most cups closely. Better cups will fill the wrench's "circle" better. Your cups are cheaper, so I'd expect a bit of looseness. It shouldn't matter- once the cup is broken loose, it should come out with a minimum of fuss. It's always that first 1/16th of a turn that's the toughest.

The HCW-11 will grab the adjustable (left-side) cup really well. Back when I was working on bikes professionally, we turned it with a large Crescent wrench that would grab the cup on both sides of the spindle. This took a subtle touch... tough to do while trying not to drop a 10 pound wrench on your foot.

^^^THIS^^^

If you have a LBS (I say "if" as many on BF seem to assume there's a bike shop at every corner) you might ask what they would charge to get everything loose. Not to overhaul the BB, but make it so you can carry on. It might be less than the tools cost. Then, with regular maintenance, you won't ever encounter the same problem again.

+1 this. Unless the bottom bracket needs to be completely replaced, don't bother removing the fixed cup. Clean it in place and pack with fresh balls and grease.

You should also check out Sheldon Brown's site...he has a lot of useful information on how to remove these cups. He even include a homemade tool that really makes removing the drive (fixed) side cup easy...

Sheldon Brown-Bicycle Technical Information

Hey sorry it took so long for me to respond. The reason why I want to take the fixed cup off is because I would like to clean out the grime and grease it. Im overhauling the whole bike. Ive replaced the freewheel, cleaned and lubed the rear derailleur and cleaned the grime off my chainrings. I figured I would be thorough and do the same with the bottom bracket. Egh I know the tools are expensive but I know Im going to get some use out of them. I can service my bike myself and not have to depend on a local bike shop to do something as simple as cleaning out the grime and re lubing all the moving parts. Thats just my logic behind it. I'll say it again Ive tried using adjustable wrenches and I was unsuccessful. Honestly it may be my own fear of stripping the cups so I figured I should have the right tools and some good penetrating oil just for my own peace of mind. Dont want to damage my bike using the wrong tools.

There is no need at all to remove the fixed cup if you are not replacing it. Shops never do so. It can be both cleaned and inspected in place. Use a flashlight and a ballpoint pen or awl to check for pits and uneven wear.

Thanks bikeman. I was under the impression you had to remove the fixed cup to clean and lube it. I watched a few youtube videos for servicing a bottom bracket (not by shop bike owners by regular people like me) and saw the whole bracket being removed so thats where this is coming from. I'll know this for next time.

Youtube videos are notorious for leaving out info or being inaccurate. The parts of a bicycle interact with each other, and videos often don't refer to or provide links to other information that may be related to the problem or procedure. Many people want to show off their tools or don't think about the realities faced by people who don't have or can't afford specialized tools. I would never suggest following a video by "regular people," as being able to do a procedure is not the same as being able to teach it. I found multiple errors and omissions in the first video in a Google search (I noted most of them): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMSZ8Z8i-KY

I suggest in the future you consult sheldonbrown.com or parktool.com blog and use videos primarily for the purpose of seeing the procedure in practice.