ISO: long-cage French derailleur that’ll work with a Huret dropout, e.g., a Huret!

I have lots of C&V bits to trade. Let me know what you’re looking for.

Sending PM. I have a Huret but don't recall if it is long cage. Will check.

Like to trade my Bridgestone Light-Box/Sign for something fun. Prefer a bicycle or frame but I'm open to other vintage rarities. In to japanese CX/MTB stuff. Ride ~59cm/21"

https://i.imgur.com/f3kakKq.jpg

Noop, it's a short-cage Huret. Sorry. You have to keep looking.

If anyone need them I also have what appears to be a decent Huret FD too. I foresee no use for them at this time.

Anyone have a cup and lock nuts for this? I guess I should ask, Is it worth salvaging and can grease be added or cleaned out. Or does it need to be. It was a bear to get off. Is from an old MTB. I have lots of things to offer. Different decals, parts, etc.

https://s33.postimg.org/5o3xg4adr/IM..._180803820.jpg

No cups. Uses lock rings on both sides, sealed bearings within. Bearings can be replaced.

Neat in that you can slightly adjust the chainline, but they tend to be kinda wide.

What are those threaded pieces called. They slip over the shell. In the pic you can see I ruined the left side. I need one of those and two lock rings.

If not I need to figure out a replacement size.

Suntour stopped making those about 30 years ago, so parts are really difficult to source. Plus, they really weren't all that special to begin with.

My guess is you are SOL with regard to replacements.

Buy a new Shimano BB of the same width = done.

Here's a complete Suntour BB. The threaded parts are removable. Lockrings I think are standard english but I can double check. OP needs one of the threaded cup things. And the special tool.

A new Shimano BB costs less than than the tool. I'd sell the parts on ebay and go with the new Shimano.

BR007, what kind of bike did that come out of?



http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TNe8kOV9UG...2B-735022.jpeg

[MENTION=98880]9volt[/MENTION] Unless there were two types I think someone had already changed those special threaded cups to a standard spanner pin type. BB was in tight on one side and I broke a couple pins. I put a pipe wrench on that side and here I am. I have the lock rings but they are a little beat up and those are easier to find.

I could buy another bb but was wondering if these cups were sold individual or if anyone has to trade/sell. Was hoping to retain original bb to match crank. It's an 84' CDale SM-500. The 24/26 wheel one with Mountain Bikes bullmoose. Really just wanted to clean up and put back together but will have to see.

I also have a Campagnolo BB like this but it is short. I may try those cups for fit since it will never get used, but they are stamped Campy and would be odd on a MTB.

If anyone has one or two or a source I am in no hurry. Still have to clean up the rest as time permits.

I have what you seek, removed from a C Dale ST500 years ago and it is sitting in a bin. PM me if interested.

Glenn

[MENTION=147272]Glennfordx4[/MENTION] pm sent

Suntour BB
 

Here are pics of what I have to offer.

Glenn

Perfect Glenn, even is the one for a triple! I saw a photo of a different one online that was Superbe model and was probably for a double. Not sure, but its nice to find the match.

I would carefully remove the seals clean the old grease out ( I found that WD40 & a air compressor work great for this ) and fill with new grease. I just did a set of sealed hubs that were sitting around like this and they feel so much better. WD40 seemed to work better then carb cleaner, brake cleaner and even contact cleaner for this ( had it so tried it lol ). it is in good shape and had no play when I removed it, think it had a Sugino VP set up as a double on it but it is for a triple.

Glenn

^ BR007, if you just need one cup and two rings I'd be interested in the rest of it. No worries either way.

FWIW, Phil Wood mounting rings will fit these cartridges, and are available in a variety of thread specs.

Keep in mind that WD-40 leaves a microscopic film that prevents any lube from truly doing its job form then on, even if cleaned well afterward, very hard to get it clean. Not life threatening on bikes, but in the long run..... ;)

When I was done they were really clean and I use a grease point on my gun to make sure they are packed good when I am done. I have no fear that it will ever be a problem on a low speed part like this.

Glenn

I agree in general but the film is insular and speed is not the only factor, load is more paramount imho and we know BB's take a beating along the way.

I'll let ya know once I get and clean up the one I have. Glenn is going to take care of me but I am trying to find something he needs or wants as well. Mine is pretty rough looking in comparison so I may use his.

Not sure where the citation comes from, what I do know is that it is common knowledge in automotive repair among many expert, well respected, certified ASE Master and FOMOCO Senior Master technicians including myself. So maybe that makes it imho. :)

It would surprise me if true. WD-40 is mostly petroleum distillates that function as propellants, solvents, and (very light) lubricants. The tiny amounts that don't evaporate completely ought to be miscible with bicycle lubricants. Consider how gasoline is a pretty wicked solvent, yet motor oil does its job well despite the constant exposure to it.

We all know of "common knowledge" that gets passed down from bike mechanic to bike mechanic that isn't really true either. Anyways, back to ISO/For Trade... ;)

ISO a set of 600 Arabesque crank arms. Ideally date code E or F (80 or 81)