My experience is EXACTLY that of Mr. Andrew R. Stewart. On the road bike that I liked, I was "balanced" in such a way that I could lean forward over the bars with virtually NO weight on my arms & wrists. Or, as I said before, I could pedal with my hands an inch above the bars with no strain at all. Going to the levers or drops produced an "unloading" of my back.

Yes, I DO want drop bars for their variety of hand positions. I would prefer a recumbent, but WAF prevents me from considering one. Therefore a "road bike" it will be for me. Until my weight recedes some more, I'm reluctant to consider anything with carbon fiber (I started this year at 285, but now am 260). My goal for 2015 is to hit 230, where I plan to stay.

Frame geometry will be critical in finding that "balance" that I seek, but as Mr. Stewart mentions, it is elusive (and even the bike shop kids don't seem to have a clue). For now, "go ride a bunch of bikes until you find one that fits" may be the best recommendation that I've heard. I certainly don't know enough about frame geometry to even consider the expense of a custom frame without knowing how it would fit. Based on my (bad) experiences with the past few bikes (all of which had compact geometry), I was blaming the frames, but it may have just been a matter of fit, instead.

My pants inseam is 32" (actually, closer to 31, but most pants are only available in 30 - too short - or 32 - slightly long). My shirt sleeve length is 36.5 inches (again 36 is slightly short, but 37 is slightly long). Suit size is typically 50L (I have wide shoulders). I am between 6'2" and 6'3" tall. I know these aren't precise enough for bike fitting, but they're the best I have for now.

FarHorizon

Here's the Kona Unit as I bought it (profoundly uncomfortable):



Here's the Kona after my first attempt at modification (still uncomfortable):



Here's where I gave up & tried to make it a cruiser (still uncomfortable):

One other fit consideration is flexibility. CDR has back issues but has lots of hamstring flexibility, allowing his pelvis to rotate forward and maintain a flat back. The two riders in front are more typical, and have a more vertical pelvis and some spine curvature.

At first glance, your fit dimensions don't seem that abnormal. I'm 6ft with just over 30in pants inseam, and I can find a decent fit on most frames with a 56cm ETT. For those with short legs, compact frames are essential to getting adequate handover. It's not going to be generous, but you can have a cm or two.

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OP, have you done this calculator? Or taken these measurements at least? Any thoughts on why you require so much setback for KOPS? Did the road bike that fit have an unusual amount of setback, or a very slack seat tube angle?

How is your flexibility and overall fitness, and do you have old injuries or physical limitations? The fact that you felt you needed such a rearward hand position on the last iteration of the Kona suggests that there is something going on that should be taken into account.

No, but I will.

On the Kona? Frame geometry. It was made for climbing & descending, not for road riding.

No.

Poor and poor.

Yes. Lower back neurological damage limiting torso flexibility from the bike accident with the failed rim.

Or maybe not. If the Kona frame were both too small for me AND designed with "ultra compact rear triangle" plus a long reach for descending, then perhaps the positions I needed for a cruiser stance on the frame were to be expected. I think that the Kona is probably a great design WHEN USED FOR ITS INTENDED PURPOSE and when fitted to the rider. When BOTH of those things are wrong, though, not such a great match... I don't want to cast any aspersions on Kona (whose bikes I respect). I think that the problems I had with my Unit were due to my own misunderstandings of the bike's fit and purpose.

Got it.

I think you should find a used, entry/mid-range road bike, in the 52 to 56 cm effective seatpost c-t-c range, as big as you can stand over. Preferably with a threadless stem, not too-steep seatpost angle, and sloping top tube. Change stem height/length, add a threadless stem extender, change handlebar type/shape, and adjust saddle position to get your torso to a reasonably comfortable position. Don't spend a ton on it. Don't try to achieve perfect KOPS. Don't expect to do long rides from the start. Don't expect long rides to be entirely ache-free. Wear padded shorts and padded gloves, use padded bar tape.

Then ride, work out, stretch, do yoga, etc to get your fitness up, flexibility up, core strength up, and weight down.

Adjust the bike's position as your own condition changes; for example, even if your lower back flexibility is limited, you can improve your hip flexibility, and gradually lower the bar and move it further from the saddle.

When the time is right, get a real hands-on fitting and buy a different bike or consider having a custom frame made. I wouldn't spend the money on fitting, expensive bike, or custom frame right now, because you are not close to the condition that I presume you intend to achieve.

Also, I wasn't clear on why a recumbent is not an option, but they do solve a lot of fit problems.

Thanks, jyi - that would work.

The only reason a 'bent isn't in consideration is because my wife considers them unsafe. Once she's made up her mind, there's no use in trying to confuse her with facts...

No waf on the bent? From a financial standpoint?

For the cost of the Kona, a Brooks, a Thomson, drop bars, bike levers, bar tape, lay back seatpost, chainring, chain, cruiser bars, red tires, gold chain, etc, you could get a pretty nice used bent, I bet.

Kona was just made for flat bars, drops made the reach long.

You may not even be comfortable on that old aluminum race bike after your accident.

I'm 5' 11" with jeans inseam 32", bike inseam 33". My most comfortable road bikes are 58 cm c-t-c. I can just stand over them, with a bit of touchage. The seatposts are pretty low in the seattube, at most a "fistful" of exposed post. I install 130-140 mm stems, sometimes push the saddles rearward. The bars are from level with the saddle or 4" below (level on the commuter, below on the weekend bikes).

Oh, safety concern on the bent. Bummer.

Maybe take her to chat with some bent riders? I think they are safer, because you tend to hit things legs first instead of face first, and you don't fall from as high. The low racers are a little spooky because you are so low relative to cars, but the more upright sort of bent puts you higher than the average car driver. Not my first choice for weaving through dense car traffic, but that is not a very safe activity anyway.

I'll have to FIND some 'bent riders first. There seems to be few to none around here... OTOH, I just joined the local bike club, so maybe on some of their rides... And there's always Critical Mass but somehow I find it unlikely that she'd be reassured.

Tell your wife to take my word that 'bents are as safe as milk.